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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

What's the best way to get the paint out of inside corners where a DA sander won't reach? Right now I am stripping the bed. With a fresh sanding disc, I can get the edge into these corners, but that edge wears out quickly. Later I will need to strip areas where the sander cant even get to. How should I go about that?

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The plan is to strip the interior, to bare metal on the floors and interior wheel wells. And to take it down to the original coat of paint on the sides and other areas that don't see foot/cargo traffic, and then use a truck bed liner on the whole interior.


Here's what I used....



I don't remember what that blue disc is specifically called, but it's a looped-type coated disc.... Very stiff and has good sharp edges initially. I was able to get all of the convoluted sections on my floor cleaned with it, even the curved sections at the very edges.

From what Paul said, you still need to DA it afterwards for the correct paint prep finish... But that blue disc will get you to bare metal without blasting or chemical strippers.


-G
 
Here's what I used....



I don't remember what that blue disc is specifically called, but it's a looped-type coated disc.... Very stiff and has good sharp edges initially. I was able to get all of the convoluted sections on my floor cleaned with it, even the curved sections at the very edges.

From what Paul said, you still need to DA it afterwards for the correct paint prep finish... But that blue disc will get you to bare metal without blasting or chemical strippers.


-G

Is that a 4" grinder you have it mounted on? I know what kind of disc you are talking about, they're like the 3M surface conditioning discs with grit embedded in them. I'll check MSc and see if they have them for a 2" roloc.
 
I remember that I resorted to hand sanding with folded paper in hand....and in the driveway with the hot sun beating down on that metal....now it is all covered in carpet :doah:
 
I'll be starting on the top today. I am going to put casters on 2x4's and bolt them to the bottom so's I can wheel it in /out of the garage
 
Chief take lotsa pics (as I know you do). There is a lot of good tech on metal repair here but i have a top for my 73 that needs some tlc, so looking to you to rock it out as expected and post up a bitchen finished product.

Thanks for all you and paul have given here it looks amazing.
 
Is that a 4" grinder you have it mounted on? I know what kind of disc you are talking about, they're like the 3M surface conditioning discs with grit embedded in them. I'll check MSc and see if they have them for a 2" roloc.

Yep, that's a 4" grinder...

I think Norton and 3M both make that style of surface conditioning disc. Shouldn't be too hard to find. The secret is not to lean into it too hard or you'll eat it up in a hurry. Just use light pressure and let the pad do the work.

I was removing undercoating, so it helped to use light pressure. Otherwise the rubberized coating got all hot and gummy and was 10x harder to remove.


-G
 
A funny thing happened on the way back from the parts store....

I went to get some bolts and stuff to mount the casters and boards to the fiberglass top. I locked the garage door.

When I got back I pulled in the drive and pushed the garage door opener button.

I forgot I locked it.

I watched the garage door fold almost in half...inward...where the blazer is....

The motor did not stop like it always did with my old garage door opener. I had to run into the house and around to the garage and pull the emergency release.

It did not do an damage to the Blazer.

BUT...I have never seen anything like it....I spent all day straightening and bracing the garage door and getting it strong enough to where I felt ok opening and closing it.

My old opener would just stop and blink...:dunno::dunno::dunno::dunno:
 
Yeah...it was scary...new door is $1000

I need to look at the opener and see if there is an adjustment

I always lock the garage door and I don't know if it could take it a second time and still be hanging
 
I got the new one unfortunately


There are no "Open and Close Force" controls

It "Learns" the force "necessary to open your door" when you set the travel limits. BS

That's just crap....I just went out there and reset the travel and then opened it three times to let it "learn". I then closed it and put my foot on the bottom of the door and hit the opener once....it started folding and ripping my bracing loose again...this is dangerous.

Thank you Chamberlain for a big bunch of crap. Not only are you going to cost me $1000 but you almost did untold amounts of damage to my Blazer...and now I have to be less secure and not lock the door.
 
Might be time to wire the 110v power for the opener to a wall switch so you can kill it at the same time you are locking the garage door... :thinking:


-G
 
OK..nothing fancy...I went shooting for a half day and my shoulder is hurting...but I worked on the top a little


This is just hanging in the garage
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This is a rusty piece of metal that I hope comes with the new seals, cause they were ate up and fell into dust:

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Here I have mounted 2x4's with casters so I can roll it out into the driveway

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So I wash it first and then hit with rear quadrant of the driver's side with 60 grit wet by hand...nearly killed my shoulder. A lot of that rough dry stuff comes off. There seems to be an outer coating of something white and then when you break through that it is ivory or yellowish colored

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I got a couple cracked places

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