looks good.... 
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
All of this because of an expansion joint....
That dynaglass is a hard workout. Good job! 
That dynaglass is a hard workout. Good job!
I feel better that I used the dynaglass than the Rage Gold....the dynaglass is waaaaaaaaaayyyy stronger...it is a hard workout by hand sanding and even with the pneumatic sander...even with 40 grit...you have to sand a long time to cut it down....
If it sticks and doesn't fall off, I am not worried about it a bit...
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I complain, but I just looked and this thread began in March 2011....so...it's officially only about two years...Wow! Seems like forever....
noob.. I'm double that! 
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is this getting the mouldings back on? you need to mock/fit them up next.. BEFORE it get's painted...
it's a fresh install is it not? no holes right? run some full length masking tape down the length of the body line.. tape the moldings on.. outline in pencil.. figure where clips are going.. drill holes, prime, paint...
What 2 sided tape do you use for putting the trim back on?
I assume 3m of some sort but what size/ color?
I assume 3m of some sort but what size/ color?
his should be clips...
Pros / Cons clips vs stickies? 
tape is much easier to install when doable.. not quite the "mechanical" fastening of the clips..
can the whole moulding set be installed with tape, or do you have to use clips in certain locations?
I don't know.. the factory mouldings on that would have been all clips, no tape... and no place for the tape to stick, the mouldings are hollow..
They make a plastic clip that has a sticky back instead of a post that fits into the hollow molding.
My concern was moisture / rust of sticky vs clip
I would do the post/acorn nut at either end of the doors.. and than try to get at least one on each fender and qrter.. but that's me...
