What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
generally you'll have a bit of room with the tops.. but that being said, you can never trial fit/test fit parts too much... how convenient that is, is another story...
 
It's been a washout here today...I can't get to the passenger side in the garage either...so I didn't get to try anything...the only thing that worries me about possibly bending the quarter is how perfectly it lined up and the tailgate was dead on perfect at the top...I would hate to mess up the tailgate alignment...
 
Never mind the previous post...I got liquored up and went out there anyway...as you know Chief Brody is afraid of water so...

Anyway...I completed Captain's order number one....set the bottom gap to 1/4 inch..and set the rear lower vertical gap to 1/4 inch....done!

Success...I even greened it so you can see the gap better

DSC_00050001.JPG

DSC_00060002.JPG

DSC_00070003.JPG

DSC_00080004.JPG
 
unbolt the back 2 body mounts on that side... make sure the body mounts at the B and A are tight... open tailgate... loosen driverside tailpan body mount a bit to allow for movement... block of keel timber on a floor jack under right, outer, tailpan section....

you will need to move it double what it will need... you'll also need to "set" it, by sledge/block of wood/large shark carcass to the floor/B-post body mount area..

you may need to shim those back mounts... and we'll hope the gate gap isn't bad.. generally it wont affect that gap, but the in/out a bit...
 
ryoken said:
unbolt the back 2 body mounts on that side... make sure the body mounts at the B and A are tight... open tailgate... loosen driverside tailpan body mount a bit to allow for movement... block of keel timber on a floor jack under right, outer, tailpan section....

you will need to move it double what it will need... you'll also need to "set" it, by sledge/block of wood/large shark carcass to the floor/B-post body mount area..

you may need to shim those back mounts... and we'll hope the gate gap isn't bad.. generally it wont affect that gap, but the in/out a bit...
Click to expand...

I don't know how hard a hit I will be able to give the quarter at the B Pillar without doing some damage.....and hope that it doesn't wrinkle / torsion anywhere else..
 
I'm liking the large shark carcass option...of course if it were a great white, all the better!
 
ryoken said:
unbolt the back 2 body mounts on that side... make sure the body mounts at the B and A are tight...
Click to expand...

Remember that on the 1974 the "B" mount position is behind the B pillar and in front of the wheel tub...
 
ryoken said:
jack it up and see what it does for the gap....
Click to expand...

I suppose I can use that shark skin as 40 grit sandpaper....it would only be appropriate that I block the entire truck with shark skin....
 
So I am looking a little ahead...at paint...I call up the local DuPont dealer and ask him how much for a gallon of Chromabase or Premier in my color and he looks and says that they only have that color in Nason...he is calling DuPont directly to see if they can crossmatch...but I haven't heard anything yet...

How can you have the pigment for Nason and not the higher grades???:dunno:
 
I just shot premier a couple weeks ago on a Formula hull.. like this one, metallic..



3022703_0_20101110080411_1_0.jpg




pretty nice stuff, but pricey cuz it's a catalyzed base...

I've been using chroma for YEARS, it was THE standard for awhile... the copper on the K5 is chroma..

check into Glasurit.. bet the farm their high end base has a formula for it...
 
ryoken said:
I just shot premier a couple weeks ago on a Formula hull.. like this one, metallic..

pretty nice stuff, but pricey cuz it's a catalyzed base...

I've been using chroma for YEARS, it was THE standard for awhile...

check into Glasurit.. bet the farm their high end base has a formula for it...
Click to expand...

The Glasurit was almost $700 a gallon....:eek1:
 
My thought was on the Chromabase Premier...because it dries much quicker or you can make it dry quicker and if I shoot this in less than perfect conditions quick drying might be an asset?

Also, since my primer is buff, nearly the same color as the paint, the covering power of the Premier would almost certainly allow me to get full coverage with a minimum film thickness????:dunno:
 
wow..... I figured $500 to 575.... :doah: been a long time since I used Glasurit.. sweet freakin paint line man..

oh well, shoot the Nason, no big... a bunch of good clear over it, thoroughly dry products under it, your golden.... :pimp:
 
ryoken said:
wow..... I figured $500 to 575.... :doah: been a long time since I used Glasurit.. sweet freakin paint line man..

oh well, shoot the Nason, no big... a bunch of good clear over it, thoroughly dry products under it, your golden.... :pimp:
Click to expand...

So you think Nason base with ChromaClear high solids would be just as good?
 
Could I spray Glasurit over Dupont Nason primer? Voids warranty, but are there chemical considerations?

I've heard terrible things about Nason base....like having to spray 4 coats and then still seeing through it when it dried...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom