CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

The Green Machine - parked

Full lock:

15a75820852b08a7608392fa10f1c5a4.jpg


Closest approach:

76053c8f5e63ac9d0f2568d03e4f57db.jpg


Full lock:

b67e0dcd87db41e80c422deb00bd74bb.jpg


Closest approach:

c058a09ead704d84c4065eba30c893c0.jpg


Given that leafs don't really travel in an arc, I can easily move the axle back at least an inch.
 
The inside U bolt looks fine, the outside one I'd probably replace. What I've read about is that in general you want full thread engagement - at least 1 thread coming out the other side for full strength. They're relatively cheap for some piece of mind.

There should be half the diameter of the fastener above the nut, minimum.

As for the rear shackle, I don't think a 5" shackle would be the end of the world, and you'd gain a 1/2" painlessly. I understand Stephen's point, but looking at the side view of your truck I can't even see a shackle...it does not appear that a shackle 1" longer would have a big impact.
 
GM suv's could come with both manual and electronic shift t-cases until the gmt800 platform. The np241 case was full manual, the 243 was electronic and the infamous 246 was the auto trac. I had the 246 case and am swapping it for the 241 case tomorrow. The np246 has slip yokes front and rear with no ability to convert to a fixed output, which is what I need for my axle swap. I have modified and rebuilt a 241 with a slip yoke eliminator for the rear output and the front is already a fixed output.
 
You can still get a pickup of any rating (1/2 ton, 3/4 etc) with a manual transfer case. The suv's no longer have a manual option after 2000.
 
You can still get a pickup of any rating (1/2 ton, 3/4 etc) with a manual transfer case. The suv's no longer have a manual option after 2000.

Got it. Most of the SUV's get the full center console, so that makes sense. And the newer push button ones are pretty reliable. Still wish i had a manual shift though. Good upgrade for you!
 
Got the shafts installed, and took it for a little drive to check out the 4wd.

The 241 is a bit shorter than the 246

c1f9a65c449e889bb451bab92428df18.jpg


Rear cv
894df6d68b40e7280031b9cff19b41d1.jpg


Front is a basic 2 u-joint shaft, probably going to do a cv style in the future, it vibrates pretty badly above 30mph

c4cfd4e0337f573578c3700be74fa7c4.jpg


Found a rock to play on:

efae6cdae58f24c5f36d6a84666e8329.jpg


Didn't even come close to the approach angle

879248f9096440bbbf1ad1875ec793c8.jpg



864806a52a68f5e1268248c01ea8767c.jpg
 
The 246 was a royal turd of a t case. Required special fluid, had a tendency to burn up and just an overall wanabe 203. Now the 243s electric shift mechanism is pretty reliable as well, but nothing can beat the hands down mechanical shifters IMO.
 
I am actually glad my 246 lasted so long, means I can sell it for a pretty penny now, many non-offroading types like it. I never used the auto function, it was crap.
 
We sell used 246's for $500-$700 depending on the miles. Of course that's with a 6mo warranty, but that is still crazy money.
 
I hope to sell it for $300 or so, 230k miles with a new actuator motor and no leaks.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom