I didn't mind the exhaust so much, but the police do.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
The Green Machine - parked
- Thread starter noJeepshere
- Start date
need to put a muffler on the yelling lady, your truck sounds fine.
Sounds like a duct tape problem rather than a wd-40 problem
Quick question, i need to redo my front shock mounts, as they're too low. I can either go the easy way and get shorter shocks, or do it the right way and make my shock towers taller.
First way: cut off the current towers and weld in new ones so that the upper mount is 3" higher than before.
Second way: cut the old towers and new ones in such a way that I can raise the mount by 3" when I weld it back together.
Any other ideas?
Also, would it be better to weld or bolt tow hooks to my frame? I have none currently since the ORD kit doesn't provide for them. I was thinking I could cut my old tow hooks at a 45° angle and with some serious grinding, weld them to the front of the spring hanger bracket.
Or, probably the better idea, drill some holes and cut my bumper and have the tow hooks stick out for a while, until Russell's bumper arrives (if it ever does...)
What are your thoughts?
First way: cut off the current towers and weld in new ones so that the upper mount is 3" higher than before.
Second way: cut the old towers and new ones in such a way that I can raise the mount by 3" when I weld it back together.
Any other ideas?
Also, would it be better to weld or bolt tow hooks to my frame? I have none currently since the ORD kit doesn't provide for them. I was thinking I could cut my old tow hooks at a 45° angle and with some serious grinding, weld them to the front of the spring hanger bracket.
Or, probably the better idea, drill some holes and cut my bumper and have the tow hooks stick out for a while, until Russell's bumper arrives (if it ever does...)
What are your thoughts?
There are some pretty good options using f250 shock mounts. Check out this thread https://ck5.com/forums/resources/extended-shock-mounts-with-rancho-shocks.53/
I would bolt on tow hooks for safety sake in case a weld ever fails when you are trying to jerk a truck out or something you don't want that thing flying off like a missile and make sure to use grade 8 hardware.
I'm currently using the F250 shock mounts, but put them on too low by accident. I like that idea of angling the shock mount back like that, I wonder if I can do that on mine...
Yeah, I'm worried about a weld failing so I'll drill some holes.
Yeah, I'm worried about a weld failing so I'll drill some holes.
No real technical stuff, just some camping for the sake of getting out there.
just get out there Riley...you got it man!
I'm all for custom shock mounts....not much more to it than modifying/welding on the ford mounts...and you can custom tailor them to your shocks.
Mine are off the engine cage, but many make a simple hoop and weld to the frame, then do a crossbrace between each side.
I'm all for custom shock mounts....not much more to it than modifying/welding on the ford mounts...and you can custom tailor them to your shocks.
Mine are off the engine cage, but many make a simple hoop and weld to the frame, then do a crossbrace between each side.
hoop it if you have the room
and bolt the hooks
and bolt the hooks
Did this yesterday but couldn't post due to the site being down...
Couldn't stand not having tow hooks anymore since the axle swap brackets don't provide for any, so I fixed that.
Started by removing the entire grill and bumper to access the frame, then decided where to put them
Did some cutting
Some longer bolts and some washers and I'm good to go
Then I had to cut the bumper
Final install
Couldn't stand not having tow hooks anymore since the axle swap brackets don't provide for any, so I fixed that.
Started by removing the entire grill and bumper to access the frame, then decided where to put them
Did some cutting
Some longer bolts and some washers and I'm good to go
Then I had to cut the bumper
Final install
I will say it here also, those look very good. I wouldn't have done them any different.
Nice
Definitely a must. Hell, I had one on my lowered s10.
Definitely a must. Hell, I had one on my lowered s10.
Some pics from my recent road trip.
Very cool. You have a great rig sir.
Nice trip. I love your rig. So are you in Washington I'm guessing? Your avatar says UT.
I've lived in Utah for 3 years now, but I keep the Green Machine registered at my parents address in Washington because they don't have emissions or safety inspection in their town, and thusly it's 1/4 the cost that it would be here. But my insurance agent got on my case recently so I may end up putting Utah plates on it before long...
Yeah got to love Utah for stupid inspections and emissions and high cost registrations.
Yeah, Utah pfff hahahaha
Little update, been chasing a stumbling problem with the motor. It bogs down on hills or moderate acceleration at low revs, but if I get in it and drop a gear it clears up. Spark plugs are new as of last year, distributor cap and rotor are new as of today, as is a fuel filter. The new dizzy parts and filter helped a lot, but it still stumbles when loaded up at low revs, but clears up if it revs. It has a check engine light code for years for O2 sensor issues, mostly for the downstream sensor being out of range occasionally, but it always runs great and fuel mileage never has been an issue. Maybe I should put new ones in, see what that does.
Also, with Keith's help, I did the kingpin bushings, and that made all the difference. No more death wobble. But my steering box has a fair amount of play, Keith showed me where to adjust it, but I'm not sure on the how. Anyone want to chime in on that?
Also, with Keith's help, I did the kingpin bushings, and that made all the difference. No more death wobble. But my steering box has a fair amount of play, Keith showed me where to adjust it, but I'm not sure on the how. Anyone want to chime in on that?
I don't really know how to properly adjust it, so I might have gotten lucky with mine. I pull pitman arm off. Loosened jam nut and loosened adjuster. Sprayed some cleaner around and threaded it in and out to make sure it was free moving. I then ran it clockwise till it stopped with a wrench, but with no force whatsoever. Then gave it about 1/8th turn after. This is with the wheels straight. Rotate the steering wheel and make sure it feels good, like it's not binding through it's sweep. The problem with these boxes is they wear in the center of their stroke. So as you turn each way closer to lock, the gear mesh gets tighter since it's not as worn. Try it
The stumble problem, have you tried spraying cleaner around the TB for leaks? When you get out of cruise, I think the computer tends to pay less attention to the O2 sensors. So a dirty sensor may not matter when you're on it, but will cause the problem while cruising. The MAF will also do this as it's not used other than for cruise. Try unplugging the MAF and drive it. It will probably shift a little different but it wont hurt anything. At least, if the problem persists, you can cross it off the list of sensors.
The stumble problem, have you tried spraying cleaner around the TB for leaks? When you get out of cruise, I think the computer tends to pay less attention to the O2 sensors. So a dirty sensor may not matter when you're on it, but will cause the problem while cruising. The MAF will also do this as it's not used other than for cruise. Try unplugging the MAF and drive it. It will probably shift a little different but it wont hurt anything. At least, if the problem persists, you can cross it off the list of sensors.
There is a stud sticking out of the top with a jam nut. Loosen the nut about a quarter turn, then turn the stud in with an allen wrench, while holding the nut. I go about 1/4 turn, then test. But to test, drive it, don't just shake it back and forth with the engine off. If you go too far, it will be felt while the box is on center.
