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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

My passenger seat and roll bar. Picked up from the sandblaster, I quickly Ryoken Green'd them, then primer, then Hot Rod Black catalyzed paint.

Two coats of Black.

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I thought so too...it is hot as a firecracker here so I used a lot of slow reducer and it worked. I put the second coat on heavy and I initially had runs but they all flowed out...it still isn't dry yet...It probably takes a lot longer to dry to touch if you use slow reducer.
The seat is fine...remember...they only part you ever see is the legs / brackets///and those look good too. The springs and insides of the seat look a little rough but they now have zinc. primer and paint on them and they will be hidden by new foam and new seat covers.
 
be careful exceeding 15% or so reducer, it can cause issues...
 
just a warning... it's not a guarantee, but I have seen various sh*t happen from product to product and app to app...

just cuz that product says "slow" doesn't mean it's gonna slow it down more and more as you add more.. it will to some extent, but what hardener and % are equally as important.. it will level better, but that's also a function of the thinner viscosity too...
 
I remember the basecoat I sprayed dried quick...like in 10 minutes...

I am not used to it taking this long to dry before I can move it back into the garage...
 
base always dries fast..

wet, shiny, catalyzed apps can be dry to touch in anything from a 1/2 hr to 6ish depending on the above mentioned things, temp, day of the month, paint gods, etc...
 
this reminds me that I have lots of "details" to take care of and if I have rotator cuff surgery that will abruptly stop....I want to at least be able to get the Blazer back from paint and get the trim installed...hmmm...maybe I will put the surgery off till beginning of winter.
 
I have been "fingerprint testing" on the seat in places that will be hidden by upholstery. Some spots are dry...others that I double coated and douched on with the paintgun set to jet are not dry yet.
Lots of places I had to dial the paintgun to spot in order to hit places on the seat frame I couldn't reach
 
just a reminder, always remember when painting anything, there is usually a best "order" in painting it.. whether the sheetmetal of a K5 or a seat frame...

From someone who painted dozers and cement mixers for a living, your always best to get paint to the most difficult, even jet needed, area's and save the easy, full and top areas for last..

not douche everything with the wide fan, than "oh, I need to get at that, let me jet spray it"
 
right.. when I would paint mixers, dozers and such, the first thing you do is get down under the frame, and jet spray up in to all the difficult areas before moving outward and hitting big, easy areas...
 
Should I watch Jaws or Dirty Harry tonight?:whistle:

I watched "Dirty Harry" and "Magnum Force" last weekend...man I had a great time watching those....the "Enforcer" is next...
the old cars...the .44 magnum....and the best moment was when Harry gets his leg injured and the doctor is about to cut his pants leg off and he says "I don't think so...at $29 dollars I will take these off"....

imagine....expensive slacks only $29....
 
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