No worries Jess, I appreciate it man
) up front with 8 lug ends, open, and picking up a FF 14 bolt for the rear and locking that instead of wasting the extra coin doing it to the SF you already have. Like Josh said, do the crossover regardless. It just plain works. You dont need to hydro assit at first, mine works pretty well with out so far. Lastly, you've seen first hand on both my Wagoneer and on Denton's Blazer how well both the BFG and Goodyear 37" Humvee tires work. Especially when you consider the price. You've also seen the size in person compared to 35"s and know they are substantially larger. 
Yes, 37's are just big 35's, just like 35's are just big 33's and so on... I think that's the point of bigger tires - they are bigger. I can't think of any radial tire that measures at the advertised size (except from Interco, for some sizes).Why so set on 37s? Or are you talking about military 37s, which has been discussed on CK5 are really just big 35s?
I can't see how anybody can complain about those tires for the price of them.My ground clearance is probably the biggest issue that limits where I go in this truck. A few more inches underneath would be good, and I figure that the military 37's are the best bang for the buck right now.

Soo all you really want is a "few more inches"![]()

I should say, that my main goal for this truck is somewhat of an expo rig. I drive it everywhere I wheel, and at the end of the day, I need it to get me back home. I think with the 37's, I COULD get by on the 3/4 tons without very many issues. It's just the fact that I will be driving out to Michigan again this summer and also possibly anywhere else I go wheeling. I want to keep the truck streetable, but also able to go anywhere I want it to go. Will a set of tons accomplish that? For sure. But so will almost anything else, as long as I know when to relax on the stupid pedal.
) Unfortunately my new 3/4 stuff is 4.10, I'd prefer 4.56 as far as deciding on 35-37 and a 700r.I think I'm similar to you in what I want to accomplish. I'd love tons, strength is there, big pumpkin sucks (could could be addressed), but the main thing I love on the FF is the FF. If you break an axle, you can get home. That being said, I'm rolling with my 3/4 ton stuff. A matter of affordability, and it's what I have. I need tires/rims, so that expense can get out of the way, and if/when the axles take a dump at a later time, I can think about switching. But just going tons from the start, you do save not having to re-do it later. Pros and cons.
I the expo type as well, I don't think I'll be too hard on them. Play time vs. fix time, I'd rather take it easy, than go all out once and break something, and be down for X amount of time. I've had plenty of fun in my fully stock K5, I don't need to compete with $30k rigs with tons. I can't hang, I don't need to and break stuff trying.
But I think there tends to be a lot of talk in the manner of you're guaranteed to break something your first time out unless you have tons. Or that how it can be interpreted. I know I've done a lot in 1/2 ton gear, granted 33s (and 3.08 to boot) Unfortunately my new 3/4 stuff is 4.10, I'd prefer 4.56 as far as deciding on 35-37 and a 700r.
All of this talk is only relative to your idea or style of "wheeling". I think there's a misconception that if you wheel a truck than your running gear will hold up the same as mine no matter where you are in the country. 90% of the people on this site go wheeling on fire roads and mild terrain where a SF14 will never break a sweat. For those of us wheeling in the Northeast region this is not the case. In our area and the type of wheeling ( i'm assuming) that Swetty wants to do he can only benefit from an axle like 14BFF. If his intentions were to stick to the green trails with the stocker-ish rigs than that would be fine...but I don't think it is. On the side of cost, its cheaper to run the 14Bff, they can be had for $150 and under, an automatic locker is half the cost of one for a sf14 (uses existing carrier) and the install is a fraction of the cost as the carrier can be pulled out and reinstalled without bothering the pinion which saves on parts and labor. Just because you have an axle doesn't make it the "cheaper option". Oh and when you decide "Yo I need 4-D's on my truck"...guess what, your axle is already up to the task![]()
I don't try to keep up with 30k rigs either,

All of this talk is only relative to your idea or style of "wheeling". I think there's a misconception that if you wheel a truck than your running gear will hold up the same as mine no matter where you are in the country. 90% of the people on this site go wheeling on fire roads and mild terrain where a SF14 will never break a sweat. For those of us wheeling in the Northeast region this is not the case. In our area and the type of wheeling ( i'm assuming) that Swetty wants to do he can only benefit from an axle like 14BFF. If his intentions were to stick to the green trails with the stocker-ish rigs than that would be fine...but I don't think it is. On the side of cost, its cheaper to run the 14Bff, they can be had for $150 and under, an automatic locker is half the cost of one for a sf14 (uses existing carrier) and the install is a fraction of the cost as the carrier can be pulled out and reinstalled without bothering the pinion which saves on parts and labor. Just because you have an axle doesn't make it the "cheaper option". Oh and when you decide "Yo I need 4-D's on my truck"...guess what, your axle is already up to the task![]()
I don't try to keep up with 30k rigs either,
Is he going to crawl between two bolders with tires on each, I don't know.
It might be there, will he choose to tackle that obstacle or take a bypass, I don't know.
I guess I'd do stuff that'd require tons 
Definitely right, the issue is what terrain, what will he be doing.
What I was going off of was his quote, expo'ish type rig, drive there, drive back, nothing absolutely crazy.
If it really was an expedition rig, it better be a FF rear, hate to snap an old shaft in the SF in the middle of nowhere and be stranded!
I think 'region' of the country is debatable. It's where you go, and what you choose to do while you're there.
I'm form MD, lived for years in WA, and now in AR. Here for example, is pretty mild, as far as region/state, there's hills (these people call them 'mountains'), I can go wheeling, mudding or crawling, just depends where I go here. I can go to our local park and have access to multiple levels of trails. As far as equipment holding up, that's a choice in what you do, which is what I was talking about not breaking stuff. You may have some rock cliffs, but is he going to go over 5' tall rocksIs he going to crawl between two bolders with tires on each, I don't know.
It might be there, will he choose to tackle that obstacle or take a bypass, I don't know.
As far as cost effective FF/SF. You're implying he absolutely will right now, build up one of the two. Wasn't he still deciding/asking?
He wants to lock one if not both axles
I guess I was trying to say, run what you can get, what will get you out on the trail to play. You don't need bulletproof in order to have fun, depending on what you wheel, how you wheel, and where you go.
This is what he has been doing for the last couple of years on his 10 Bolts, its his wanting to step up to the next level of terrain that warrants the axle upgrade to at least give the sense of security when he lays the pedal down on some slick rocky hill climb and/ rock garden
Obviously if what you do requires FF, then it requires FF. What I do for example, doesn't require FFs, but that's cause what I do, is dictated by what I have.
And if I had a 14bff, then well....I guess I'd do stuff that'd require tons
EDIT: To help understand, what will he be doing?
This type of stuff?
View attachment 155678
This type of stuff
View attachment 155679
This?
View attachment 155680
Or this?
View attachment 155681
Or this?
View attachment 155682
I'm guess 2-5, and a bit heavier, but not #1. But maybe?