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Stomis' Return of the Truck Build

The tube will look so much better! I would like to know how the HF bender works
 
The tube will look so much better! I would like to know how the HF bender works
It doesn't, it flattens and kinks the pipe. I have one that I used for my seat cage and my tire carrier but I would not use them for anything really structural. Search "tube kinker" or "pipe kinker" if you want some more opinions
 
It doesn't, it flattens and kinks the pipe. I have one that I used for my seat cage and my tire carrier but I would not use them for anything really structural. Search "tube kinker" or "pipe kinker" if you want some more opinions

No I will take your word for it. When I'm ready to do a cage and stuff I will invest in a quality bender. I didn't know the HF sucked that bad
 
Thanks for the compliments guys. As far as the bender goes its hit or miss with what kinda shape the dies are in. I've read up on it like crazy and plan on doing some mods to it that make it bend much better.
 
Have you thought of finding an old bolt in roll bar to use to weld in? If that is the only thing you are getting a bender for, might be the way to go.
 
Have you thought of finding an old bolt in roll bar to use to weld in? If that is the only thing you are getting a bender for, might be the way to go.

Nah I kinda wanna add it to the tool arsenal so I can make sliders, stingers, exo and such.

I picked it up already, and a bolt in bar would fall way to low on the cab.

I also got a blazer tank today to put in between the frame rails :)
 
Alright over the last couple days I've worked out a few bugs with my truck. I cleaned up the horrid rear brake line mess my former mechanic made and redid the entire thing nice a tight. Plus I got my blazer tank mounted in and it looks great. It sits a little low but its nothing the skid plate wont handle in an "o ****" situation.

Below are some pictures of the height the tank sits at, and the clearances between the axle and tank. Its a little right but I'm not worried about it seeing as how I'm going to bumpstop the axle as it is to stop my tires from smashing my bed. Plus my suspension is all down travel anyway :D

tanktop.JPG

tankback.JPG

tankclearance1.JPG

tankclearance2.JPG
 
it's probably too late, but i'd be doing fillet welds instead of one bead and stitches. also, like everyone else said, less wire + more heat = better welds.
if you do weld the end of the tubing, just tack a lot close together before you do your bead and you won't blow holes; you'll be able to lay a wide, pretty bead. another tip: welding downhill is sooooooo much easier than welding uphill and it'll look better when you're done.
 
Thanks for the advise. Could you fill me in on what a fillet weld is? I'm not too worried about what I've welded so far since my main roll bar hoop is going to be tied straight to the frame.
 
sure, a fillet weld is for welding inside corners but it can be used on flat welds if you grind a "v" where the two pieces meet. it consists of three seperate beads. basically what you do is run one bead between the two pieces to be joined then run a bead between your first bead and the metal on one side. repeat for other side. make sure you chip all the slag(flux) off between passes. that is the strongest way to weld. it works because instead of trying to penetrate the metal all at once, you get excellent penetration the whole way through by doing it in seperate passes. look on miller welding's site for tutorials; they're really well done. or just google fillet weld on image search. once you se a diagram it will make way more sense
 
sure, a fillet weld is for welding inside corners but it can be used on flat welds if you grind a "v" where the two pieces meet. it consists of three seperate beads. basically what you do is run one bead between the two pieces to be joined then run a bead between your first bead and the metal on one side. repeat for other side. make sure you chip all the slag(flux) off between passes. that is the strongest way to weld. it works because instead of trying to penetrate the metal all at once, you get excellent penetration the whole way through by doing it in seperate passes. look on miller welding's site for tutorials; they're really well done. or just google fillet weld on image search. once you se a diagram it will make way more sense


O alright the method your referring to I have know as beveling your work.
 
take a look at the last few pages of my build thread for ideas on your tank. probably not what you're wanting to do, but just an idea. :) link in sig
 
take a look at the last few pages of my build thread for ideas on your tank. probably not what you're wanting to do, but just an idea. :) link in sig

Yeah I thought about doing that but the issue is I mount my spare right ontop of where the tank would protrude plus theres a cross tube for the flatbed right in the way. If I eve run into any trouble with it I'll just beef the skid plate up. But the way I'm looking at it is its a huge improvement over a saddle tank :D
 
Alright got my shocks inboarded today. All home made. Setup for 4in up travel 10in down travel. Lemme tell you something, after doing this myself home made I would certainly say kurts kit is worth it...

inboardfront.JPG

inboardtop.JPG

inboardcross.JPG

inboardmount.JPG

inboardmount2.JPG
 
What was so difficult about the setup?

Idk honestly for something that seemed so simple in my head it wasnt as cut and dry as I thought it was going to be. Plus I didnt have the materials I needed at first and my original design had to be scrapped.
 
Idk honestly for something that seemed so simple in my head it wasnt as cut and dry as I thought it was going to be. Plus I didnt have the materials I needed at first and my original design had to be scrapped.

Wow, sounds very similar to the way my blazer projects happen.:D:D
 

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