CK5
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End of the day:
The factory pinion was a +3, replacement pinion was a +4. My buddy who helped me has a set of bearings with the journal surface ground out just enough to allow the bearing to slip on and off. Made it easy to get the shim stack without having to splice the new bearing off the carrier.
New/replaced today:
4.10 gear
Rebuilt and installed the Power lok
Axle seals
Pinion seals
All internal bearings
New 5-760x shaft joints
Packed the wheel bearings
Still need the steering brace and the passenger side needs new spring bushings. Replace the u joints and lengthen the front shaft.
Boost the steering pump and add a cooler
Then the front will be done
The factory pinion was a +3, replacement pinion was a +4. My buddy who helped me has a set of bearings with the journal surface ground out just enough to allow the bearing to slip on and off. Made it easy to get the shim stack without having to splice the new bearing off the carrier.
New/replaced today:
4.10 gear
Rebuilt and installed the Power lok
Axle seals
Pinion seals
All internal bearings
New 5-760x shaft joints
Packed the wheel bearings
Still need the steering brace and the passenger side needs new spring bushings. Replace the u joints and lengthen the front shaft.
Boost the steering pump and add a cooler
Then the front will be done
Is that a limited slip unit?
Yes and no. These were used in Chrysler and IH applications the same time Ford used Detroits. Intended to work similar, so more aggressive than an LSD.
I suck at stick welding but that's a cool old welder.
Just curious, did you have to heat the axle to weld to it? I need to put new perches on the full float I just got.
No, the welder I have will burn that in without heating it. I have welded perches using a 120v MIG by heating them with a torch first.
What will you be using to weld yours?
A Hobart Handler 140.... I do have a monster of a stick welder though as well.
They're aftermarket ones, nothing stock.
Yeah, I would use stick. Easier to turn down the big welder than need more heat or need to preheat the tube.
I thought tube was just tube? I thought you only had to preheat cast?
I'm no welding expert.... and not trying to be a smart ass.
I'm no welding expert.... and not trying to be a smart ass.
No worries.
Heating something before you weld allows the welder to use more heat in the weld and not heating the area around it. Essentially works like having more voltage, so you can get a smaller welder to get more penetration.
As for cast, I am of no help!
That makes sense to me!
Did you ever get any good measurements for a one piece driveshaft?
Called the driveline shop Saturday. They said at 66" center-to-center is on the edge but they think it's not a problem. Ordered one with 1350 joints, 3.5" diameter i believe.
The concern is the weight, he mentioned aluminum until i made choking noises from my wallet!
The concern is the weight, he mentioned aluminum until i made choking noises from my wallet!
This is mine from weld to weld with a 465/ 208 Slip yoke combo.
Oh I forgot I got a 14 bolt FF
