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Stock or 2in Lift Suspension Suggestions

Here are some not so great photos of the front & rear springs. I didn't have a tape measure on me this morning, so will measure tonight. Also was wearing clothes that I couldn't crawl under the truck, which probably would've been the ideal angle.

The front springs are essentially flat. The rear springs have much more arch. Forgive all the surface rust...been more or less sitting 10 years until a month ago. Gotta figure out how to deal with that & stop it from corroding away. Its on the list...

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Optional 35s.jpg

For a brief period of time, I drove an '88K5 with no lift (stock springs) and 35's (which measured more like 33" diameter).
Had to trim the front fender corners for full-lock steering but otherwise it worked fine for street driving.

-G
 
Thats NOT a lift kit at all .

Stock front 2 leaf tappered leaf and a std generic add-a-leaf of the wrong style like i just talked about above . Notice the funky gaps under the 2 leaf and above the add-a-leaf . Thats not the way a spring pack is designed to work .

Rear has no blocks i can see . And there stock style springs 4 leaf . Also easy spot is the spring bolt clamp style with the black plastic shim on it thats a oem design . There is a add-a-leaf in there last leaf before overload in that last pic .

Hope this info helps you make a new choice on your options .
 
Thanks @sweetk30! Good to know! No wonder it rides like trash lol I would guess that pretty much any real suspension lift is going to ride better than what I have then, which makes the decision easier.

Because of cost, I'm leaning towards 2in TC ez ride, bilstein shocks and 33x10.5x15 on the original 8x15 wheels. Seems like sourcing them from ORD is the way to go because they can tell me exactly what I need. Prices might be a little more expensive, but at least I'll know I have everything. Although not sure about stuff like steering/longer brake lines. If they were added when these add-a-leafs were put in, I'd need to switch back probably.

Like I said in a previous post, not sure I'll have the cash on hand to do everything at once and the tires are borderline dry rotted, so those will be coming first. They'll look essentially like what I have now in the wheel wells, just narrower, which is fine. Then I'll get the suspension lift a few months down the road and the 33x10.5x15 tires should fit with a 2in lift, fill the wheel wells more, and not rub (or hardly rub), right? Sound like a good plan to y'all?

And I wonder what its current height is equivalent to lift-wise in inches so I can get an idea of how tall it'll be after. I'm looking to go lower rather than higher for sure. Any guesses based off of the photo of the Jimmy I posted last night?
 
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I guess the other option would be to go back to stock, because I do have the stock springs in there still with just an extra leaf added in both the front & back. I could take out the extra leaf. But the stock springs are probably saggy as hell at this point. Don't think they've been replaced in the life of the truck if they weren't replaced when it was lifted. Not sure where I'd source stock height springs, so may be easier to just go with the lift.

Also not sure 33x10.5 would fit on stock, although it sounds like it might from what other people are saying.
 
With stock wheels, there should be no reason you rub with 33x10.5 tire size up front, ever. I don't believe I've ever heard of anyone having an issue running them on stock wheels. Granted, it's not a huge sample size, its not nearly as common as 33x12.5. I don't 4 wheel this thing hard, but it goes off-road, so under more than just street driving, they won't rub.

You "gain" almost 3/4" (.7) of clearance running the 10.5. I suspect the minor rubbing most have with the 12.5's doesn't require trimming of greater than .25". Believe the clearance issue is at the rear of the wheelwell opening?
 
now i am in the shop on the big screen that front extra leaf has a rivet cut off still in it from a spring clamp that use to be on there . the leafs in the front might be so bad over add-a-leafs cause i think there reused from something else . :doah::doah:

2" lift should be o.k. with brake hoses and steering but best to just check it out .

glad we can get you pointed in the right direction . :waytogo:
 
sweetk30 said:
If goind add-a-leaf on STOCK front tappered leafs make sure the add-a-leaf kit is for tappered leaf . Most kits are NOT as there for std leaf .

Tappered works more the more weight on it and the more its flexed.

Std springs work the same over the length of the spring . They get there capacity from no. of leafs to add up .

Yes people do mix and it works but not the best option .
Click to expand...

So which do Skyjacker Softride add a leafs fall under?

Joel
norcal
 
dont do add-a-leafs .any add-a-leaf kit i install is STIFF AS A B!TCH . . . unless custom made at a leaf spring shop for that vehicle .

all the labor to install and reuse old springs and 4 more bolts gets the WHOLE spring pack replaced and a better ride .

all the years i installed air bag kits / timbren bump stop kits / and add-a-leafs i got the more complaints from the add-a-leaf people and i warned them . . .

your springs are old / jacked up for years / sagged / worn . . . just get a new setup .
 
Solved the “mystery” of why my tire rubs right now. It’s actually only my passenger side. Of course I just wasn’t thinking things through. My bumper is dented on the passenger side, and the black thing connected underneath is bent back enough to run at full articulation. You may be able to tell in the photo where it’s rubbing that black plastic piece. A bumper is on the list. I need to hit up some junkyards, see if I can find one in decent shape

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If you are careful and creative, you can pull that out some. It won't ever be perfect, but you can improve it some. You obviously would need something sturdy to tie off to while pulling on it.
 
Picked up the stock wheels yesterday I'm planning on using. I measured them and I think they're actually 15x7, not 15x8 like I thought. Posting a pic because I'm sure some of y'all are familiar with these particular rims. Any concerns running a 33x10.5 on a 15x7 rim?

Seems to be within BFGs factory recommendations of 7-9" width. But don't know if that changes anything as far as rubbing/clearance.

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Thanks! I’m glad my dad kept them in the back corner of the garage for the last 15 years! The first one I cleaned up actually looks pretty good. I’ll be real happy if they all end up in that good of shape
 
Thought I updated my post here, but I discovered there are at least a couple other tires made in 33x10.5r15.

Discount tire shows a General Grabber X3, as well as a Toyo Open Country M/T. But I see on Toyos site they also have the Open Country A/T in the same size. And of course the BFG in both A/T or M/T.
 
Good info. I can’t find the A/T Toyos though :dunno:. I’m almost positive I’m going with BFG ATs. I just love the whitewall look.
 
Here’s a stupid question for y’all. Do the center hub caps need to be on when the tires are put on or can I take them on and off whenever?

I would have thought they can come on and off whenever, but the way the lug holes look made me second guess
 
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