Stomis' 94 Street Truck - Snail Trail

[Stomis]

After some further investigation it would appear the hays pressure plate is just too tall. The slave is collapsing correctly and actuating the clutch w/o a hiccup. The master has no preload on it there just simply isnt enough room for the pressure plate fingers to extend back to engage the clutch.

The solution me and my buddy with more time building hotrods than Ive been on the earth is to use a block plate between the motor and trans to by myself that C hair of space the clutch needs to engage all the way.

Im going to test said theory by spacing the trans off the engine with some washers and go from there. Hopefully a $40 block plate cut into nothing more than a spacer will work. Moral of this story is measure your slave collapsed height and clutch finger height BEFORE you install everything...

 

[sweetk30]

simple stuff get ya every time.

few years ago I swaped from mech clutch to hydro . had good clutch so I didn't swap it .

all back together and made huge grinding sound unless foot on clutch .

tried few things and still there . once friend got under the truck and had me start it we found out what it was .

3 finger clutch will hit the hydro clutch fork and rub on the bigger pressure plate .

swaped clutch and good to go .

what sucked was dropping the 465/205 2x for the swap to be good. 1 for hydro swap and 1 for clutch swap .

 

[Stomis]

simple stuff get ya every time.

few years ago I swaped from mech clutch to hydro . had good clutch so I didn't swap it .

all back together and made huge grinding sound unless foot on clutch .

tried few things and still there . once friend got under the truck and had me start it we found out what it was .

3 finger clutch will hit the hydro clutch fork and rub on the bigger pressure plate .

swaped clutch and good to go .

what sucked was dropping the 465/205 2x for the swap to be good. 1 for hydro swap and 1 for clutch swap .

Yep that repeat work sucks. Hopefully the block plate idea will work and I'll be able to sneak it in w/o pulling the trans, again. Theres something to be said for owning a truck for 4 months and having 3 different transmission in it, 1 within 24 hours of purchase...

 

[Stomis]

1/4 spacer did the trick. 7/8s master with that oldschool beast clutch, **** feels like its mechanical...

I used washers so its time to order a spacer now. 3/16ths or even 1/8 might have done it but I wanted to leave room for clutch wear.

 

[Stomis]

Starting to feel like this truck is against me...

Had another snow day wed so I figured Id put the cclip eliminator kit and new cover on the rear and redrill the the axles for my wheels while I was at it. Get one side apart, redrill the axle with my jig and drill press. Start on cclip eliminators and chop the tube of the axle down like instructions say. Wrong cclip kit...

Call strange and request the correct one and get this response "O we dont make the street cclip kit for large flange 10bolts, you didnt cut your housing already did you?" Guy was super helpful, advises me not to use their track only kit as it will 100% weep on a daily driver. He said hes going to talk to an engineer and see if they can make me large flange housings for the tapered bearing kit.

I followed up with him today and he said he had lots of research to do about bearing sizes and axle offset etc and he would have an answer for me tomorrow...

If they cant make me a kit to work I dont have many options. I could weld my tube back together with a tru bar. I could run 9in weld on outers and switch my brakes out also requiring a tru bar for install. Im brain storming as I type this wondering if theres a possible way to run cclips to eliminate side load on a track style cclip eliminator...

Ow my head.

 

[Chevy305]

Wow that sucks

 

[1BEATK5]

That sucks butt. Id be pretty pissed.

 

[Stomis]

Well the hand has basically been dealt from Strange. The guy said hes sorry but he doesnt have a tapered roller bearing that will work with a big end 10 bolt. Hes sending me a "track only" ball bearing kit. Im going to run inner axle seals since the cclip eliminators are a sealed bearing. At least I know I wont have seeping issues with the oil staying in the pumpkin and the outers greased.

He recommended I measure the pockets and see if I can dig through a timken book for some tapered bearings that will fit. I told him it was worth a shot and I'll let him know the part number if I strike gold.

 

[Stomis]

Now Im really ****ed. Apparently my rear has some big end thats metric and no one makes a cclip eliminator for. So now Ive got a butchered housing and nothing to put it together with...

9 inch pockets here I come

 

[chulisohombre]

Cool build. Sucks all The trans issues. But looks like you got that under control. That rear end issue is balls too. Are they going to help anymore with what you have to mod now to make that fit? Or are you just out that money on their kit? Would it be easier to swap in another rear with the correct bearing? Now that your housing is cut.

 

[Stomis]

Cool build. Sucks all The trans issues. But looks like you got that under control. That rear end issue is balls too. Are they going to help anymore with what you have to mod now to make that fit? Or are you just out that money on their kit? Would it be easier to swap in another rear with the correct bearing? Now that your housing is cut.

Ive got to call them on monday. I can send them their kit back, sans wedding rings because theyve got to be cut off the shaft to pull the bearings off. I really dont give a **** what their opinion is anymore. The guy was blatantly wrong about what kit to use, their taking their **** back. I now have $400 in cclip eliminator **** sitting around that needs to be returned...

Im putting together a true bar and alignment pucks. Its going to cost me $160 + shipping for everything. Mosier weld on pockets are $90, plus $100 for bearings seals and retainers. Once I have the alignment bar, which I can use for a million things and possibly make some money with, its the same price to put 9in pockets on anything as it is for a cclip eliminator kit.

 

[Stomis]

Actually had a day where I didnt want to shoot myself in the head. Re-drilled my front rotors to 5x4.75. Worked very well. Im extremely pleased with my new drill press. I counterbored a 3/4in diameter on the back side for the new studs to evenly seat on and it all went flawless. I took lots of pictures as hopefully in the future Ill be trying to turn a buck on it from the gmt400 crowd. No one around offers this, Im guessing because the inside wheel bearing race has a cast in support that needs to be trimmed at an angle.

Im not so sure a press in stud would be a great idea because you would probably need to completely cut out the support. Im guessing real world it wouldnt make a difference though.













Im using 3 inch screw in studs front and back on the truck. I just happen to like the look of open lugnuts and long studs. I also trimmed my scatter shield spacer to just be a bellhousing spacer. Was going to throw it in but I need to bring my small compressor to the shop to air hammer out the trans dowel pins since our big one took a ****.


As far as the rear end goes Im calling mosier to order everything up tomorrow. Going with Ford new style big bearing ends, aka torino styles.

This will let me keep my axles since at the very least they are cut down to use a ford 9in bearing so I didnt loose out and waste $125 there.

With ford ends my drum brakes will be useless. So in the name of forward progress I'll be doing a budget weld on disc brake kit from Quick Performance. I'll be doing parking brake and drilled/slotted upgrade as well.

Ive been looking around to see if anyone makes a Set 20 type bearing with an internal seal rather than using umbrella seals. Not having any luck though.

As far as tools to button the rear up Im ordering 60" of this:

1-1/4 Turned ground polished round stock +/- .001

And this kit: Rear end narrowing kit

Honestly these are tools Ive wanted for a long time. The possibilities are endless of what you can shorten, lengthen, change ends on etc. Again hoping I'll make some future cash off this investment too.

 

[sweetk30]

better check the second kit for the bushing adaptors for the bar.

quick look said it fits 9" axle housing and fits were the carrier bearing would go in a ford 9"

hate to see you have a second goof up .

 

[Stomis]

better check the second kit for the bushing adaptors for the bar.

quick look said it fits 9" axle housing and fits were the carrier bearing would go in a ford 9"

hate to see you have a second goof up .

The carrier bearings in a 10 bolt have the same OD race as a 9in. I already sent him a message asking to substitute them if the 10 bolt carrier pucks are different for some reason. Hes gotta read my message before shipment anyway because I had to specify large or small ford end pucks.

I should have my bases covered but I appreciate the concern. A second look is always a good thing when piecing stuff like this together.

 

[sweetk30]

just makin sure

I got a line on a semi float dana 60 rear from a old 1/2 ton ih travall ( suburban style ) . its got 3.54 gears in it and a weaker style trac loc unit .

figure if cheep I score it for next rear for my 2wd if the 12 bolt goes boom . I would swap it to different traction device and upgrade to 35 spline shafts and newer brake setup .

 

[Stomis]

just makin sure

Yeah last thing I need is more ****ing setbacks

Im already going to take two weeks to do this. Next weekend to do the rear and then the following weekend to do the brakes. Guess I can cap the rear to drive it for the time being though.

 

[chulisohombre]

Glad you figured out A fix. Seems like you could definitely get some extra
Work out of the new tools on the side and maybe a few bucks to put back into your trucks.

 

[Stomis]

Got my front end put back together and my wheels on woo! So the front end is buttoned up and my AR23s are on it.

Shot of the nice rotors. I painted them black with caliper paint on the hat, back side, and in the fins. I wasnt going to but I figured I would be kicking myself in the ass later when they rusted up and I changed my mind and couldnt clean out the fins. Im planning on changing out the calipers to some fresh ones later on so I can paint them easily. Probably wire wheel and paint the spindles and do balljoints at the same time. I wish I could find some tubular arms that dont have drop built into them for this truck... O and I put EBC reds on the front btw. First time ever using a "performance" brake pad.



And there isnt much room to take a good shot of the wheels actually on the truck. Just to show them on. I love the long ass studs with open lug nuts



My alignment pucks came today and my bar should be here tomorrow. Moser order better be here by the end of the week. Im dying to get the rear done so I can order my brake kit...

 

[K5Titan83]

this is a bad ass build. iv got a truck just like this its a 97 though, right now its my DD and im working on my blazer. but once im done with the blazer im gonna start on the 97. great build so far!

 

[Stomis]

this is a bad ass build. iv got a truck just like this its a 97 though, right now its my DD and im working on my blazer. but once im done with the blazer im gonna start on the 97. great build so far!

Thanks!



Got my moser ends, alignment bar, and pucks. Man all that **** fits together perfect. Something tells me narrowing this is gonna be a piece of cake. Just gotta maff it correctly lol.