What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
glazing putty on all that mud work, wetsand 180 to 220, reprime...
 
yup, he's getting ahead of himself... at this point, everything should be brought thru a point where it can be final sanded with 400 for paint....

when you have a panel that you think is maybe ready for paint prep, start wet x-blocking it with 400... garden hose and a squeegie.... keep the block flat, work at 45 degrees to the body lines and block the pee out of it..

occasionally, squeegie it, and look.. dull is good, shiny are low spots.... you more than likely will have AT LEAST one spot prime app for small bare steel spots that may appear here or there....

but that should be your main concern is making sure the panels are ready for paint.... no point in painting a frame if your gonna get primer overspray and wetsand spooge all over it... than you can move on to painting black, trimming parts for install, the firewall and jambs, etc...
 
Just got back from the DuPont dealer...got another gallon of Nason 2k...I forgot about the wheel wells and one of the fenders...
I normally pay $111.00 for primer and activator...today it was $135.00...said there was a price increase...

Got some 220 wet/dry and some 400 wet/dry...boy, is this going to be fun....

My glaze putty is a little thick...think it is still ok? don't know how it got that way sitting on a cool dry shelf...

Don't know how I am going to keep from sweating all over it too...and sweat doesn't want to come out easily...

For a newb, how many full days should this phase take? :dunno:
 
Chief Brody said:
Just got back from the DuPont dealer...got another gallon of Nason 2k...I forgot about the wheel wells and one of the fenders...
I normally pay $111.00 for primer and activator...today it was $135.00...said there was a price increase...

Got some 220 wet/dry and some 400 wet/dry...boy, is this going to be fun....

My glaze putty is a little thick...think it is still ok? don't know how it got that way sitting on a cool dry shelf...

Don't know how I am going to keep from sweating all over it too...and sweat doesn't want to come out easily...

For a newb, how many full days should this phase take? :dunno:
Click to expand...

watch out for the glazing putty, remember what happened last time you tried to use a dried out filler... it gets that way if not sealed real well.. try stirring it up...

this will be your true test of patience, this is THE worst time you could pick to slack and not pay attention to detail...... all the goofy sayings apply right here.. "your paint is only as good as your prep" yada, yada..

it could take you 40, 50 hr's to final prep these panels... plan on AT LEAST a few hr's per panel for sanding... and that's not counting any reglazes, spot primes, etc you have to do to get to that final good 400 sand...
 
also.... keep in mind that you will be trimming out your door jambs, fenders, etc so you will be doing a bit of final sanding on those edges again.... so it doesn't have to be a perfect wetsand at this point at certain edges, but sanded enough that you can see that your going to have a good surface with a bit more sanding.. meaning no sandscratches, pits, etc....

for a noob, I would suggest having everything perfect.. than trim and do a bit more sanding than say, if I was prepping/looking at it... no offense intended.... :whistle:
 
Should I wetsand inside and out or just the outside? Firewall? Dash?
 
When you paint the inside and "trim" it out...do you sand the outer edges again where the paint hit?

Do you suggest marking the doors / tailgate and removing them in order to paint the inside? It's hard getting to everything with them on the body...
 
Chief Brody said:
Should I wetsand inside and out or just the outside? Firewall? Dash?
Click to expand...

Don't worry about any trimmed, inside area at this point... once you final sand the exposed painted section to a perfect 400, yes, than you can go in a sand/scuff it... once again, no point in sanding that if your going to be spot priming the exposed area again, etc...

so a final good surface on the exposed, than scuffpad/sand the trim areas... trim part, let dry... install part.... resand the exposed area with 400, removing the majority of overspray from the trim out...... alky hall, mask, realky, seal, squirt tan, dance jig...
 
Do you sand between base coats? Would I expect to do that on the interior or not...

and I don't need a squirt tan...I'm sporting a heck of a welders tan...
 
Chief Brody said:
When you paint the inside and "trim" it out...do you sand the outer edges again where the paint hit?

Do you suggest marking the doors / tailgate and removing them in order to paint the inside? It's hard getting to everything with them on the body...
Click to expand...

if i where you, i'd trim it with the doors on, fenders off... you can get to the all the door stuff easy with no fenders on... i'd trim it all out... trim the fenders and hood off the vehicle, at the same session shoot the firewall, dash and door jambs, don't shoot the outside doors, qrter,s, tailgate, etc... than assemble the truck, sand and shoot the truck exposed panels..
 
Chief Brody said:
Do you sand between base coats? Would I expect to do that on the interior or not...

and I don't need a squirt tan...I'm sporting a heck of a welders tan...
Click to expand...

the only time you sand base between coats is if you f*cked up your prep and see imperfections that you missed.. no, if your going over a perfect surface, you shouldn't really be sanding between coats... if say, toward the end of painting, you get a "dry coat", or some metallic motteling, etc, yes, you can let it dry a bit, and wetsand it... continue painting when done... DO NOT RECLEAN WITH ALCOHOL!!!!!!!
 
am I just using the glazing putty on the filler areas IF it needs it, or do you automatically just squeegee a coat on there to seal it?

Speaking of sealing...am I using a sealer or not?
 
Chief Brody said:
am I just using the glazing putty on the filler areas IF it needs it, or do you automatically just squeegee a coat on there to seal it?

Speaking of sealing...am I using a sealer or not?
Click to expand...

it's generally a good idea to drag it over any entire area that has mud... you'll see as you sand.. the majority will be removed, but it's not only pinholes and scratches your filling, but you'll be surprised how many low spots you find once you wet block it... if you block it and some spots are still low, you can reapply.. BUT, keep it minor, if it needs substantial, consider redoing the mud work...

I know your hating all this, but try to stay the course...
 
oh, sealer... that's totally up to you... 95% of the cars I shoot, I don't seal... in a booth, feeling spendy, sure, I may...
 
ryoken said:
it's generally a good idea to drag it over any entire area that has mud... you'll see as you sand.. the majority will be removed, but it's not only pinholes and scratches your filling, but you'll be surprised how many low spots you find once you wet block it... if you block it and some spots are still low, you can reply.. BUT, keep it minor, if it needs substantial, consider redoing the mud work...

I know your hating all this, but try to stay the course...
Click to expand...

I am just dreading it because of the torn rotator cuff and bad back...this is all by hand...and arm...and shoulder...
 
ryoken said:
oh, sealer... that's totally up to you... 95% of the cars I shoot, I don't seal... in a booth, feeling spendy, sure, I may...
Click to expand...

I got a pretty good setup to not seal I guess...I'm not trying to hide multi colors or dark spots
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom