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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

just need to watch and realize how much your putting on...

disciplined spraying techniques are key to good painting... not being lazy with gun technique... staying parallel to panels as opposed to arcing the gun, trigger control, etc..

as you just implied, crowns, bodylines, etc tend to get wetter, heavier coating.. often cuz it's getting hit from multiple angles, and pronounced...

this brings up a topic I am still not sure of....the trigger....is it ok to use less trigger and bump here and there or is it always wide open all the time and you just move closer or further away?
 
this brings up a topic I am still not sure of....the trigger....is it ok to use less trigger and bump here and there or is it always wide open all the time and you just move closer or further away?


the only time you'll partial pull the trigger, beyond it's just air detent point is when dorking around in door jambs and such... generally, 95% of the time, it's a full pull, just air detent, or off... for main panels, how your paint lays out is based on distance from panel and speed..
 
the only time you'll partial pull the trigger, beyond it's just air detent point is when dorking around in door jambs and such... generally, 95% of the time, it's a full pull, just air detent, or off... for main panels, how your paint lays out is based on distance from panel and speed..

I'd like to actually watch somebody paint a whole car....just to see the speed and stuff...
 
When welding floor pans to the rocker panels how you preserve the weatherstrip lip on the rocker panel? It looks like the floor welds right to it.

I don't know on that...I'm sure these other guys do...seems I remember Ryoken removed his or something, maybe modified the way the seal went on or something...
 
i'll have to peak at your material data sheet at the time.. most products have recommendations... obviously speed technique can't be given, but often they'll give you gun pressures and sometimes distance...

there are MANY variables to it.. what color.. mettalic? what kind metallic? lacquer? clear vs single stage? what viscosity and pressure?

we used to play games and try to match the various manufacturers finish and orange peel, from Benz to Dodge.. :haha:
 
i'll have to peak at your material data sheet at the time.. most products have recommendations... obviously speed technique can't be given, but often they'll give you gun pressures and sometimes distance...

there are MANY variables to it.. what color.. mettalic? what kind metallic? lacquer? clear vs single stage? what viscosity and pressure?

we used to play games and try to match the various manufacturers finish and orange peel, from Benz to Dodge.. :haha:

Oh...I got that DeVilbiss Finishline gun with 1.3 - 1.5 - 1.8 tips...great buy...it's heavier than my startingline gun
 
perfect.. use that for all your paint work, and you also have a primer gun..
 
perfect.. use that for all your paint work, and you also have a primer gun..

couldn't believe the price for the set...just because it didn't have a cup...but I like the plastic throwaway cups better and they are cheaper...plus you can have a full cup loaded on standby without having to buy a high dollar metal one...
 
yeah, I haven't made the switch yet.. I've contemplated it.. and have used a few throwaway systems in the marina's.. but haven't at home yet... just stubborn and I own like 9 guns...
 
yeah, I haven't made the switch yet.. I've contemplated it.. and have used a few throwaway systems in the marina's.. but haven't at home yet... just stubborn and I own like 9 guns...

the cool thing is the set of cups comes with plastic adapters to fit the different styles...I'm talking Harbor Freight...not DeKups...
 
hmmm, i'll have to look at em...


nothing like loading up a pressure pot with a couple gallons tho!


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last time I ran mine was the K5 frame.... now THAT'S painting! :haha: it also's get stupid expensive in a hurry... :doah: :whistle:
 
hmmm, i'll have to look at em...


nothing like loading up a pressure pot with a couple gallons tho!
last time I ran mine was the K5 frame.... now THAT'S painting! :haha: it also's get stupid expensive in a hurry... :doah: :whistle:

what's the pot life in that thing?
 
same as any other condition once catalyzed... temp and agitation are the things that affect pot life...
 
I wonder if the city will try to do anything if I throw that booth up and let it stand...or should I build it in 8 foot sections that can be fastened together fairly quickly?
 
Chief, I have used this stuff to build my greenhouse.
Its darn tough.
I have used the 6 mil for lots of things. I think I used it on the greenhouse a couple of times. Maybe all the time, I will check and see if I have a box left.

I know I always used the heaviest they had at my local store.

Now I see they have 8 mil.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202184267


And 10 mil!
That stuff should stand up to anything short of a bullet.

http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Drop...202184269/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053

Prices look awful high, but that is for 20X100 foot rolls. They sell smaller.

Be warned that when they say transparent, its relative.
The 2 mil stuff you could recognize someone through.
The 6 mil is best called translucent.
I can only imagine what 10 mil is like. Light will shine through, but no images.

Also, be warned that sunlight will destroy it eventually. My greenhouse coverings were good for 5 months or so, until I took them off.
And seemed pretty good even then.
But they were not reusable.
 
I have know business commenting here because lack of knowledge, but it crossed my mind. Could you just throw some white paint on the plastic sheeting (at least the roof) to reflect sunlight and extra heat?
 
sure.. on the outside.. but is it worth the effort and paint... obviously it wont flex for sh*t, thus it would want to start peeling pretty quickly... not to mention trying to paint plastic thats moving in and out some.. airless commercial sprayer and a cheap 5 gal pail of white might be ok... just douche the whole outside...
 
For heat and light reflectivity, I would suggest building it out of the plastic I suggested, then grabbing a silver wallyworld tarp and throwing over the top.

They are cheap and disposable.
 
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