Stomis' Return of the Truck Build

[Stomis]

I'm glad both my rigs are diesel, only had to do safety inspection and with that gone NONE!!! . The real scam part of them getting rid of the state inspection places is the fee will still be there in the registration.

Oh and just so you know, if you go through with the tilt test (which is stupid easy to pass) they go over the truck with a fine tooth combo. Guy took 2 HOURS to inspect my chevy at the asbury location. He was pretty cool but still checked everything at least twice. So if you go you better be really sure the truck is up to par, especially since it's by appointment only.

Tires in fenders.
No more than 10in of lift.
No bigger than 38s
And mudflap right?

 

[KirsL]

My tires stick out about an 1.5in and the guy didn't say anything so I wouldn't go over that.

The amount of lift allowed is actually based on the trucks FACTORY gvwr, so say a toyota is allowed less lift then say an F350 due to different gvwr. Our trucks both being shortbed pickups are in the 7 or 8in of max lift range, I think.

They also measure at the door sill and bumper for heights. The door sill height for our trucks is 30in max, mines at 28 with 6in lift and 35's. My truck is a heavy pig (6000lbs fully fueled, no driver) which I think helped with the tilt test. I really wanted 37's but they would've put me right at the limit and I wasn't sure if they'd hassle me for being right at it.


Tire size is 38 regardless of the amount of lift and need mudflaps on the rear at the very least. I went over board with the one I got but they only cost 20 bucks each at napa. They sit about 3 inches off the ground, way over-sized but nobody can ever say I don't have them.

It all sounds worse then it really is, just be within the numbers and make sure the truck is in good running order and you'll pass with ease. I'm actually proud that my truck passed so easily, it proved to myself that I've built a functional and safe truck.

this picture was taken the day before I took it it inspection, so that's why there is no stickers on it yet.

 

[Stomis]

I'll have to measure my rocker. My truck defiantly sits lower than yours. At least it seems like it. Plus I'm going up to 38 XLs in the the next couple weeks so thats gonna add around 1.5inches to my height.

 

[KirsL]

Mine does sit pretty high for only a 6in lift, but when it's an all spring lift (HD ones at that ) it'll do that . From your pictures yours does sit lower going by how the tire fits into the wheelwell. Were as mine sorta hovers over it. I think you'll have no problems even with the 38's on it. I actually want to mod my fenders like ryoken did his so I can lower it to about a 3 or 4in lift with the 35's. Mine will never see hardcore wheeling so I can give up lift. Plus I think it'll look a lot better.

 

[Stomis]

Mine does sit pretty high for only a 6in lift, but when it's an all spring lift (HD ones at that ) it'll do that . From your pictures yours does sit lower going by how the tire fits into the wheelwell. Were as mine sorta hovers over it. I think you'll have no problems even with the 38's on it. I actually want to mod my fenders like ryoken did his so I can lower it to about a 3 or 4in lift with the 35's. Mine will never see hardcore wheeling so I can give up lift. Plus I think it'll look a lot better.

Yeah I want to build a new bed with big fender reliefs in it and open the front fenders up more so when I put the 38s on I can take my zero rates out.

 

[max 02]

My tires stick out about an 1.5in and the guy didn't say anything so I wouldn't go over that.

The amount of lift allowed is actually based on the trucks FACTORY gvwr, so say a toyota is allowed less lift then say an F350 due to different gvwr. Our trucks both being shortbed pickups are in the 7 or 8in of max lift range, I think.

They also measure at the door sill and bumper for heights. The door sill height for our trucks is 30in max, mines at 28 with 6in lift and 35's. My truck is a heavy pig (6000lbs fully fueled, no driver) which I think helped with the tilt test. I really wanted 37's but they would've put me right at the limit and I wasn't sure if they'd hassle me for being right at it.


Tire size is 38 regardless of the amount of lift and need mudflaps on the rear at the very least. I went over board with the one I got but they only cost 20 bucks each at napa. They sit about 3 inches off the ground, way over-sized but nobody can ever say I don't have them.

It all sounds worse then it really is, just be within the numbers and make sure the truck is in good running order and you'll pass with ease. I'm actually proud that my truck passed so easily, it proved to myself that I've built a functional and safe truck.

this picture was taken the day before I took it it inspection, so that's why there is no stickers on it yet.

It looks like you got blocks under the front springs?

 

[KirsL]

Nope, no blocks on my truck. Never had them and never will either. That's the spring perch on the dana 60, it does hold the spring about an 1.5in off the axle but that's how it was made. Does kinda look like a block from this angle though.

 

[KirsL]

Yeah I want to build a new bed with big fender reliefs in it and open the front fenders up more so when I put the 38s on I can take my zero rates out.

Should just mod the bed that you have, shouldn't be too hard. Just use some of the same size box tubing build the fender then cut out the bottom section that's in the way. Would probably only need to do 4in rise to get the needed clearance. Unless you're completely changing the design of the bed?

 

[Stomis]

Should just mod the bed that you have, shouldn't be too hard. Just use some of the same size box tubing build the fender then cut out the bottom section that's in the way. Would probably only need to do 4in rise to get the needed clearance. Unless you're completely changing the design of the bed?

Yeah I'm gonna drop the bottom rail of it lower for more storage space.

 

[Stomis]

Got half of my tube rockers done today. Also the fender fairy came told me to stop being a little girl and cut my fenders back all the way

Cut them all the way back to the firewall on a taper and also trimmed the front a little bit. So now the cutout flares are gone. They'll be replaced with tube eventually.

Then I got to work on the passenger side tube rocker. Used 2x6 1/4 wall. It put 60lbs on each side . Didnt even start the drivers side or the braces to the frame just got it welded into the body.

Trimming the bottom of the door was a pain in the ass. I barely got 10 tacks on it the **** is so damn thin. I'm just gonna get some panel adhesive or something and put it in the bottom seam from the inside of the door.

I should be getting my 38.5 XLs within a couple weeks and my 14 bolt next week. I plan to ditch the tool boxes and move the gas tank up behind the cab mounted high.

O and I extended the sliders behind the cab because I plan on tieing the new bed and future exo in there.

 

[StevoandaRedK5]

Looks good Stomis I remember when I did the slider mod.

 

[76zimmer]

Liking it man....good work!

 

[Stomis]

Did the other rocker today. Found a little rot surprise I'm gonna have to fix. Also need to pick some tube up to tie the rockers into the frame.

 

[StevoandaRedK5]

Did the other rocker today. Found a little rot surprise I'm gonna have to fix. Also need to pick some tube up to tie the rockers into the frame.

You're doing a full cage(exo maybe?) right? Just checkin if you're tying those rockers in.

 

[Stomis]

You're doing a full cage(exo maybe?) right? Just checkin if you're tying those rockers in.

Yes full exo eventually. Whats wrong with tying them in if I wasnt though, if thats what you were getting at.

 

[Stomis]

I'm pricing out my 4 link since I plan on getting my full floater next week. I'm doing some pricing between 3" ballistic joints and 2.63". 8 Forged ends are going to be $500! I wasnt expecting that lol.

The truck isnt going to be whooped on biggest it will probably ever be is skinny 40s maybe 42s but low weight in the back and slow speed stuff. After seeing Odins build with the 2.63s surviving being rear ended at 50mph I'm really thinking I dont need the 3" ones.

I was also curious if 1.5in DOM is sturdy enough for lower links. How about 1.75? I only ask because thats whats available locally. I know 1.5 is good for the uppers.

 

[KirsL]

go big on the link size. Ryans jeep has 2" 1/4 wall DOM up front for lowers and we bent one on the trip down to big dogs back in September., probably happened when he drove through a 4 foot deep culvert at 25 mph but it still bent. The rears he's running 3/8 wall for lowers, stupid heavy and strong but they take a serious beating and they have the gouges to prove it and are still straight. So for uppers anything 1/4 wall dom should be good, lowers I would run 3/8 wall.

 

[Stomis]

go big on the link size. Ryans jeep has 2" 1/4 wall DOM up front for lowers and we bent one on the trip down to big dogs back in September., probably happened when he drove through a 4 foot deep culvert at 25 mph but it still bent. The rears he's running 3/8 wall for lowers, stupid heavy and strong but they take a serious beating and they have the gouges to prove it and are still straight. So for uppers anything 1/4 wall dom should be good, lowers I would run 3/8 wall.

Damn really lol. ****.

Maybe I'll just use mech. tube for lowers lol.

 

[KirsL]

Really, it seems like way overkill at first but once you see the marks in them you'll understand. Ask Ryan for some pictures, some of the marks are at least an 1/8 deep!

Not sure I would do that, lol.

 

[StevoandaRedK5]

Yes full exo eventually. Whats wrong with tying them in if I wasnt though, if thats what you were getting at.

I've just been told not to tie them in without a full cage because the frame flexes and cracks. No personal experience though, I just didn't tie mine in.