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The Cummins K30

I upgraded the A/C this weekend to a Vintage Air sure fit evaporator kit. I was dissatisfied with the performance of the other kit I had previously installed. It blew super cold air in the summer, but it has a really small heater core and didn't perform well, even in the mild AZ winters. I plan on moving to South Dakota and I knew the heater wouldn't cut it.

I snapped a couple pix of the evaporator going in. It is a lot larger than the one i pulled out, and it produces much more vent pressure too. I think I'll be happy with it.

IMG_20120225_173307.jpg


This is the one I pulled out. Its almost half the size of the Vintage Air unit.

IMG_20120226_150259.jpg
 
That looks alot better. I am hoping to be able to keep the factory stuff in mine I will have two to play with to get it to work so between the both of them I hope it can.
 
rompinstompinmudmonkey said:
I have only made 40lbs of boost a couple times. I did bark the turbo on one of those occasions though. Twin turbos are hopefully in the near future
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You must have an H1C? Not an H1CW? The lack of a waste gate is letting the boost get that high.

Unless you plan on putting larger injectors and a custom injection pump on, you are a LONG way from having enough fuel for twins, nor do you need twins anyway.

Grab a cheap HX35 with the 12cm housing. It will be waste gated, and with the correct boost elbow on will not let it build pressure past about 32ish pounds. The HX35 is good for 350+HP. If you want something really fancy, a BD Super Bee would be a nice turbo, but you wouldn't notice any gains with it over a stock HX35 with your current power settings, if your buddy is right that you are sitting at 280HP.
 
I have a WH1C with a 12 cm housing. It has virtually the same compressor map as an HX35. I have a boost elbow installed with the set screw almost buried in it, so the wastegate isn't quick to respond. I normally don't build over 30 psi, even when towing, and if I do its only for a split second
 
rompinstompinmudmonkey said:
I have a WH1C with a 12 cm housing. It has virtually the same compressor map as an HX35. I have a boost elbow installed with the set screw almost buried in it, so the wastegate isn't quick to respond. I normally don't build over 30 psi, even when towing, and if I do its only for a split second
Click to expand...
Ah, didn't see that. It spikes to 40 and comes back down right away? I wouldn't see why that would be a problem.
 
What kind of clutch is that? single or dual disk and is it organic? Dont know to much about southbends, use to sell valiars
 
I got the trans and clutch swapped in and am getting ready to go for a test drive when I find that I have no hydraulic clutch pressure. WTF I never took that apart! So I crawl under the truck to diagnose the issue and bleed the clutch. Somewhere during that process the seal in the slave cylinder goes out and starts leaking fluid. Now I'm pissed, its late, ive been working ony truck all day, and I have to leave it at the shop. Tomorrow I'll try to find a new slave cylinder and get the truck back on the road
 
Still not back on the road yet :angry1:

I picked up a new slave cylinder, installed and bled the system. Now the clutch feels great, but.................I can't get the trans into gear while the engine is running. If I shut the engine off it shifts smooth, and if I start it in gear its better, but the clutch isn't fully releasing.

The first thing I did was assume there was still air in the system so i pumped and bled and pumped and bled and pumped and bled some more. I put the rear axle up on jack stands, put the trans in gear, and started the engine. With the clutch fully depressed the back tires slowly started to creep.


After a call to South Bend clutch this morning I determined that my master cylinder cannot push enough volume to fully depress the throwout bearing. While South Bend Clutches have over double the holding power of the OEM clutches, they take less input force from the clutch pedal. This is done by altering the pivot location of the pressure plate fingers. The downside is that the throwout bearing now has to travel slightly farther, and my Wilwood master cylinder just can't move enough fluid to do the job.


After some research, phone calls, and fluid volume measurements, I decided on a Wilwood master cylinder with a 1 1/8" bore x 1" stroke. This should move about 50% more fluid than my current master cylinder, which has a 3/4" bore x 1.4" stroke. Now i just gotta wait for it to show up, and I hate waiting.......
 
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