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Stomis' Return of the Truck Build

Overview Gallery Discussion
KirsL said:
Really, it seems like way overkill at first but once you see the marks in them you'll understand. Ask Ryan for some pictures, some of the marks are at least an 1/8 deep!

Not sure I would do that, lol.
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I'm gonna go over there and actually give him a hand one night. I talked to him on the phone at the beginning of last week. Havent seen him in like 2 or 3 years since I worked at advanced.


As far as the 4 link goes I'm beginning to lean towards using bushings on one end and ballistics joints on the other. Kurt from DIY4x's fabricator kits on the axle end with all the brackets in line with the link angle and 2.63 forged ballistics joints at the other end so I can adjust my pinion.

I found a good online source for DOM links that wont brake the bank to bad. $200 for the links and $35 shipping doesnt seem too bad to me.

Thats for 6' of 1.5in .25wall for uppers and 6' of 2.0 3.785 in lowers. Will be beef and no crappy looking square tube links.

Looking at using Tahoe or Suburban coils in the back to retain some towing capacity.
 
Using bushing on one end will save some money and still work pretty decent, will be nice when on the street with it.

As for the link size, the two main things to remember when ordering it are wall thickness and the id (inside diameter). The ballistic joints have a threaded insert that needs a certain size to fit. So for example you need a 1" id with 1/4 wall. The size tube you would by would be 2" od 1/4 wall.

Tahoe coils I think would work good for you. The suburbans might be a little stiff. Course they could be the same spring, I've never looked into coil springs before :dunno: . Either way should give good flex while keeping ability to tow too.
 
Definately figure out the rates and specs of the Tahoe and Burb coils. To carry more weight sometimes the OEM's just use a thicker wire in a coil of the same height while other times they use a taller coil with the same size wire or I've even heard of a taller coil with slightly narrower wire. Box o' worms.
 
Sitting here looking at Trailworthyfab rolling over picking up a set of stock hummer 8 bolts and 37s... I could probably make all my money back or most of it when I sell my TSLs plus I wont have to worry about wasting dough on temporary 8lug wheels for the tsls I plan to get rid of....

Not to mentions I'm sure the goodyears from the humvees are much better on the road than my TSLs
 
Ought to be. Won't sling mud like Swampers but they'll drive nice.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Ought to be. Won't sling mud like Swampers but they'll drive nice.
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Well I found a guy 45mins from here that does the military surplus thing. He had four 85% plus 37 goodyears listed on ebay. Said I could do local pickup and hed get me a spare to. $380 for 4 vs $300 from trailworthy + $200 freight...

I was gonna get some re-centered 8 bolts from trailworthy and get the pcv inserts and rock rings later on.

I should be about $1000 in for double beadlock wheels and 37s plus a spare.

I'm just wondering if I should get pressed centers in the h1s or if I should get flat centers. The pressed centers only come with 3.5 BS which seems shallow to me. I was hoping for 4.5
 
So after accounting for my time, shipping costs of just wheels vs wheels and tires I've decided to just order a whole set of wheels and tires from Trail worthy.

Looks like it will be $1100 out the door for five tires and five 8 bolts re-centered out the door.

I'll probably order them when my tax return comes.
 
It usually ends up being cheaper just ordering the wheels all together but if it falls through its super easy to recenter, pressed centers are the only way to go.

I have reentered several sets.
 
Got my order from DIY4x today.

HD front shackle hangers
7.25in shackles for the front
New weld on 4 hole spring hangers to remake my front hanger
And ten 90* gussets for my hanger

I did alot of floor work on my cutlass this past weekend so I'll probably pull the truck in as long as its not raining or snowing.

I also decided when I get my tax return I'm gonna put my credit card to rest so no re-centered h1s or new tires for a couple weeks...
 
So I've decided to make a commintment to my self finish the floor in my 442 within the next few weeks. I've been putting it off really bad and I need to get the **** done so I can order my carpet and seats. I'm trying to get the cutlass on the road for the summer so I can go to some cruises and shows and enjoy myself. Since I still have a 383 to buy and build I need to get my ass in gear.

That being said I'm going to build my new front spring hanger tomorrow before I get to work on the cutlass. I'm using a piece of 1.5x1.5 1/8in wall angle iron as a jig to mount my hangers. I would build a crossmember but I dont want to add any lift to the truck. I figuring making a jig like this would be the easiest way to make sure theyre spaced right and equally forward/back on the frame instead of 1/2in off like I did last time...

Once theyre welded in I'm gonna make a crossmember inside the frame horns to tie the hangers together san lift.

I also plan on slowly ordering my stuff for the 4 link so its not a big hit all at onces. Probably get the bushing kits from kurt, my DOM from speedy metal, and then the big one from ballistics.
 
Made my hanger today. Came out really good. Made a little bit of an oversight that I wont be able to use the front hole of the bracket but thats ok since I dont plan on ever doing that anyway. I'll snap some photos of it if I get to the garage tomorrow

Also finished my entire floor on the drivers side in the 442.
 
Stomis said:
Made my hanger today. Came out really good. Made a little bit of an oversight that I wont be able to use the front hole of the bracket but thats ok since I dont plan on ever doing that anyway. I'll snap some photos of it if I get to the garage tomorrow

Also finished my entire floor on the drivers side in the 442.
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Sounds like you got alot done man:waytogo:
 
Stomis said:
Honestly whats the issue with the flats? I really dont want to put my wheels out any further than I have to.
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They bend, they loosen up, they are not as "flat" as you think they are i.e. you can't get very good runout with some of them. The taper on the holes (if they are tapered) is usually wrong.

Other than that nothing
 
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