Stomis
Professional Amateur
I know I was just saving myself from copy and pasting every single line of code since theres like 15 pictures but fine.... 
CK5
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Stomis' Return of the Truck Build
- Thread starter Stomis
- Start date
Thanks, I wanna see the pics, but I am too lazy to click another link. 
If it were me, I'd gusset the shock mounts a little more at the bend. At least keep an eye on 'em.
If it were me, I'd gusset the shock mounts a little more at the bend. At least keep an eye on 'em.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Thanks, I wanna see the pics, but I am too lazy to click another link.
If it were me, I'd gusset the shock mounts a little more at the bend. At least keep an eye on 'em.
Yeah welding that C and axle tube was a bitch. IDK why. I'm no welding pro but it was much smoothing welding my shock mounts for the 14b... O scratch that you mean the towers.
They are pretty damn thick c channel and I gusseted the notch I made with a washer and then filled in the gap. I really dont think they are going anywhere.
Yeah, I meant the towers. The tube and C are different materials so I'd expect that to be a tough weld, but I am no welding expert either. Are those Kert's tabs on the axle?
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Yes they are.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Got my tcase shifter linkage fixed. Apparently when clocked up one position extending the linkage adjustment right to the last thread to make it as long as possible is perfect!
Also got my exhaust patched back up with a flex pipe.
Its definitely not staying though I'm gonna run the pass pipe over to the drive side under the tcase to tranny adapter when I do my new exhaust.
Also got my exhaust patched back up with a flex pipe.
Its definitely not staying though I'm gonna run the pass pipe over to the drive side under the tcase to tranny adapter when I do my new exhaust.
Do any road driving? If so, do the front shocks ever bottom out?
jonathon
1/2 ton status
What are you using for a drag link?
Stomis
Professional Amateur
WFO Concepts DOM drop draglink. Beefy ass stuff.
Since I did the front shocks I took an 80 mile trip. I didnt notice any hard smacks of bottoming out and the front rides like a dream compared to previously. Its got 4-1/2in of uptravel on the shock which should be plenty. Its gonna get bump stopped either way so I'm not too worried. Besides I think people over estimate uptravel with leaf springs.
As for an update the truck is basically at a general stand still. The leaking was fixed by said trans shop and turned out to be a totally shot pilot bushing was letting fluid seep from the input shaft bearing. (totally my fault for being a doof and not checking)
I gotta put my chromo shafts in, finishing my front bumper, skid plates, boatside, and exo bed cage.
Stomis,
I always feel like a jerk for being the guy who has to comment on stuff like this, but maybe it will save you some headaches down the road.
As designed, those front shock mounts are not going to last very long....
The amount of leverage that a shock puts on the shock tower is phenomenal, and those c-channels you've built look really puny compared to something like a F*rd tower. I'm guessing that the failure point will be at the weld seam where the angle starts, but it's also possible that they will rip out of the frame... only two bolts (and both in a straight line)
Think about a stronger mounting scheme if you can, I think the current design is going to be a dissapointment after probably only a single wheeling trip.
I always feel like a jerk for being the guy who has to comment on stuff like this, but maybe it will save you some headaches down the road.
As designed, those front shock mounts are not going to last very long....
The amount of leverage that a shock puts on the shock tower is phenomenal, and those c-channels you've built look really puny compared to something like a F*rd tower. I'm guessing that the failure point will be at the weld seam where the angle starts, but it's also possible that they will rip out of the frame... only two bolts (and both in a straight line)
Think about a stronger mounting scheme if you can, I think the current design is going to be a dissapointment after probably only a single wheeling trip.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Stomis,
I always feel like a jerk for being the guy who has to comment on stuff like this, but maybe it will save you some headaches down the road.
As designed, those front shock mounts are not going to last very long....
The amount of leverage that a shock puts on the shock tower is phenomenal, and those c-channels you've built look really puny compared to something like a F*rd tower. I'm guessing that the failure point will be at the weld seam where the angle starts, but it's also possible that they will rip out of the frame... only two bolts (and both in a straight line)
Think about a stronger mounting scheme if you can, I think the current design is going to be a dissapointment after probably only a single wheeling trip.
I'm all for constructive criticism.
I had my ford towers mounted very similarly (not straight line, two half in bolts stagger about an inch) and had no problems.
I'm not trying to argue but I'm also not trying to go tear down what I built. I dont really see how a ford tower is any different in strength than the towers I built.
As far as the mounting goes I could always burn them in addition to the bolts but I didnt really think that it would be necessary seeing as how the shocks are never out of travel. The force of bottoming out will be on bump stops and the force of full droop never hits the shocks since they have way more travel then my springs do.
What do you suggest I add to them as an alternative to scrapping them? The bends are reinforced/plated with a washer and its welded and filled all the way around.
The thing that concerns me most is the angle that you've got built in to those mounts:
That bend, and the length of material from the bend to the upper shock eyelet takes all of the upward load from the shock, and applies it as leverage against your weld seam. It's sort of like having about a 6" - 7" long breaker bar working against that weld seam.....and the weight of your axle and tire/wheel is the big, dude on steroids applying the force to it.
I'm assuming that you have access to a welder and some scraps of metal since you've already done so much fabrication already. I think it would go a long way to come up with a "backbone" brace from the back side of the shock mount (where the upper shock mount bolts in) down to the top of the frame and land it on a nice thick plate with maybe a couple more holes to bolt it down. If you can re-use factory holes instead of drilling more new ones, obviously that would be ideal.
The main objective IMHO is to limit the movement of that upper angle section of the mount. They WILL flex a lot even just under normal driving... People are always surprised at how much, and how hard a mount like that can work against the frame. Anything you can do the re-inforce that angled part will help, and tying it to an adjacent part of the frame (the upper part of the "C" instead of the vertical again) will help keep the frame from tearing at those two existing bolt holes...
I think that would go a long way toward adding some necessary beef to those towers without much more effort.
That bend, and the length of material from the bend to the upper shock eyelet takes all of the upward load from the shock, and applies it as leverage against your weld seam. It's sort of like having about a 6" - 7" long breaker bar working against that weld seam.....and the weight of your axle and tire/wheel is the big, dude on steroids applying the force to it.
I'm assuming that you have access to a welder and some scraps of metal since you've already done so much fabrication already. I think it would go a long way to come up with a "backbone" brace from the back side of the shock mount (where the upper shock mount bolts in) down to the top of the frame and land it on a nice thick plate with maybe a couple more holes to bolt it down. If you can re-use factory holes instead of drilling more new ones, obviously that would be ideal.
The main objective IMHO is to limit the movement of that upper angle section of the mount. They WILL flex a lot even just under normal driving... People are always surprised at how much, and how hard a mount like that can work against the frame. Anything you can do the re-inforce that angled part will help, and tying it to an adjacent part of the frame (the upper part of the "C" instead of the vertical again) will help keep the frame from tearing at those two existing bolt holes...
I think that would go a long way toward adding some necessary beef to those towers without much more effort.
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Stomis
Professional Amateur
The thing that concerns me most is the angle that you've got built in to those mounts:
That bend, and the length of material from the bend to the upper shock eyelet takes all of the upward load from the shock, and applies it as leverage against your weld seam. It's sort of like having about a 6" - 7" long breaker bar working against that weld seam.....and the weight of your axle and tire/wheel is the big, dude on steroids applying the force to it.
I'm assuming that you have access to a welder and some scraps of metal since you've already done so much fabrication already. I think it would go a long way to come up with a "backbone" brace from the back side of the shock mount (where the upper shock mount bolts in) down to the top of the frame and land it on a nice thick plate with maybe a couple more holes to bolt it down. If you can re-use factory holes instead of drilling more new ones, obviously that would be ideal.
The main objective IMHO is to limit the movement of that upper angle section of the mount. They WILL flex a lot even just under normal driving... People are always surprised at how much, and how hard a mount like that can work against the frame. Anything you can do the re-inforce that angled part will help, and tying it to an adjacent part of the frame (the upper part of the "C" instead of the vertical again) will help keep the frame from tearing at those two existing bolt holes...
I think that would go a long way toward adding some necessary beef to those towers without much more effort.
I will definitely get to work on doing that then. I was trying to come up with some sort of brace last night without scrapping the towers and that would work very well. I didnt think of it from that angle.
Btw would a cross brace from tower to tower in addition to this bracing be a bad idea?
uao85
1/2 ton status
If I were to brace it, I would grind the sides of the c-channel flat, and have a couple of pieces of steel cut into the shape of a wide triangle that would contour the bend facing the engine while having it cover about 4 inches of material on the top and bottom peice. Weld it up all the way around and it would cover more surface area, spread out the stress created by the leverage.
The way that the cut on it starts above the frame would make me shy away from adding bracing on the top of it. If I were to brace the top of it, I would pb cut some material off of the bottom of the bracket, move it down until that bend is flush with the frame and then add the bracing to the top of the bracket to get the most out of it. That is assuming your bumpstops leave you enough room to do so.
Other than needing a little bracing, looks good.
Remington
The way that the cut on it starts above the frame would make me shy away from adding bracing on the top of it. If I were to brace the top of it, I would pb cut some material off of the bottom of the bracket, move it down until that bend is flush with the frame and then add the bracing to the top of the bracket to get the most out of it. That is assuming your bumpstops leave you enough room to do so.
Other than needing a little bracing, looks good.
Remington
Stomis
Professional Amateur
The towers are located height wise for proper shock extension/compression so moving them down is out of the question.
may i suggest some overkill? 
the red and blue represent gussets/ribs, the green and yellow represent flush-mounted plates through which to bolt to frame. i think a cross over the top of the engine to fix them together is just too much for shock mounts tho...
the red and blue represent gussets/ribs, the green and yellow represent flush-mounted plates through which to bolt to frame. i think a cross over the top of the engine to fix them together is just too much for shock mounts tho...
I like Colby's suggestion above. I was planning something similar for when I do mine. A backing plate inside the frame is a good idea as well. I think most people underestimate the amount of force transmitted through a shock absorber, even without it running out of travel.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
So its back for vengeance. The truck has been unearthed from is woodsy slumber in the back of the shop I work at. Despite many attempts to sell it and someone with a truck and trailer ready to take it for my bottom line price I still have the thing.
I've change my mind on selling it and am committed to keeping it and finishing what I started...
As the truck sits it has:
36" TSL Radials
52s up front
56s w/ a flip out back
10.5" 14b converted to 6 lug semi float, 3.73s, lockrite
dana 44 front, 3.73s, lockrite, crossover
Milemarker e12000 winch in the front
Flatbed
TBI 355/sm465/208
Square tube front shaft
The run down of whats to come:
40x13.5 Goodyear Kevlar MTRs when the TSLs are shot
Dana 60 front, 35 spline outers, lock rite locker
14b FF rear, detroit
56s will be moved up front along with longer shackles
64s out back
I'll be shortening the wheelbase from the 119" its at now to around 112-115" by pushing the rear forward and shortening the frame more
SYE'd 241 that I have. CV shaft for the rear also.
Also I'll be ditching the flatbed. I plan on making a square tube bed with cutouts for the tires. I'll be loosing the fender flares and running tube over fenders. This will be the start of a full exo cage which will be tied to the front bumper, square tube rockers, and the bed. I'll also be optimizing my bed space by storing things in the frame such as a second battery, rear winch, and a storage compartment. The spare and highlift will be moved to a swing out tube tailgate.
The drivetrain is pretty much gonna stay the same for now. I'd really like to put a 4bt in it but I dont know if it will ever happen honestly. The truck is being built to be a driver and a trail rig. I plan on finally getting my ass to rouche creek in the damn thing.
I'll post pics tomorrow but so far I've already started on the front bumper. I made a nice battery tray out of angle last week and did my square tube shaft, that stuff is done. Tomorrow I'll be done with the bumper and this week I'll be hooking the back brakes back up and putting in the square tube rockers with supports to the frame.
Here we go again!
Btw can a mod move this to the build section?
I've change my mind on selling it and am committed to keeping it and finishing what I started...
As the truck sits it has:
36" TSL Radials
52s up front
56s w/ a flip out back
10.5" 14b converted to 6 lug semi float, 3.73s, lockrite
dana 44 front, 3.73s, lockrite, crossover
Milemarker e12000 winch in the front
Flatbed
TBI 355/sm465/208
Square tube front shaft
The run down of whats to come:
40x13.5 Goodyear Kevlar MTRs when the TSLs are shot
Dana 60 front, 35 spline outers, lock rite locker
14b FF rear, detroit
56s will be moved up front along with longer shackles
64s out back
I'll be shortening the wheelbase from the 119" its at now to around 112-115" by pushing the rear forward and shortening the frame more
SYE'd 241 that I have. CV shaft for the rear also.
Also I'll be ditching the flatbed. I plan on making a square tube bed with cutouts for the tires. I'll be loosing the fender flares and running tube over fenders. This will be the start of a full exo cage which will be tied to the front bumper, square tube rockers, and the bed. I'll also be optimizing my bed space by storing things in the frame such as a second battery, rear winch, and a storage compartment. The spare and highlift will be moved to a swing out tube tailgate.
The drivetrain is pretty much gonna stay the same for now. I'd really like to put a 4bt in it but I dont know if it will ever happen honestly. The truck is being built to be a driver and a trail rig. I plan on finally getting my ass to rouche creek in the damn thing.
I'll post pics tomorrow but so far I've already started on the front bumper. I made a nice battery tray out of angle last week and did my square tube shaft, that stuff is done. Tomorrow I'll be done with the bumper and this week I'll be hooking the back brakes back up and putting in the square tube rockers with supports to the frame.
Here we go again!
Btw can a mod move this to the build section?
odin
1/2 ton status
Glad to see you're keeping it.
Someday we'll have to go wheeling together...you have alot less work to do than me.
Someday we'll have to go wheeling together...you have alot less work to do than me.
