CK5
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Super Secretive Build Foolsize

Skunked: I was ganna see if they could make me a one off plate or something. I forgot to take the plate when I dropped axle off.

I just noticed that spring plate is a ruffstuff part correct? Very odd the spacing doesn't appear to be correct, I just installed the same plate with the same WFO studs a couple months ago with no issue. I know there are some differences between the Chevy & Dodge Dana 60, I wonder if that has something to do with it? Either way I would call Dan at Ruffstuff, he'll take care of you.
 
I don't think I would swap out the big block either. And I am a huge fan of the LS motors but like has been said gas mileage is out the window. Your probably gonna get around 10. There is a whole lot more than just power numbers. I would drive it see if ya like. I would also get your suspension and axles finished up drive it some then onto drivetrain.
 
Ok that all makes sense then. I sure don't want a th350 tho... Would like something with a overdrive for the freeway but I have been told that a BB and a 700r ain't really the best of friends. What would you guys recommend???

On a side note I'm not sure if ordered the wrong stuff or what but could some lend a hand out on this one...



The bushing on the left is the one that came with ORD kit for the stronger shackles up front and the bushing on the right I pulled out of the spring. Clearly they are the 2 different sizes. So what am I doing wrong???
Thanks for the in put and help guys. Y'all are vary helpful.
 
Minor update

Pretty sure I got my bushings squared away... Ordered a crap load from ORD AND NEW BODY MOUNTS!!! Had to drill out the shackles wasn't to bad. Ganna try hanging the springs this weekend. I also got they're add leaf kit. I was wanting to move my axle forward 2 inches but I'm not really understanding the instructions... Just wondering if anyone has used they're kit and moved the axle 2 inches forward??? A lil help would be nice.
 
Pretty sure I got my bushings squared away... Ordered a crap load from ORD AND NEW BODY MOUNTS!!! Had to drill out the shackles wasn't to bad. Ganna try hanging the springs this weekend. I also got they're add leaf kit. I was wanting to move my axle forward 2 inches but I'm not really understanding the instructions... Just wondering if anyone has used they're kit and moved the axle 2 inches forward??? A lil help would be nice.

are you talking about the 1" offset blocks that move the axle off the leaf spring center pin? They're pretty straight forward, you just bolt them to the spring pack but make sure the rounded edge is against the spring pack. I'll see if I can dig up a picture from my build.
 
these are DIY4X's EZ Inch however they're very similar to the ORD Zero Rates




Note the curved edge toward the leaf pack
IMG_3361sm_zps2da03db4.jpg
 
these are DIY4X's EZ Inch however they're very similar to the ORD Zero Rates




Note the curved edge toward the leaf pack

Wow... Now I see how it goes. Ha Thanks for the help!

Talked to Trevor over at WFO and once I can get it rolling I'm taking up to them to get the cage out the way!!! Need to start collecting pictures for ideas. Anyone got any ideas they wanna throw out there??? I want it cage to go behind the dash to keep it tucked away, seat mounts, seat belt mounts, wanting it go all the way back to the tailgate, connect it to the windshield frame, wanna still be able to put the top on, tie it into the frame, and slides tied into that. Got the goods covered?
 
Those guys will do it right.

You may want to think about aftermarket seats and buy those prior to the cage install. The front seats anyway, the rear seat is damn near useless with a front seat belt bar and the top on.
 
Those guys will do it right.

You may want to think about aftermarket seats and buy those prior to the cage install. The front seats anyway, the rear seat is damn near useless with a front seat belt bar and the top on.

I plan on getting some PBRs down the road. The guy before me put I think honda seats in it... They suck. A lot. Ha I was worried about how anyone's going to be able to get into the back seats with top on. Trevor said they haven't done a full top K5 yet but I ain't to scared.
 
Wow... Now I see how it goes. Ha Thanks for the help!



Talked to Trevor over at WFO and once I can get it rolling I'm taking up to them to get the cage out the way!!! Need to start collecting pictures for ideas. Anyone got any ideas they wanna throw out there??? I want it cage to go behind the dash to keep it tucked away, seat mounts, seat belt mounts, wanting it go all the way back to the tailgate, connect it to the windshield frame, wanna still be able to put the top on, tie it into the frame, and slides tied into that. Got the goods covered?




I would suggest not to attach the cage to the a pillar. It's loud, creeks and breaks windshields a lot easier. You would think it would make it quieter but it doesn't. It's quite annoying on my trail rig. The vibrations get transmitted through the cage. I'm pretty sure sponsoredbydad braced his cage to the a pillar only to remove it by the next run. I would only attach to the a pillar if you are solid mounted everywhere.
 
I want it bolted to the floor but tied into the frame as well. What do you mean solid mounting everywhere???

I would suggest not to attach the cage to the a pillar. It's loud, creeks and breaks windshields a lot easier. You would think it would make it quieter but it doesn't. It's quite annoying on my trail rig. The vibrations get transmitted through the cage. I'm pretty sure sponsoredbydad braced his cage to the a pillar only to remove it by the next run. I would only attach to the a pillar if you are solid mounted everywhere.
 
The body is usually mounted via rubber to absorb vibration meaning it still moves independent of the frame. If you tie the cage to the frame and the body you are reducing the amount of vibrations that can be absorbed by the rubber mounts. Ideally you want to go one way or the other. Using bushings on the frame to tie the cage to, in conjunction with the oem rubber body bushings will make for a nicer ride. That or solid mount the cage to the frame , and use solid aluminum pucks rather than rubber body bushings. Mix and match the methods and you may have issues. Not the end of the world just something to think about.
 
This is assuming you care about having your cage make noise. If you solid mount the cage and the upper a pillar and leave the rest of body floating it will eventually wear out some sheetmetal most likely the lower a pillar.
 
Ok I think I get what you talking about. When I said I wanted to tie the cage to the frame I was talking about the rubber mounts. I have seen a few guys on here do it before but does that make any sense??? Trying to make the picture in my head into words. Ha

The body is usually mounted via rubber to absorb vibration meaning it still moves independent of the frame. If you tie the cage to the frame and the body you are reducing the amount of vibrations that can be absorbed by the rubber mounts. Ideally you want to go one way or the other. Using bushings on the frame to tie the cage to, in conjunction with the oem rubber body bushings will make for a nicer ride. That or solid mount the cage to the frame , and use solid aluminum pucks rather than rubber body bushings. Mix and match the methods and you may have issues. Not the end of the world just something to think about.
 
Ok I think I get what you talking about. When I said I wanted to tie the cage to the frame I was talking about the rubber mounts. I have seen a few guys on here do it before but does that make any sense??? Trying to make the picture in my head into words. Ha


Yes lots of people do that. I solid mounted everything and do not like it. Works for a trail rig, but I wouldn't put it on a dd/ weekend cruiser.
 
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