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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

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as long as you can get a kit for it.. devilbiss has always been decent.. tho i'm not familiar with that unit, probably work well rebuilt...
 
I pick up my tailgate Friday from the sand blaster...it will be pure raw steel....:woot:
 
Well.......the tailgate is pretty rusty at the bottom....I am going to try to fix it if I can...if not, I am going to cut my losses and buy one.

I got the tail out today and attempted to use some filler...I let it dry good too...but for some reason it was gumming up my sandpaper and then looking like glass...no matter how often I changed the sandpaper it still kept doing it.

Same on the floorboards...I don't get it...does it got too hot to use filler?

It is freakin hot out there...I didn't finish either one...It got so hot I sweated out and was cramping again...

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Could be too high humidity? Paul will know for sure, but I'm almost positive this was something that came up before.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Could be too high humidity? Paul will know for sure, but I'm almost positive this was something that came up before.

Rene
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I was thinking humidity as well...the Rage Gold did it as well as the Everglass

I can't wait for winter...
 
It's hard enough when you trying to learn how to do this stuff...but when things don't work the way they are supposed to, it's near impossible...:dunno:
 
yeah, humidty will do that.... as with many drying, solvent-evaporating type processes, a fan is your friend... I constantly have a box fan running somewhere in the garage this time of year, blowing across a drying product... it's amazing how much it helps...
 
ryoken said:
yeah, humidty will do that.... as with many drying, solvent-evaporating type processes, a fan is your friend... I constantly have a box fan running somewhere in the garage this time of year, blowing across a drying product... it's amazing how much it helps...
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As you can see I have been doing this under a shade tree....the garage is like a tinder box....can't breathe in there...
the new compressor is great...I have air for days...even with the inline...but I wasn't making any progress today...it's brutally hot and humid here...

I checked out the sandblaster breifly...it works real good! I couldn't do any blasting today though because I couldn't wear long pants or any sleeves....

This has me wondering, what do I gain if I blast the bed out to bare metal versus just scuffing the existing paint and going with it?
 
This has me wondering, what do I gain if I blast the bed out to bare metal versus just scuffing the existing paint and going with it?
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Depends on the quality of the existing paint, and if its compatible with the new paint.

If the existing paint is sound and well attached, then it will make a good primer. I have seen situations where something in the new paint would cause the old paint to bubble up, but don't remember now what type versus what type did that.

Fairly uncommon with automotive paint I suspect.
 
well, it verifies what you have in the end from metal up... as I said, you can just sand it and go to primer if it sands good without peeling, etc... always keep in mind your grits per processes.. if you plan to prime it, you'll want to have a 180 to 220 grit etch to it... you may find if the floor is clean, you can just scuff all the shine off with that, and prime..

but if you find lots of chips, edges, etc that are going thru to raw steel, you may be better off just being aggressive with it... if thats the case, switch out to a nasty grit like 80, strip as much as reasonable with sanders, etc, then just use the blaster for the nook/cranny stuff...
 
Fordum said:
Depends on the quality of the existing paint, and if its compatible with the new paint.

If the existing paint is sound and well attached, then it will make a good primer. I have seen situations where something in the new paint would cause the old paint to bubble up, but don't remember now what type versus what type did that.

Fairly uncommon with automotive paint I suspect.
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what your thinking of is putting lacquer over enamel... enamel is very soft and the lacquer solvents tends to eat in and make it cringe... ESPECIALLY on an open enamel featheredge... matter of fact, in that case, your guaranteed that it'll cringe.. and dealing with cringed areas is a pain...

Cheify, don't forget about your mil thickness.. tho it's doubtful the bed was repainted, always remember the general rule of one paint job under what your putting on...
 
ryoken said:
Cheify, don't forget about your mil thickness.. tho it's doubtful the bed was repainted, always remember the general rule of one paint job under what your putting on...
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The bed and the floor paint are definately one coat....and it don't come off easy...that's the toughest paint I have ever seen....takes a 7" 80 grit wheel to get that stuff off easily...too bad that leaves circular marks....whoever repainted the outside didn't repaint the inside...
 
well, go with a 180 on the orbital, take all the shine off, feather any bad areas and go right to fill primer.. maybe a little zinc on any raw stuff first..
 
ryoken said:
well, go with a 180 on the orbital, take all the shine off, feather any bad areas and go right to fill primer.. maybe a little zinc on any raw stuff first..
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For a big area, I need to think about a paintgun, now that I have a compressor. I sprayed the tailgate with SEM Self Etching and I now have no feeling in the end of my index finger :eek1:

What brand of fill primer do I need to look at?
 
as most in here know i'm a fan of Dupont's Nason 2K... it's about as economical as it gets for a catalyzed urethane primer, fills well, and sands great.. it runs about $110, 120 for a gallon kit.. that makes 1 1/4 gallons.. it likes to be sprayed thru a 1.8 tip gun..
 
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