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Suburban body on 1 ton frame?

129.5 burb vs 132.5 Longbed Single cab

If you move the body back 1.5" then you would need to

extend the steering shaft

lengthen the tcase linkage

figure out your trans linkage

It would move the frame kickup even further into your way

Throttle cable could be to short

Pushing the body back might make the rear body mount even further from hitting the frame


Seems like a lot of work compared to bolting in the axles and drivetrain and having the CUCV rear driveshaft shortened ( about 50.00 ) and welding on new spring perches.
 
yellowK20 said:
@MNorby swapped a crewcab on a single cab pickup frame , and it was quite a bit of work . Granted his was a shortbed frame but the frame kicks up in the same spot . The Burb body would be even more of a hassle in my opinion.
Click to expand...

That was @MTMike that did the crew cab on shortbox frame. I did the Sonoma/S10 cab on K5 frame. A K5/Suburban frame would definately be easier to do that off of since the pickup frames have that double kickup right behind the cab.
 
MNorby said:
That was @MTMike that did the crew cab on shortbox frame. I did the Sonoma/S10 cab on K5 frame. A K5/Suburban frame would definately be easier to do that off of since the pickup frames have that double kickup right behind the cab.
Click to expand...


Oops!! that was a long time ago
 
These trucks are basically adult legos so don't worry about bolting all the CUCV parts into a sub frame. That part is actually pretty easy.
Someone commented about liking the drop center K30 frame for making a flat belly pan easier to achieve and it does that well but we've found the part of the truck you tend to drag the least is the center of the belly and wide and tall frame rails get hit all the time. For clearance I'd keep a half ton frame height and a 2" drop center belly pan any day. The flat belly looks pretty awesome and is easy to build and skidplate but it's not the best for clearance.
 
yellowK20 said:
129.5 burb vs 132.5 Longbed Single cab

If you move the body back 1.5" then you would need to

extend the steering shaft

lengthen the tcase linkage

figure out your trans linkage

It would move the frame kickup even further into your way

Throttle cable could be to short

Pushing the body back might make the rear body mount even further from hitting the frame


Seems like a lot of work compared to bolting in the axles and drivetrain and having the CUCV rear driveshaft shortened ( about 50.00 ) and welding on new spring perches.
Click to expand...

Throttle cable and steering shaft will have to be checked for length.
Transmission and transfer case might have to be shortened.
Good point of the kick in the frame moving forward.
Thanks for pointing out trouble spots.
 
YellowK20 put the final nail in the coffin, the rear overhang is 8.9 longer on the suburban than the K30, without pushing the body back 1" which would mean 10" of add on frame work. I had no idea that it was that much longer.
 
Csm Davis said:
YellowK20 put the final nail in the coffin, the rear overhang is 8.9 longer on the suburban than the K30, without pushing the body back 1" which would mean 10" of add on frame work. I had no idea that it was that much longer.
Click to expand...

Measured to where? The bodies appear to be the same overall length. At least, they did last time I measured mine. :dunno:
 
campfire said:
So...isn't that just 3" different from a long bed pickup, as listed above?

I've measured this before, that's why I'm struggling. Next time I have the cargo area cleaned out I'll probably measure the bodies again.
Click to expand...


The body over hang on a burb versus a longbed pickup is pretty substantial, give me a minute to measure
 
yellowK20 said:
The body over hang on a burb versus a longbed pickup is pretty substantial, give me a minute to measure
Click to expand...


So a quick measurement puts the rear overhang difference. Between the long bed and burb at around 5" or
 
yellowK20 said:
So a quick measurement puts the rear overhang difference. Between the long bed and burb at around 5" or
Click to expand...

Which means only 2" of actual frame length difference, no? The distance between firewall and barn doors would be the critical dimension, if I understand what he's thinking of doing.
 
there is more body behind the axle on a burb then on a longbed pickup .
As such there is more frame behind the axle on a burb then on a longbed truck .

So, even if you could get past the body mounting issues , the frame kickup issues, and the different wheelbase issues, you would still need to add about 5" of frame to the back of the K30 frame to be able to land the rear body mounts and install the bumper
 
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