SAS'ing my 02 Duramax - Garage Build

[grizzlyoffroad]

OK Guys, I pulled the trigger on the transfer case! I looked all over the state for a buildable Ford electric shift np273 case, but had little luck. There was one on Ebay that I could have got up here for around $800, but it was used and still needed the shift motor mount machined for Chevy electronics, a VSS sensor ported, the Allison input shaft, and a tone ring machined in for the ABS/speed sensor! I contacted both Toby @ Lavender Brothers and Transfercase Express. Toby was very helpful and I wanted to buy the bolt on replacement (with clocking ring) from him....but he was about $200 more than TE shipped to my freight forwarder in Washington! Sorry Toby, but I need to save where I can All in all, it will be around $1400, but it has everything I need, fresh rebuild and will be tough as hell! I am fired up!!

 

[grizzlyoffroad]

It's going to be like Christmas soon! Got the shipping tracking info for my custom np273...should be here in about a week. Also got the 4.88 gears, Master Install kits, and Eaton E-locker ordered! I can't wait to see how my truck performs with the right gearing. She used to run like a bastard with 3.73's...so I can imagine how nice it's going to be with 4.88's. Plus, it will be putting way less strain on all my running gear. I also ordered the Hydraulic steering kit from ORU (through my dealer), but they are dragging their feet and won't' get back to us with an ETA....pisses me off!

The devil is in the details!....I still can't find the right darn brake lines for my application. I know it seems simple, but everyone I talk to says they don't know if theirs will work??...even ORD! How can that be!?....It's the stock fitting with maybe a different banjo bolt! The only company I've found that seem to have exactly what I need is ORU, and they won't return my calls or emails! Dang it, that's frustrating. I'll keep poking them and hope they can ship it ASAP. I'd like to have all my parts there in about a week, so I can hit it hard when I get off work next week!

 

[grizzlyoffroad]

OK guys...here's a question I asked Offroad Design about their shackle flip kit, but they never got back to me. On their website, they suggest if you use 8" rear springs or more...than you're supposed to use the 2.5" shackle kit with the long 6" hangers/shackles! I guess this helps keep the shackle from flipping back and forth as the large spring pack cycles through suspension travel (significant length change). Problem is, I already have the 4" flip kit with the stock hangers/shackle. Shouldn't I just be able to move the placement of the Flip Kit to keep the shackle at the optimum angle or position so that it won't flip back and forth during cycle? Has anyone dealt with this problem and figured out how far back the kit has to be (which is hard considering many springs are different lengths) or what is the optimum angle that that rear shackle should be at?? Let me know what you think!

 

[grizzlyoffroad]

I will just have to see when it all comes together, I guess. I was just wondering if someone had a magic angel or measurement, so I didn't have to mess with trial and error. I am hearing that if you move it too far forward, you get some nasty wheel hop. I have some monster traction bars that I build custom for myself and customers, along with huge Fox shocks, so I'm hoping the axle hop won't be too much of an issue...I guess we will see

Pre Fox shocks, and limiting straps....after getting my truck air born and screwing up my airbags!

 

[folkenheath]

That upper bar on the traction bars doesn't do much of anything for strength without connecting the two bars in the middle somewhere. Also, that style of traction bar can help, but it is not nearly as effective at controlling spring wrap as a bar that connects to the axle in two poins vertically to control angle. However, then you run into binding issues and need a shackle or johnny joint, etc. If it prevents wheel hop in your rig, then it may be exactly what you need though. It looks good.

As for your rear shackle angle, that depends on what you are shooting for. For maximum droop, you want it angled forward as it leaves the spring. If the shackle ever gets close to linear as the spring is at full droop, then you either need more shackle angle or a longer shackle.

For more stability in road handling however, you are better off with the shackle vertical.

 

[supermotard750]

Also, that style of traction bar can help, but it is not nearly as effective at controlling spring wrap as a bar that connects to the axle in two poins vertically to control angle.

^^^ exactly what I was going to say

 

[grizzlyoffroad]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. Yes, I know the upper bar is mostly for looks....I just don't like the look of a single bar running under the truck, and it's it's .120 DOM, so it's plenty strong for the application (unless I was rock hopping

I understand the physics of the design and I have studied the shackle designs, floating perches, slip joints at the frame connection and many others...but this system works amazing for it's simplicity. It's not for a rock crawler by any means, as it SLIGHTLY pushes/pulls the axle as the suspension compresses and collapses, but these tucks only see about 6" of suspension travel with equates to 1" of change on the push/pull for (using right angle triangle rules) As long as you keep your tabs welded to the axle at a right angle from you pinion, they don't wrap!...no matter if you have a top tab/mount or not. It's physically impossible to "twist" the pumpkin when it's got a fixed length to the frame and the tabs welded 90 deg off of it. I do agree though...this doesn't not allow for as much flex as a the other designs.

Thanks again guys...I love discussing these things with fellow wheelers, designers and truck gurus!

 

[grizzlyoffroad]

Finally found someone that knew what they were talking about with my brake lines! I called Cognito Motorsports at first, but they still didn't know for sure if they had what I needed...so they sent me to Crown Performance. That's who supplies most of these shops with their brake lines, and they know their stuff! They are sending me exactly what I need and you can even get them in custom colors!...pretty cool stuff, and even less money then ordering from most of the shops! Look these guys up if you need brake lines.

I also talked with Toby at Lavender Brothers / XXX traction and got the steering output shaft support bracket/bearing ordered up. I want to just get this done to begin with, so I don't fight issues with my steering box any time soon. He already had the kit in stock and is just checking on freight for me to Alaska. Things are coming together....and I'm about off work. Should be able to get back on this build right after Easter weekend!!

 

[folkenheath]

That support bearing looks pretty good, nice.

 

[muddysub]

that support bearing is a sweet idea, ive never seen that before. you alaskans and your huge lifted trucks, whats the total lift gonna be when you're done?

 

[grizzlyoffroad]

that support bearing is a sweet idea, ive never seen that before. you alaskans and your huge lifted trucks, whats the total lift gonna be when you're done?

Ya, Toby is the man for coming up with solutions for these "huge truck" issues I only have 8" springs, but the ORD hanger system is supposed to give around 4-5 more inches of lift. I little higher than I wanted, but the Atlas springs should settle quite a bit under the weight of the Duramx. I'm hoping to end up somewhere around 10-12 inches.

 

[rdn2blazer]

Bad ass rig there my friend. I always wanted to sas my 2K 3500 CC 4x4 LB truck. Glad I never dove into spending cash on it at the time considering I had to sell the truck and move on from it. My buddy still has it. You are going to love your rig once it's all said and done.

 

[grizzlyoffroad]

OK, I'm finally home from work and back to the Dmax project. While I was at work I broke down and upgraded my welder...decided on the Millermatic 211, since it has enough power for what I do, has the auto set, and is dual voltage, so I can run on 110 or 220! It's such a nice welder...I've been using my little buzz box Lincoln 10 for so long, I forget how sweet a nice, powerful welder is!

My first project with it was to scrap together the hanger that ORD sent me that was wrong...remember, two of the same side. I couldn't wait for the shipment any longer, so I torched off the hanger from the frame plate, flipped it around and welled it back on the plate...good enough for me to mock up the springs and keep things rolling. I spoke with Will from ORD today and he is sending me my new "beefier" hangers along with a Track Bar in the morning, so they should be here within the week.

Went down and bought a bunch of grade 8 hardware, filled up the welding gas and finally got the springs bolted up!.....so nice to see it coming together. The last touch of the evening was to put the support between the front ORD spring hangers to beef it up a little, turned out nice..gives me a more warm an fuzzy feeling. As I was laying under there, it seems like a huge blank distance between cross members now! I think I will fab another member right between the motor mounts, directly under the oil pan....but high enough that it won't interfere with the Diff pumpkin. I'll see how much room I have once the axle is under there.

Speaking of axles...I hope to pick up my Dana 60 tomorrow from getting a work over of new joints, seals and bearings...and get that mocked up. My gears, carrier and install kit hasn't showed up yet though, so I can't get too carried away!

My new welder…whoohoo

The hangers scabbed together just for getting springs mocked up

Springs are on!!

Prepped for more support

Extra bracket support!

 

[Teck]

Nice truck. Looks like you are doing a very nice job on that swap.

 

[grizzlyoffroad]

While I was waiting on parts to show up, I decided to button up a few things in the fender wells and fab up a crossmember for directly under the motor mounts and in front of the oil pan. I know I probably don't need it, but I wanted a little protection under there, a little more support under the motor mounts and I also need a spot to mount bump stops and limiting straps to. Let's call it practice for the cross member I'm going to have to build for the tranny/transfer case once I get the new clocked 273 in there!

Before putting the inner fenders back in, I decided to paint everything with Duplicolor bed liner, fix the brake line I hit with the saws all while knocking old bracketry off, mount my EGT probe that I've been putting off for years!, and finally mount the shock hoops with all new grade eight hardware.

Drilling manifold and mounting EGT probe

I love it when a 1/2 second slip of the saw causes an hour long fix! FML

The finished wheel well and buttoned up shock hoop.

Here's the start of the new front crossmember....just added support and protection. Not going to plate and weld in until I see the diff clearance.

 

[Cruz89K5]

Damaging a brake line during a SAS must be one of the rules. I burned a hard line with the welder, started a small fire.

Trucks looking good.

 

[RedRebel69]

Sub'd

 

[grizzlyoffroad]

OK, some more parts finally showed up!....Alaska shipping kills me! Got the new gears, master install kits, G2 Gears puller/installer, Eaton E-locker and my new custom 273 Transfer case from Transfercase Express. Guess it's time to start getting dirty again. The Dana 60 should be done today....Had Six States working on it while I was at work, changing bearings, King Pins, u-joints, etc. It's taking them longer than I expected, but hope to pick it up this after noon. While picking that up, I also have to get the hubs to the machine shop for putting the tone rings on. Busy day, so I'll get back to you with some progress pics tonight or tomorrow.

 

[grizzlyoffroad]

Well, I got my ass kicked by the rear diff all day....where do I start? First, I didn't happen to have a 36mm 12 pt socket for the pinion nut, so I had to visit every parts store in town until the last resort happen to have one laying in the dust on a shelf! A small town is a love/hate relationship sometimes!!...you can never find that last minute item you need! That nut took about 500 lbs of force to get off, even after mass amounts of heat. I have to hand it to Craftsman for not breaking the 1/2 drive ratchet!....since I didn't have the socket in my 3/4" drive set!

Then, after finally getting the carrier out a still couldn't get the pinion out due to 7 gallons of retaining compound on the splines! I tried to make my cheap larger puller work by fabbing up some adjustable nuts that held the puller tight on the balancer...but it just striped the threads. The next step was to weld on tabs to the yoke so that I could use my better, but smaller puller....that worked. THEN, my new $400 G2 puller was too small to get over the pinion shaft, so I couldn't get the bearing off. I didn't have a bearing splitter to ran BACK to town for one...which NO ONE had....big surprise. Guess I'll have to barrow Six States tomorrow.

The only thing I had left to do was put the new ring gear back on the carrier. Use the freezer/oven trick and it slipped right on and is ready to go. Makes me sick to spend darn near a full day and don't even have the rear gears done! Guess that's the way it rolls some times.

First attempt to use cheap puller, with welded on bolts to tighten the tongs onto the balancer. That worked at first, but then puller the balancer off the yoke and then stripped the threads.

Second attempt at custom puller worked slick.

Got Salmon?! Wife loves the carrier in the freezer and the ring gear in the oven!

 

[y5mgisi]

Damn! I want that freezer!