Just take your channel locks and twist out the exposed cap the rest of the way
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CK5
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The Beige Jimmy
- Thread starter regal403
- Start date
Those knipex cobra pliers work good or a small pipe wrench. The caps are hard and channel locks have a hard time getting any bite on them. But yes they just need to twist out at that point.
I'll give that a shot
Off like a prom dress. Thanks for the tip
Everyone should have a pair of Knipex cobra pliers!
I did this today, thanks for the tip.
The new rear is an open 10 bolt with 3.42s out of a 1990 K5. I learned that I needed a combination u-joint to adapt my driveshaft's 1350 style to the yoke's 3R style. Finally got it put back together today and took it out to get burgers for supper.
My one man bleeder really doesn't do shit. I ended up using a 2x4 as my little helper buddy.
I should get one of the little pumper types instead.
Looking clean and fat thanks to the fisheye lens effect
Burger time
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Don’t you have a wife? Children? It’s time for Donny to start earning his keep.
Martin
Martin
Does it drive better with the deeper gears?
Martin
Martin
It does.
Joseph
Joseph
So I'm cleaning up under the hood and decided to investigate the source of this oil leak. Looked like it was coming in part from the valve covers, so I replaced them.
But then I got to thinking that I should protect some of the wiring with split conduit instead of the copious electrical tape it has now.
Looking at the oil-covered starter wires, the starter, oil pan, and front drive shaft that are covered in oil and dirt, I began to question if all that would come from the valve covers only. Probably not.
So would this likely be an oil pan gasket or do I need to replace the rear main seal as well?
Looking at the oil-covered starter wires, the starter, oil pan, and front drive shaft that are covered in oil and dirt, I began to question if all that would come from the valve covers only. Probably not.
So would this likely be an oil pan gasket or do I need to replace the rear main seal as well?
Flywheel isn’t soaked in the backside. Looks like oil pan to me. But if you look further up the side of the block it’s just as gooey above the pan rail. It could use valve cover gaskets too.
That's what I was hoping for. I should be able to change the gasket without raising the motor off the mounts, yeah?
I've had the back corner of the valve covers leak and cause a mess all over the engine, swap them, pressure wash and go from there.
I think this is the most likely source of my oil leakage.
Nevertheless, I spent way too much time removing the oil pan yesterday. The gasket was a stubborn little devil. Also about half of the oil pan screws were only finger tight. So maybe it was leaking?
Go with the one piece rubber one for the replacement you won't be sorry.
Four bolt main!!! Can you hold back the power?
Martin
Martin
Yep, already picked one up. I'm going to stick it in dry since I'm lazy and reviews are mixed from what I've read on past threads. Some guys dab rtv in the corners, some don't.
There's really no reason not to rig up a 150 shot at this point. She'll hold together
GM 350 Crate Engine Build - Chevy High Performance
Read the tech article on a GM Budget 350 Crate Engine Build, brought to you by the experts at Chevy High Performance Magazine.
This article is 23 years old, but my motor is probably about the same as the crate motor they describe.
What casting numbers would tell me exactly what motor I have?
