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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Just how hot is it? Here we have had over 60 days of 100+, 5 inches of rain since January, and the humidity is 75 to 85%. The south east breeze brings the humidity off the Gulf of Mexico.

I can tell that you've never been to Alabama....I think only Georgia has the same kind of miserable heat...I'd take 115 in Arizona any day over 98 in Alabama.

I really do need to get back to Amity....
 
I know what you are dealing with concerning the water. I used to use two 50 gallon air tanks, with a coil of copper tubing in a 20 gallon bucket full of ice between the tanks. That would cool the air, the water would fall out in the second tank and went out the bottom drain. Air from the top of the second tank went to the blaster.
 
I know what you are dealing with concerning the water. I used to use two 50 gallon air tanks, with a coil of copper tubing in a 20 gallon bucket full of ice between the tanks. That would cool the air, the water would fall out in the second tank and went out the bottom drain. Air from the top of the second tank went to the blaster.

I tried the ice before and it helped but it didn't get it all...but I don't have two tanks...it worked a heck of a lot better in April than it does now...there's no way I can sandblast or paint right now considering the water...hard to believe that a dryer costs almost as much as the compressor..:confused:
 
Chief, I assume you have already done all the plumbing tricks. If you are going with an actual dryer, don't forget you will have to run power to it.
The only true dryers other than desiccants, are refrigerated dryers.

And unless you are going to run a really huge desiccant, one of them is not going to help much.
They are fine for getting that last little bit of moisture out of the air, but if you run water into them, they will fill up fast.
If you are getting lots of water out the gun, you need to do some more plumbing first.

First, you need to drain the tank probably several times a day. Be sure to drain it before you start, and once or twice while you are working. Its your first line of defense against water.
This is where an automatic drain is great.

Next, always remember, gravity works.
Water is heavier than air, and if given half a chance will run out of your lines at a lowest point.
You just need to supply lots of lowest points.

For instance, come out of the tank, go up to the ceiling with the air line.
Any water that comes out of the tank or condenses in that part of the line will run back into the tank.

Go along the ceiling a little ways, go down to about waist high, put a "T" there, with the air coming off the side and the bottom to a stub pipe with a drain at the bottom.
Might want to do that a couple more times.

Grab a piece of schedule 80 or heavier PVC about 3 inches in dia. Steel would be better, but we are going cheap.
The bigger the pipe, the lower the pressure rating, so 80 is crucial. Double check the rating, 80 might not be heavy enough.

Mount it vertically on the wall. It needs to be at least 6 feet or longer, but don't let the bottom get too close to the floor, it needs to be easy to open the drain on the bottom.
Let the air come in about 3/4 from the top, and draw the air off from the top.

If possible, you want a bigger line going in than going out. Water separators work by spinning the air and letting the water go to the outside and drawing the air from the middle.

Here, we don't have a good way to direct the air flow when it comes in. I have put nozzles on water hookups like that to get out sediment, but it involved imaginative plumbing that you can't do with air because the pressure is too high unless you are threading steel.
So, we want the air to come in nice and slow so the water will fall out before it heads up.

Any liquid water should fall to the bottom and out the drain.

Finally, where your air hose hooks up to the air line, needs to be on a "T" with the bottom stubbed off to another drain.

Remember almost all the water you are getting out at the gun, is liquid before it gets to the gun, so all you have to do is give it an excuse to go downhill and it will.

If you have a piece of plywood, or an old blazer hood, you might lean it in front of that piece of 3 inch, just in case.......

BTW, you are trying to get the least moist air into that compressor right?

If there was an air conditioner vent you could aim at the intake, or even find a piece of hose larger than the intake that you could run into the house to suck air conditioned air in................

Just know that in most cases that hose is going to transmit the sound of the compressor into the house fairly well............
 
Here is the way it was setup when water was blowing out of the sander...

Air compressor water drain is slightly open constantly allowing water to drain at will
Out of air compressor and straight into a big water seperator
Seperator to hose dropping to garage floor and then routed up about 12 feet over my flag holder on the outside of the garage
Then back down and along the ground and then up again about 12 feet over a tree branch
then through another water seperator
into hose again up and over the truck and back down to another water seperator real near the sander.

Water blowing out both sides of inline sander....can see water when I attach air nozzle to end of hose and just blow out air.
 
I'll bet a lot of your problem is the hose.

Water separators are not perfect. They only take out a percentage of the amount of water that goes in.
The more water in, the more water out.

The water is settling out in the low spots of the hose, and that is creating a permanent water supply for your air.
When you stop, the low spots fill with water. When you start again, the air flow picks up water droplets, and sends them to the separator.
The biggest drops fall out into the chamber and out the drain.
But there is so much water coming in, the whole chamber is filled with swirling drops that are too small to fall out before they go out the exit.

Then those condense together and come out the sander.

Every low point will collect water. Its OK to have them as long as they have drains. The way you have your hose, is actually making things worse.
 
OK....I hope I did something right...I plumbed some black pipe after looking at your diagram....I won't know till a couple days to allow it to dry thoroughly...It better work...that 12 foot of pipe and assorted elbows and connectors cost $118...and it's China made black pipe...

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Well, as far as the water is concerned, its got to help. I'm a little concerned about stress from vibration with it being all steel from the tank, but should last quite a while.

But, $118????

I haven't priced black iron lately, but wow.

Did that include some labor for threading, or just the cost of the pipe?
 
Well, as far as the water is concerned, its got to help. I'm a little concerned about stress from vibration with it being all steel from the tank, but should last quite a while.

But, $118????

I haven't priced black iron lately, but wow.

Did that include some labor for threading, or just the cost of the pipe?

Your friendly local Lowes...just the cost of the pipe and fittings...and a couple of ball valves...a 4 foot piece of pipe was $15...3 of them was $45...brass valves were $15 each...then about $2 for each elbow and about $5 for each tee...
I went 3/4" pipe all the way up to the small riser for the water separator...the article that you posted said all metal was better...use as little rubber hose as you can get away with...
 
the article that you posted said all metal was better...use as little rubber hose as you can get away with..


Quite true. Water condenses on metal a lot faster than on rubber.

I really think you will notice a difference. Most of the water you are getting should be going out that new drain.
Make sure it has some airflow around the pipe. The more the air cools off, the more water will condense out.

And all the water that does condense out, will now have somewhere to go besides your equipment.
Either back into the tank in the first section, or out the new drain in the second section.

If you notice the pipe wanting to move where it is attached to the wall right out of the tank, you may have to add a short piece of hose between the tank and the steel pipe.

The compressor is going to want to "walk" slightly as it runs, and that pipe has not much flex.
It could crack at the fitting.

All the compressors I ever saw plumbed with black iron or galvanized, had either short pieces of rubber hose, or a braided flex line between them and the pipe.

Note "F" on that diagram. Short piece of flexible hose on compressor.....
 
see how it does.. when it runs, put your hand on that pipe over to the wall and see how bad it's vibrating.. you should have a shutoff right at the tank before you go out to the system.. tho I see you have one at the end.. you could add it, just shift over...

ideally you would have piped much farther away from the compressor, but I know it's a compromise... heck if ya need more, just section in another up/down trap...

oh, and make sure to use the small ones right at the tool if it's that bad down there...up here, I can get away with this....




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as soon as I get the rig a roller, I'm gonna do a gut on the dungeon and redo it all with a nice system...
 
That's not going to be fun to undo....I think that I will get a 3/4 inch hydraulic line and then hacksaw that stem that goes directly into the compressor....it will be easier to get out that way...cut it right of center :dunno: Oh...and put a valve on the big compressor hole, then the rubber flex hose....a 3/4 inch ball valve cost $24
 
Dang...how long does it take for thread sealer to dry? It's been 3 days and it's still sticky...soft...

and it was 115 with 75% humidity today...
 
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