What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
Chief Brody said:
Man I thought something looked different....I just couldn't place it...dang that firewall looks good...

Given what you said about a satin black, would you still paint the inside of the fenders the same color as the outside or would you go with an all black engine compartment?
Click to expand...

black vs painted firewall will bring many opinions, and sacriledge by some.. I like em either way, depending on what your trying to achieve... painted is usually prefered, but black can look fine, I've done it MANY times..

but I ALWAYS like to see the fenders trimmed in the exterior color...

and I'm guessing your talking about the recessed cowl vent.. eh, just wash it out real good with soapy water and maybe a scuffpad as much as you can reach... I always paint those black.. gives it a depth visually beneath any cowl grating, etc.. and hides everything.. I've even been known to spray 3M undercoating in em...
 
ryoken said:
black vs painted firewall will bring many opinions, and sacriledge by some.. I like em either way, depending on what your trying to achieve... painted is usually prefered, but black can look fine, I've done it MANY times..

but I ALWAYS like to see the fenders trimmed in the exterior color...
Click to expand...

What about new inner wheel wells...paint those too or leave them black? what did factory look like?

And..do you use the same kind of paint as the outside on the engine compartment?
 
if the firewall is going black, definitely do the wells black... I like black wells on 95% of stuff... my blue Chevelle had blue painted wells, but it also had a polished ss firewall...

as to paint, yes the exterior fender paint is fine in the eng compartment.... as to black, well, that's a whole nother subject.. I like satin 90% of the time.. gloss cleans up well, but can look cheesy if not done right.. flat is too hard to keep clean imo..
 
Would the All Metal I bought be a good choice for filling in the rust craters after I use the Rust Convertor?
 
Also, while I am waiting on the Rust Convertor to be shipped, any tips or advice on removing the doors and removing the glass and insides of the doors and tailgate...fenders are both coming off too....:eek1:
 
Chief Brody said:
Would the All Metal I bought be a good choice for filling in the rust craters after I use the Rust Convertor?
Click to expand...



I've never used it over black iron tannite.. not sure how the adhesion would be.. it's also a little on the stiff side for a high flex area like a floor.. but if you kept it thin, just filling pits, you'd probably be ok...
 
Chief Brody said:
Also, while I am waiting on the Rust Convertor to be shipped, any tips or advice on removing the doors and removing the glass and insides of the doors and tailgate...fenders are both coming off too....:eek1:
Click to expand...


well.. then.. pull the hood (scribe the hinges)...... then fenders.. then doors... keep note of where they may have shims on the fenders..

when ya pull the doors, LEAVE THE HINGES BOLTED TO THE COWL!!!! disconnect them from the door.. make sure to scribe a mark around the hinges.. you can also predrill a 1/8" hole thru each hinge before disassembly to line them up later... sometimes thats easier when your gonna be sanding, painting and may lose your scribe marks..... usually i just smear a bit of seamsealer in the hole when all done..
 
ryoken said:
you can also predrill a 1/8" hole thru each hinge before disassembly to line them up later... sometimes thats easier when your gonna be sanding, painting and may lose your scribe marks..... usually i just smear a bit of seamsealer in the hole when all done..
Click to expand...

Ahhh..nice tip :waytogo:

I was wondering how I was going to line everything back up again after paint and not scar it all up.

Thanks,
 
Last edited:
I learned that one back in the resto shop days.. did it on a 63 Wildcat... it can be a pain as your drilling thru multiple surfaces, gotta be careful of snapping bits....... hinge, door jamb AND the backing plate... but it does make it pretty foolproof and simple on reassembly..
 
ryoken said:
I'm gonna need a bigger boat...
Click to expand...

Those aren't thresher sharks like the news story reported...threshers don't grow that big...the only 18 foot sharks I know of are whites and an occasional monster Mako...or 15 foot Tiger....you live in Jersey...how far away are you from the ocean...you fix boats don't you?

"You go in the water....sharks in the water....our shark......farewell and adieu to you fair Spanish ladies"....~Quint :whistle:
 
Also...it's just me...so any suggestions as to how one guy can remove the hood, and what's the best way to scribe it?

Can I get the hood sandblasted?

How should I store it...flat or upright or does it matter....
hood's going to be the worst part of this I bet....
 
I work on this stuff....


10295-review-hatteras-68-convertible-sportfish-hatteras-68-convertible-3.jpg




my house is 3 blocks from the bay, maybe a mile from the ocean... my marina is right on the bay, as the crow flies maybe a 1/2 mile from the ocean... I run up and down from Long Island during the winter repo-ing boats...

my boss, who is a sportfishing purist, says shark fishing is ghey..... :haha: he'd much rather go for 100 lb tuna or even billfish...



usually i'll just scribe with a nice sharp awl... ya don't need to scribe around everything, just key positions, front to back, up/down, what ever ya can get to easy enough... i like to make sure i go pretty hard and physically gouge the steel... i also like to put a mark or 2 around the washers of the mount bolts...

if i know, i'm not doing paint work, i'll use a pencil, sharpie, etc..


I always like to store hoods standing up on the 2 back corners with a rag under each one...

taking it off, dude, call somebody, a neighbor, Polley, someone...

I've been taking hoods off vehicles by myself for DECADES... it's doable but not easy on a K5..


sandblasting.... remember i mentioned heat? you can warp a hood real quick with improper blasting... generally guys will use an alternative to sand... plastic media, walnuts, b soda, etc...

you can do all the edges and under structure cuz it's unitized.. it's the large expanses of sheetmetal with no bends that warp...

there are various routes that can be taken to stripping panels off the truck.... aircraft stripper follow by some strategic blasting and DA-ing being an often used one of mine over the years.....
 
This guy who sandblasted my wheels says he can do it without warping...he does stuff for NASA and DoD he says that is way thinner than that...he didn't say what media he uses...he has a huge system that the government put in the ground for him...big air tanks the size of underground gas tanks...big giant generator looking things that pressurize the tanks...high tech stuff...
 
ryoken said:
my house is 3 blocks from the bay, maybe a mile from the ocean... my marina is right on the bay, as the crow flies maybe a 1/2 mile from the ocean... I run up and down from Long Island during the winter repo-ing boats...

my boss, who is a sportfishing purist, says shark fishing is ghey..... :haha: he'd much rather go for 100 lb tuna or even billfish....
Click to expand...

Nobody ever had to stick a barrel in a tuna to wear him down...:haha:
Montauk isn't that far from Amity....
 
eh, my understanding is most sharking is rather boring.. haulin up dead weight..

and along comes Mr Whitey.....
 
ryoken said:
eh, my understanding is most sharking is rather boring.. haulin up dead weight..

and along comes Mr Whitey.....
Click to expand...

"You yell tuna...everybody's like huh?.. what?....You yell shark...and you got a panic on your hand on the 4th of July"....
~Mayor Larry Vaughn
 
Instead of using the All Metal, I decided to go get some Duraglas instead but he paint shop only had Evercoat Everglass so I got it. I got the rust convertor in the mail today...I will be tackling that this weekend.

Repo is dangerous...I did it many years ago...hope you pack heat...amazing how a shiny .357 with a six inch barrel takes the mean away....those are some nice boats though...you probably repo from people who divorced or was able to afford it and then defaulted...for some reason...:draw:
 
eh, most of the times they know... but we usually just snag em stealth-like anyway... haven't come across any raging shotgun owners....

we got it down... I've got my thieving bag set up pretty good... and we know exactly what to look at/do to get it out of there quick...

ain't a boat made I can't hotwire, or break into... I don't mind when it's a clean newer boat, but when we go get some 20 yr old rat with mechanical issues, it can be ummmm, interesting...



oh, and don't plan on filling over the iron tannite right away... give it a couple days to dry before scuffing/filling...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom