Supercharger fix;guage & plugs question

[Cancleaner]

Just run the fuel that's in there till it's about done, no real reason to waste that. Just take it easy on the throttle till you know what fuel is in there.

Headers, y-pipe, to a single 3" system should flow plenty for a sc small block. For full duals use 2.5" on each side.

7psi sounds like it's in the safe zone. Apples and oranges here but I have my old Volvo cranked up to 10psi and have read that up to 15psi is still safe. In your case I'd advise a boost guage and maybe even an air/fuel guage to make sure it's not leaning out. Too lean under boost can lead to a new inspection hole in the block, which you don't want. Is there a "hotter" tuned chip in the ECM? Or just relying on higher fuel pressure to add fuel to the mix?

The hole in the drivers side valve cover... The PCV valve should be on the pass side, that is correct. The hole in the drivers side cover is for fresh air to enter the crank case. On the factory set up there was a tube that stuck into that hole and connected to a fitting under the air cleaner, not directly to the throttle body (non vacuum but after the air filter). You could find a filtered breather cap that will fit in there or connect a hose from there to the intake tube.

Good info, Thanks!!

I was actually looking a adding more than one gauge to help keep an eye on the "vitals" so to speak. I will defiantly add the A/F gauge, thought maybe a EGT gauge as well. Kinda fond of those Glowshift Gauges, thinking I might have to install those in the existing overhead console

Will get a breather for that other valve cover asap!

thanks!!

 

[ccarley]

Not that I have the money for one right now, but a supercharger is of high interest to me and my Suburban.

I wasn't able to see the pics on the earlier pages. Do you have an overall pic of the engine bay?

And once you start driving it, I'm really curious as to your impressions overall with the engine.

Clay

 

[texas4x4rebel]

Your pics on the first page are gone also if you need some help with stuff maybe one day I could swing by and help you out.

 

[Cancleaner]

Not that I have the money for one right now, but a supercharger is of high interest to me and my Suburban.

I wasn't able to see the pics on the earlier pages. Do you have an overall pic of the engine bay?

And once you start driving it, I'm really curious as to your impressions overall with the engine.

Clay

How's that?? I will most certainly be posting how how it all works out! I have had a chevy truck before but never a burb, I can tell ya i like the way it felt on the way home

I took out the POS intake set up the PO had in it before so it's obviously not in the pic. I am currently building one outta PVC between the SC and the air filter, true cold/cool air!

 

[Cancleaner]

Your pics on the first page are gone also if you need some help with stuff maybe one day I could swing by and help you out.

Wonder what happened? I bet when I started a new album on photobucket and moved the pics there it did something. I seem to remeber a "warning" page popping up as I was moving them. I'll see if I can getter back up.


Ft. Worth, were practically neighbors!! Well have to latch up some time perhaps, and , I dig your rig!

( Fixed previous pics )
Thanks!

 

[jeff in co]

Anytime you move pics around from the source (such as photobucket, etc), the link is broken so the earlier pics wouldn't show up anymore. You would need to go in and edit/paste in the new link......

 

[Cancleaner]

Anytime you move pics around from the source (such as photobucket, etc), the link is broken so the earlier pics wouldn't show up anymore. You would need to go in and edit/paste in the new link......

There we have it, now I know for sure. Thanks Jeff'n'co

 

[mudbuggy]

I think I'm going to tune into how this goes. Might go supercharger instead of turbo if this looks as good as I think it might. Good luck!!!

 

[Big Ray]

How's that?? I will most certainly be posting how how it all works out! I have had a chevy truck before but never a burb, I can tell ya i like the way it felt on the way home

I took out the POS intake set up the PO had in it before so it's obviously not in the pic. I am currently building one outta PVC between the SC and the air filter, true cold/cool air!

burbs rawk on the road!

big, roomy, comfy, and if yours looks like mine, folks stay out of your way

 

[Cancleaner]

WELL!! Since I am just waiting on this bracket I thought I might ask about this code 45 issue.


Can I assume this would cause a "O2 sensor(exhaust rich)" code?

Note: I noticed the light came on two time on the drive home, and both time were at the stop lights. I assume its "rich" due to lack of air and more fuel. Whatchyall think?

The nice PO in all his wisdom, got seriously of generous with the oil.. Never seen a filter this bad!

 

[Big Ray]

from import killer website:



CODE 45
Trouble Code 45 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently low exhaust oxygen content (rich), despite the efforts of the ECM to decrease injector on-time (thus decreasing fuel delivered). Integrator and BLM numbers may indicate < 128 by a substantial margin.
Code 45 is set when:
? O2 sensor voltage remains above .7 volt for 50 seconds
? engine has been running for 1 minute or more
? throttle is between 3 and 45 percent open
? system is running "Closed Loop"

Possible causes include:
1. O2 sensor defective or contaminated (A plugged catalectic converter will render the O2 sensor defective)
2. Leaking fuel injectors
3. Fuel pressure too high
4. EMI interference from poor plug wires
5. Evaporative Emission system defect
6. TPS and/or EGR problem
Note: Presence of Code(s) 33 and/or 34 may indicate MAP problem. This should be the first suspect in the case of a Code 45 being set.

p.s. I agree about that air cleaner rig being the problem...hoping it's an easy fix.

 

[Cancleaner]

from import killer website:



CODE 45
Trouble Code 45 indicates that the O2 sensor is showing a persistently low exhaust oxygen content (rich), despite the efforts of the ECM to decrease injector on-time (thus decreasing fuel delivered). Integrator and BLM numbers may indicate < 128 by a substantial margin.
Code 45 is set when:
? O2 sensor voltage remains above .7 volt for 50 seconds
? engine has been running for 1 minute or more
? throttle is between 3 and 45 percent open
? system is running "Closed Loop"

Possible causes include:
1. O2 sensor defective or contaminated (A plugged catalectic converter will render the O2 sensor defective)
2. Leaking fuel injectors
3. Fuel pressure too high
4. EMI interference from poor plug wires
5. Evaporative Emission system defect
6. TPS and/or EGR problem
Note: Presence of Code(s) 33 and/or 34 may indicate MAP problem. This should be the first suspect in the case of a Code 45 being set.

p.s. I agree about that air cleaner rig being the problem...hoping it's an easy fix.

Thanks FAtGuy At least it doesn't seem to hard to fix. After this it off the the muffler shop for new exhaust. That includes new O2 and cat. Might as well pick up some new plugs and wires today also.

I hope it's simple like that

I know its got a new fuel pump that puts out a higher fuel pressure, how much I dont know, But It is in my intentions to install a gauge cluster with that being one of the gauges.



I can't wait to get all this Ironed out so i can put some music is this big ol thang!

 

[Cancleaner]

Super charger bracket arrived!

Ok so the man brings my supercharger throttle bracket today! No, for the life of me I cant piece the dang thing together!

The install manual says:

" Step 38: All of the control cables route under the main wire loom. Route the cruise control cable under the power brake vaccum tube and replace the bracket bolt. NOTE; Install all of the cables to the throttle bracket before attatching the bracket to the throttle body adapter. If readjustment is neccessary after reattaching the cables consult a G.M. Shop Manual."

" Step 39: Install the throttle bracket, supplied with the kit,to rear the rear supercharger manifold, just below 90 deg. water fittings with the two 1/4" studs and lock nuts."

That is a direct quote and all it says in the whole manual.

Y'all see something I'm not seeing???? Anyone have a pic of there stock TBI cable setup by chance? Man this is frustrating me

Oh BTW, I found the original, exact same bracket I just ordered welded to the old Cruise control

 

[ryoken]

to rear the rear supercharger manifold, just below 90 deg. water fittings with the two 1/4" studs and lock nuts."

wtf, kinda english class did these people take?



are there any corresponding bolt spots on the rear, or rear side of the charger itself, that match up to the 2 holes where your palm is? that is the implication, install some studs, holes are 1/4... thats certainly not something you'd bolt to the last 2 bolts of the intake like most brackets.. the holes aren't even close to right...

 

[Cancleaner]

Fortunately I took a class on "FUI" (F****d up instructions)

This is what I found. I believe this is the way they want it positioned.

The yellow arrows show the " 1/4 studs " the speak of. The top was was apparently snapped of, the bottom is missing. I can find replacements but the top is going to be all kinds of ..... well, all I can do is try the extractor tool thing. If I can't get it I'm thinking make a brace against the fire wall maybe.

ryoken, This angle compared to stock is way off but looks like it'll all be in a straight line. what you think?

WOT:

 

[ryoken]

yup, absolutely....


looks like you'll have to spin that fitting out to work on the one... housing is alum correct? might wanna try a little heat to the surrounding area, good shock shot with a heavy hammer and quality center punch, followed by a lefthand drillbit.. me bet's that would get it... obviously be careful with alum...

 

[Cancleaner]

Yessir, what I'm thinking too. I found a 1/4'' bolt with the right threads, I'm going to the store now to pick up a couple shorter grade 8's. Post up when I get this far

 

[ryoken]

I would go with studs if you can.. either stainless or hardened steel... dab of blue loctite... it's 1/4/20, super easy to find...

 

[496truck]

If I can't get it I'm thinking make a brace against the fire wall maybe.

Negative. The engine moves independantly of the firewall. Control cables need to be anchored to the engine or some part of it.

Worst case, if you can't get the broken bolt out, drill it bigger and heli coil it. Or even tap it for the next size up and drill the hole in the bracket accordingly.

 

[Cancleaner]

Negative. The engine moves independantly of the firewall. Control cables need to be anchored to the engine or some part of it.

Worst case, if you can't get the broken bolt out, drill it bigger and heli coil it. Or even tap it for the next size up and drill the hole in the bracket accordingly.

Understood, Makes perfect since.. I got the easyouts and reversed drill bits already, just don't have the drill that will fit between the brake booster dude.


This is where I'm at so far.

Kind of a "Mock up" . I replace the accelerator cable too.

I don't have then clip for the TV Cable either.. I have a feeling that's going to be quite the inconvenience.