dfl701
1/2 ton status
If your going to use the truck then yes pretty much
CK5
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Should i go to 42's?
- Thread starter CherryK5
- Start date
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
gay. Why wouldn't a drop pitman and a taller steering arm thing work?
And I was meaning 56 front springs and 63 rear. I couldn't think of the numbers.
now dont get us wrong..
you can do anything.. but when you start lifting your truck.. and post pictures... you dont want to end up on a scary steering website... i forget the link (and no scarysteering.com aint it i tried)...
but safety first...
i had 13" leafs and 3" body lift...
dana 44 up front but was going to be temporary... for a military axle...my plan was 53" michelins....
but nj changed their lift laws and the truck stopped progress...
anyway...
with push pull steering..
i had a 3" raised steering arm and the S drag bar...
here was my steering...
took me 20' to make a left turn and 30' to make a right... couldnt get the steering right no matter what...
now xover is sooo much better... tighter left and right with no issues...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/214996/fullsize/xoversteer.wmv
90'K5
1/2 ton status
Due to the amount of spring travel you will be putting the steering in a bind and lose most if not all steering ability when flexed out.
forgot about this one..
i was down a quad trail (yes 4wheeler trail in a fullsize
)and going down the twists... my front tire drooped.. while that happened my steering wheel turned.. it got to full lock and i couldnt turn right cuz my tire droop already made the wheel hit lock to the right!!!!!!!!!!
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
forgot about this one..
i was down a quad trail (yes 4wheeler trail in a fullsize
and going down the twists... my front tire drooped.. while that happened my steering wheel turned.. it got to full lock and i couldnt turn right cuz my tire droop already made the wheel hit lock to the right!!!!!!!!!!
So could a semi-crossover work? My buddys jeep has the drag link attach about half way across the tie rod, and it seems to work pretty well.
Ned Kelly
1/2 ton status
Sorry to be a party pooper. I pooped my own party when I saw the tires perform.
The biggest problem I saw with the Michelins was the ability to steer out of muddy ruts, or starting from a standstill. With the TSL's I could stop and go in the mud, turn in and out of the same mud ruts, and with alot less wheelspin. I think those Michelins would be great if you could put some chains on them. It is a heavy tire, and really thick. Many guys groove them extra. Not much sidewall flex with these on a light rig like a K30.
The biggest problem I saw with the Michelins was the ability to steer out of muddy ruts, or starting from a standstill. With the TSL's I could stop and go in the mud, turn in and out of the same mud ruts, and with alot less wheelspin. I think those Michelins would be great if you could put some chains on them. It is a heavy tire, and really thick. Many guys groove them extra. Not much sidewall flex with these on a light rig like a K30.
stumpbuster
1/2 ton status
This has been a topic of discussion here several times. The general consensus is going to be a No. Regular crossover steering with the arm on the pass knuckle is a superior setup.
This is a common misconception about the "cheapness" of the 52" spring swap. Yes the spring swap itself is cheap, but crossover, long shocks, really long brake lines, and a driveshaft with a LOT of slip is pretty much required if you are going to use the benefits of the suspension at all.
Also depending on the springs you use 6" may be a little more than you are going to attain with the 52's. I run them with a 0-rate and 7.25" shackles and Im between 4-5 inches of lift.
How will the truck be used? Rocks? Mud? What are your plans? Decide if you need real flexy springs. If not get some 6" springs from TC or BDS or custom if you want the flexy and the desired heighth for sure. Get one of your 60's and drop the $$ for a Crossover setup. All you really have to buy is the Arm. I had a draglink made locally for $100 from 1.5" .250 wall DOM. Have a tie rod made from the same. Buy the weld in bungs and TRE's and you can have a moderately priced proper steering setup. Read the cheap Hydro steering thread and you can put together a Hydro assist setup for around $150.
This is a common misconception about the "cheapness" of the 52" spring swap. Yes the spring swap itself is cheap, but crossover, long shocks, really long brake lines, and a driveshaft with a LOT of slip is pretty much required if you are going to use the benefits of the suspension at all.
Also depending on the springs you use 6" may be a little more than you are going to attain with the 52's. I run them with a 0-rate and 7.25" shackles and Im between 4-5 inches of lift.
How will the truck be used? Rocks? Mud? What are your plans? Decide if you need real flexy springs. If not get some 6" springs from TC or BDS or custom if you want the flexy and the desired heighth for sure. Get one of your 60's and drop the $$ for a Crossover setup. All you really have to buy is the Arm. I had a draglink made locally for $100 from 1.5" .250 wall DOM. Have a tie rod made from the same. Buy the weld in bungs and TRE's and you can have a moderately priced proper steering setup. Read the cheap Hydro steering thread and you can put together a Hydro assist setup for around $150.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
Bleh. I might go with a 4 inch with new springs and just have at the fenders with a sawzall. At least with a 4 inch i can keep my drive shafts and hopefully the steering set up with a drop pitman and taller steering arm. I already have the 3 inch body lift so 7 inches and some trimming should fit the tires right? Super flexy springs might be a future thing. ive been wanting to head down to katemcy rocks and try out the whole crawling scene. But so far mud and trails has been enough thrill for me.
Well one thing that will help you for sure fitting 42's is moving the front axle forward. The normal clearance issues are at the firewall when the suspension compresses the axle moves aft. Regular lift springs will help some with clearances as they generally dont travel near as much as the 52's or 56's.
Here is my setup. ~5" lift axle moved forward ~3" and as much as I can cut. I hammered the firewall an inch or two to line up with the fender cut. I also bumpstopped about 4" of uptravel out to prevent my tire from rubbing on the firewall. I still get into the rad support sometimes if I am really twisted up and turning.
As you can see its tight with 40's, but my tires are 16" wide too so that doesnt help.
Here are my fender cutting dimensions.
Here is my setup. ~5" lift axle moved forward ~3" and as much as I can cut. I hammered the firewall an inch or two to line up with the fender cut. I also bumpstopped about 4" of uptravel out to prevent my tire from rubbing on the firewall. I still get into the rad support sometimes if I am really twisted up and turning.
As you can see its tight with 40's, but my tires are 16" wide too so that doesnt help.
Here are my fender cutting dimensions.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
Man Im not trying to discourage you in any way. Just pointing out a few things so you can be prepared for it. 
I mean if you can get the tires for nothing then sure go for it. It takes a lot of upgrades to run a tire that big. I know I was kinda shocked how much bigger the tires were going from 50% 37's to brand new 40's I trimmed some more and the first time I went wheeling I instantly knew I didnt cut near enough
I mean if you can get the tires for nothing then sure go for it. It takes a lot of upgrades to run a tire that big. I know I was kinda shocked how much bigger the tires were going from 50% 37's to brand new 40's I trimmed some more and the first time I went wheeling I instantly knew I didnt cut near enough
dfl701
1/2 ton status
pick up the tires. lots of people want them. i guarantee if you decide not to run them you can make profit off of them.
and if you decide you want to do the 52 swap, go with some lifted 52s. you will have more lift and still flexy
and if you decide you want to do the 52 swap, go with some lifted 52s. you will have more lift and still flexy
heavy tire, but wears like iron. hard on balljoints and wheel bearings. they cake up if you dont have the HP to spin em but they do ok in rocks in the most favorable conditions. i.e 2 psi and 100* outside.
i consider those street tires only really.
i consider those street tires only really.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
80K miles in a light truck
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
What?
they are such a hard compound, they will last you till they dry out.
