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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

how is the cage in the channel, yet you have some nut welded in there? take a pic when you open it up...

make sure stuff is ground clean, turn the welder all the way up, hold it close and nuke it...
 
The nut drops in that innermost square...then the first metal flap comes down...I can tack that, then the floorboard flap on top of that...
I didn't remove anything from the area except the stripped cage nut...



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well, that window needed to be longer first of all... can't exactly weld a nut when ya can only get to the top of it.. but whatever you think is gonna work..
 
Get a 27/64" drill bit, 1/2"-13 TPI tap and a small chunk of 1/2" plate and make the nut yourself. It'll be way cheaper than getting a machine shop to do it.
 
I took it to a high performance engine and machine shop today....he said there's "no need for me make a new one, a heli-coil will be every bit as strong if not stronger". What do you all think?
He didn't even charge me anything:

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Been busy today...too busy and messy to stop to take pics...

I sand blasted the drivers side quarter jamb and the passenger side quarter to rocker gap.

Cut the floor open and dropped the square nut in the cage...haven't welded it back yet.

I slathered on some Dynaglas which I am letting dry overnight.

I put the driver's side fender back on...it almost looks like the door to fender gap is almost to big...won't know till I cut down some of that dynaglas and see the whole door...the door to fender gap is even, I can say that for sure...it's just big.
 
I dunno...what do you all think about the gap? Is that about normal?

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Look how nice and even my hood is now. It flows right into the fender :waytogo:

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is the fender all the way back? might get a tad more by loosening/moving/tightening the rad support on that side...
 
is the fender all the way back? might get a tad more by loosening/moving/tightening the rad support on that side...

I can probably let it back a little. I had to tug on it with a tow strap to get the front fender to core support bolts to line up...so it is kind of "spring loaded".

If I loosen the rear fender bolts it will probably go back.

How big should that gap actually be?
 
well it's not a new car, they where generally in the 1/4"+ range... how is the other side? you should shoot for similar...
 
well it's not a new car, they where generally in the 1/4" range... how is the other side? you should shoot for similar...

The other side is gonna be trouble. I put the tow strap to it to open up the upper door to fender gap, but it's nowhere near as big as the driver's side.

After I got the front mount bolt out, I jacked up the body right beside the mount....it actually made the rear gap at the upper part of the door wider.
Not what I needed...I thought it would close the rear upper gap and open the front upper.

I may need to loosen the core support on the passenger side and pull it forward if I can.
 
I will be working on the passenger gaps tomorrow till I get them acceptable.

Then when I get that I will sand the drivers quarter jamb. What is the best thing to use on that?
I am betting that the DA would just tear the sandpaper on the outer part of the surface and not hold up well?
 
Been working all day again...loosening fenders, core support...

I have got the driver's side as good as I can get it.


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After spending over 3/4's of today on the passenger side I gave up...I am about ready to just drop and start crying....I can't do anything with it. I've got it as good as I can get it for now but there's not much more I can do. I just can't get it to do what I want it to do. That side is worse than the drivers side ever thought about



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the ds looks ok...


is that ps all at the lower back corner of the door?
 
the ds looks ok...


is that ps all at the lower back corner of the door?


Yeah...kind of...with the bottom of the door completely even the rear back gap is just too tight...having some in/out alignment issues too...I can get it real close but not close enough...

I shimmed the back to close the top gap on the rear of the door...it did that.

The front fender is out further than the door in the very middle...can't seem to fix that either.
 
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