cut a 3 sided window around it with a cutoff wheel and bend it back... couple inches x a couple inches... remove said booger, and weld a flanged nut on the back.. close up, weld...
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
I was taking the garbage out and I looked at my fender and I just had to have a peek....I lifted it up stuck the bolts in it and look....with no adjustment yet...all the bolt holes lined up and the bottom looks right and so is the body line...the gap isn't right yet, but I just wanted to see it on there...
I know better now to look in the parts yard first...
I know better now to look in the parts yard first...
OK...I'm gearing up for pulling off the quarters this weekend...
Any reason to do them one at a time or take them both off at the same time?
Any reason to do them one at a time or take them both off at the same time?
in a case like yours, I'd pull em both off...
Not trying to get ahead of myself, but how much adjustment do these quarters have in order to be able to straighten the rear door gap?
Seems like you would notice it if the rear of the qp's were higher than the front?
well, not a ton.. that's why i asked about the rear mounts being done.. I'm thinking your smashed tailpan may have had a bit to do with it..
first thing to do is get the new tailpan in.... leave mount bolts loose. also leave all qrter and well bolts loose.. you want that slop to help adjust before you lock the gap in correctly.. than you'll go back in and tighten all the bolts...
first thing to do is get the new tailpan in.... leave mount bolts loose. also leave all qrter and well bolts loose.. you want that slop to help adjust before you lock the gap in correctly.. than you'll go back in and tighten all the bolts...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Just to try and show how useful this thread is, its third from the top for views! So for every ig-no-ray-moose that posts some silly question(like myself) many other folks are getting excellent useable information out of this thread! Good job fellas!
Do I need to prime and paint that tailpan? It's just EDP coating as far as I can tell....
you don't have to, you can put some fill prime on/under it when you prime the qrters.... but you can hit the sammich area and tough to reach spots with a bit of 2k as added insurance if you like before install.. you just may be grinding out your spotweld areas to weld.. as long as you catch an arc on a drilled hole, a poorman's spotweld will usually burn RIGHT thru that EDP... but well ground/cleaned welding areas is always a good habit to be in...
it's vitally important that after you prime that you go under and seamseal the forward edge of the tailpan to floor... it WILL be directly blasted with road goo...
it's vitally important that after you prime that you go under and seamseal the forward edge of the tailpan to floor... it WILL be directly blasted with road goo...
Is there welding to be done on the tailpan? for some reason I thought it was bolt-in? I know the floor gets welded to it, but does it get welded to the frame or anything?
it's bolt in on the corners, 4 at each end iirc... than spot, or end welds along the floor, year dependent.. yours may be spot welds in about 1/2" on top... and a big fillet weld at the c-pillar...
What exactly is a fillet weld...I've Google'd it but rarely shows anything automotive with a fillet weld...
it's generally a full bead in the corner on 2 perpendicular plates iirc...
Also, is there anything I can get to help make my vertical spotwelds look better...the ones at the door jamb?
I saw a tool on Eastwood which looks like it works on a horizontal surface....but not sure about a vertical
I saw a tool on Eastwood which looks like it works on a horizontal surface....but not sure about a vertical
you've totally lost me... technically, you wont be spotwelding at all, it's actually a roset, or plug weld... a spot welder looks like this...
a poorman's spotweld is just something i started calling a sheetmetal version of that weld a long time ago...
a poorman's spotweld is just something i started calling a sheetmetal version of that weld a long time ago...
http://www.eastwood.com/mig-spot-weld-kit-eastwood.html
some kind of special tip for your mig welder.....
some kind of special tip for your mig welder.....
sheeshish friggin, what will they........ 
the clamps wont do anything for ya in the areas your doing.. i prefer more than 1/8 starter hole to puddle in.. i guess the tip could be helpful for a novice...
they really shouldn't be calling it that imo.. a spotweld is transfered from the 2 outsides of the panels...
the clamps wont do anything for ya in the areas your doing.. i prefer more than 1/8 starter hole to puddle in.. i guess the tip could be helpful for a novice...
they really shouldn't be calling it that imo.. a spotweld is transfered from the 2 outsides of the panels...
sheeshish friggin, what will they........
the clamps wont do anything for ya in the areas your doing.. i prefer more than 1/8 starter hole to puddle in.. i guess the tip could be helpful for a novice...
they really shouldn't be calling it that imo.. a spotweld is transfered from the 2 outsides of the panels...
Yeah...I can see it helping keep your hand steady...and every weld the same distance could give better uniformity...but...I ain't gonna spend the bucks and wait on it...if I could get the tip local I might consider it...
that's what your other hand/arm is for, bracing and steadying the gun hand... it's about as easy a weld as it gets... center, puddle circular out..
