Shorty the crewcab. (Been saved from the chopping block)

[yellowK20]

I was trying to limit the negative travel so I don't kill the springs.

Meh, springs are a consumable , bump stops are to keep the pumpkin out of the oil pan .


Let Er Flex!

 

[shady]

I'm going to get the rears on, and then find a real place to flex it out.
Then I can determine what needs to happen where.


I know a place in the backwoods my plant owns that would be perfect to stuff 2 corners and droop the other 2..... But im not technically allowed to go in there with MY truck lol. The only guys that go out there are guys I know well, so I may be able to set it up yet.

 

[shady]

Besides... Lift springs and U bolts get expensive lol.

 

[yellowK20]

Besides... Lift springs and U bolts get expensive lol.

Coilovers..........

 

[shady]

That would be amazing!

My dream setup for this if I had deeper pockets, would be a set of super duty axles, coils all around, and a full drive train from a 2015 or so 1 ton Chevy With the 6.2/6l80e and whatever TC came with it.

 

[yellowK20]

That would be amazing!

My dream setup for this if I had deeper pockets, would be a set of super duty axles, coils all around, and a full drive train from a 2015 or so 1 ton Chevy With the 6.2/6l80e and whatever TC came with it.

2005-up Super Dookie front axles are cheap! And you can get 8-on-6.5” unit bearings for them .

I just bought another front today , 150,000 miles complete with radius arms and brackets for 350.00

 

[yellowK20]

05-up Superduty axles are the LS swap of the axle world .

 

[shady]

It's the rest of my dream drivetrain that's expensive lol

 

[shady]

Still got some flex testing to do... But it didn't do too bad with the bump stops all on. I did some experimental rears and set em about the same as the front. Then flexed it as much as I have available and it did ok.

We'll see when I get the miss fixed and take it back out...

I think it needs some zero rates out back.

 

[shady]

Both stuffed corners.

With me bouncing on the back I can compress the whole middle tapered section on the stops.. so I think they'll break in to a good compression height..

 

[Bent77]

Not a tone of movement. Is that what you wanted

 

[shady]

I think it'll do better when broke in. I can slightly compress the stops in the middle fold by hand. So the springs are doing a lot there.

But where I'm at instead of slowly crawling up a rock face, or something similar. I'm going down. A long, rutted out, muddy ass, mostly flat road and sometimes getting it is the only option. Crawling rarely is. So I set these for full throttle hard hit bounce type chit. Just enough to keep the axles out of stuff they shouldn't be into.

 

[Bent77]

Makes sense. We don’t have that gooey crap here

 

[centexk5]

Full throttle on a rutted gravel road trying not to wrap yourself around a tree while simultaneously trying not to bury to the frame or get hung up in a rut is a blast.

 

[shady]

Full throttle on a rutted gravel road trying not to wrap yourself around a tree while simultaneously trying not to bury to the frame or get hung up in a rut is a blast.

LMAO .
That's about exactly where it's at here... I'd rather have a crawly mix but I do with what's close

 

[shady]

Flexed it out to check stops. And see how far it would go.
When I stopped the rear driver tire had just barely moved but was still making good contact.

 

[Bent77]

Awesome frame flex!

that’s kinda how mine works too

 

[shady]

Rear passenger stop, nearly full compressed I'm guessing... Spring is just barely negative arched.

Front driver stop has a way to go but the spring is still doing a lot. So in a hard bump situation it would stop it right at flat.

 

[shady]

Awesome frame flex!

that’s kinda how mine works too

Long AF and no cage to stiffen it lol.

 

[shady]

Look at the box/cab gap and the hood line