Hurry up!
Add says SOLD...I didn`t get to see a pic, was there one of it?
CK5
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The Green Machine - parked
- Thread starter noJeepshere
- Start date
Hurry up!
Add says SOLD...I didn`t get to see a pic, was there one of it?
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Yes. Just a ext cab shortbox two tone green truck. Nothing fancy, standard ol gmt400 stuff. Just was a good deal imo.,
OK cool! Sounded like a deal.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Thats gonna be one long weekend doing a SAS. I hope you plan on starting friday after work and not being done til late sunday. O and a torch will go miles towards saving you time btw.
I always see threads like "O it only took a weekend" or "It was only $800!" Such BS lol, at least trying to do things nice and correct.
I always see threads like "O it only took a weekend" or "It was only $800!" Such BS lol, at least trying to do things nice and correct.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
If your good and skilled and have everything you need, along with a buddy that's skilled. You can pull off a SAS in three days, but the stars need to aline. In my opinion.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Yep. The key is to have everything you need, you're 100% right. It also needs to be all figured out. You're not tearing a front suspension out and r+d'ing brackets etc in that kind of time frame. Well maybe with a plasma table lol.
Also: Another good thing to get ahead on is having the front end rebuilt/ready to go in. Get the tie rod made ahead of time, get the toe set and done, get all the brackets that can be painted done ahead of time. And have plenty of consumables on hand to not go "Ah **** Im out of cutoff discs" etc etc.
Well, I have Keith to help me and let me use his tools, and Eric is coming down to help and he's done several swaps, and I'm proficient with tools, so skill and hands are something I'm not short of for when the time comes to tackle this. I'm hoping for two long days to get the bulk of the work done, then a few weekends to tidy up and get the rest done. The long weekend will be getting the axles under it and back on its wheels and drivable at least around the property and get the measurements for the shocks. By the time they arrive from ORD I will be able the slap them on and happily head down to the tire store.
My point being that there is no reason why you can not put the rear axle in now.
Gets half the work done now.
The shackle flip could be done now also, with or with out changing the axle.
No one is going to notice or care that your rear axle is an 8 lug and your front is a 6 lug.
The gears don't have to match to put the axles in.
You are never going to get everything you need to put them in, some things you won't know that you need until you put the axles in and say wow did not think about that. Just about all of the stuff you may miss is available here locally, if not we can just build it.
Gets half the work done now.
The shackle flip could be done now also, with or with out changing the axle.
No one is going to notice or care that your rear axle is an 8 lug and your front is a 6 lug.
The gears don't have to match to put the axles in.
You are never going to get everything you need to put them in, some things you won't know that you need until you put the axles in and say wow did not think about that. Just about all of the stuff you may miss is available here locally, if not we can just build it.
I have a plan and I'm going to stick to it. 
Got a box today 
Soon enough young man, soon enough.
Soon enough young man, soon enough.
Whose parts are those?
Nothing other than the finest from ORD.
I was gonna say that they look like Riley's parts.
Not sure why that is confusing for you, Adam.
:P
Well played! 
I was gonna say that they look like Riley's parts.
Not sure why that is confusing for you, Adam.
:P
Tech question:
My front Dana 60 has 4.10 gears.
The rear 14 bolt full float has 4.56 gears.
My question is this: which gears do I keep?
This is a daily driver that will see more pavement miles than dirt. I'm going with a 34x10.50/17 tire as I don't want to push a lot of rubber and want to keep the tires under the body. Using a gear ratio calculator I come up with this:
2545 rpm in 3rd gear at 65 mph on 32" tires with 3.73 gears
2929 rpm in 3rd at 65 on 34" tires with 4.56 gears
2633 prm in 3rd at 65 on 34" tires with 4.10 gears
But if I decide on a 35" tire (305-70/17 likely) I get these numbers:
2845 rpm in 3rd at 65 on 35" tires with 4.56 gears
2558 rpm in 3rd at 65 on 35" tires with 4.10 gears
In overdrive everything will run approximately 500 rpm slower, and since I spend a lot of time on the interstate commuting to work, lower revs equal better economy. Or does it? will working a little harder at near stock revs be more efficient or will working not quite so hard a little higher in the range be better?
My front Dana 60 has 4.10 gears.
The rear 14 bolt full float has 4.56 gears.
My question is this: which gears do I keep?
This is a daily driver that will see more pavement miles than dirt. I'm going with a 34x10.50/17 tire as I don't want to push a lot of rubber and want to keep the tires under the body. Using a gear ratio calculator I come up with this:
2545 rpm in 3rd gear at 65 mph on 32" tires with 3.73 gears
2929 rpm in 3rd at 65 on 34" tires with 4.56 gears
2633 prm in 3rd at 65 on 34" tires with 4.10 gears
But if I decide on a 35" tire (305-70/17 likely) I get these numbers:
2845 rpm in 3rd at 65 on 35" tires with 4.56 gears
2558 rpm in 3rd at 65 on 35" tires with 4.10 gears
In overdrive everything will run approximately 500 rpm slower, and since I spend a lot of time on the interstate commuting to work, lower revs equal better economy. Or does it? will working a little harder at near stock revs be more efficient or will working not quite so hard a little higher in the range be better?
For a gasoline engine, you will have greater efficiency at lower speed with higher throttle position. The textbook answer is that you'd want to be always floored at just the right engine speed to give you exactly the amount of power for whatever task you're doing. Nobody actually drives that way, but moving that direction will give you higher efficiency than if you gear for higher power output.
Compromises, Compromises...
