nicks93kblazer
1/2 ton status
As of right now they lean in maybe 1.5-2 inches which I like but its a pretty tight fit next to the frame. Everything clears though.
CK5
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The Jimmy build, beat and rebuild with very few updates.
- Thread starter ktmoutfront
- Start date
I would leave them there if it clears and run it through it's articulation.
virgilh
1/2 ton status
nice build could i see the steering pics it looks close to the fun buggy in petersons
79chevyk10
1/2 ton status
Very nice!! I would love to bomb in that inbetween trails at the Hammers. 2 questions for ya. How much uptravel to you have front and rear? and Do you have that front D44 heavily trussed? I assume you do, any pics?
Here are pictures of the front end at full droop. From static it runs 7" up and 11" down.
kevin400ex
1/2 ton status
hows it steer at speed with the full hydro setup? most guys run a crossover setup.
im planning on doing the same suspension setup on my blazer later this year after a pismo trip in july.
im planning on doing the same suspension setup on my blazer later this year after a pismo trip in july.
This 3 link will not work with cross over steering. I tried it. To much bump steer to drive it over 30 mph. Full hydro is not recommended for the street. I can drive it at 60 mph on pavement, but an hours worth makes me tired. On dirt it works great. Thats where the truck was designed to perform.
How are the front links mounted to the Axle? I notice that the link bars by the shocks are located above the axle centerline. Is the Triangulated link in front mounted above or below axle centerline on the axle? Also do you have better pics of the Crossmember to support the front links? I checked your album and couldnt see any pics of behind the front axle. Thanks
Top notch build i love the versatility of your blazer
Top notch build i love the versatility of your blazer
Wow your k5 is amazing, I bet it rides really nice. Once I find the money tree I will build a buggy with a 3 or 4 link with coilovers.
How are the front links mounted to the Axle? I notice that the link bars by the shocks are located above the axle centerline. Is the Triangulated link in front mounted above or below axle centerline on the axle? Also do you have better pics of the Crossmember to support the front links? I checked your album and couldnt see any pics of behind the front axle. Thanks
Top notch build i love the versatility of your blazer
The third link is below the axle next to the pumpkin. That is why the bracing is in place in front of the axle. A lot of body roll due to a low roll center. The brace bolts under the cover and to other brackets welded to the long axle tube. All of that is going away soon. A 4 link and panhard bar is going in with the original crossover steering that I built. I want to be able to drive it to work if I want too.
blowedupmotor87
1/2 ton status
Awesome build man! Someday, I would really like to do something similar! WOW!
you had radius arms in the front before. how were they set up?
what heims/ bushings did you use for the arms?
panhard bar heims/bushings?
any pics?
i just wanted to see how it was setup trying to figure out what left you hating them. and what broke? people race with radius arms and they can work(i'm not saying other things wont work). moss bros are an example of r arms in class3 who have won.
"I did not like the way the front end moved side to side as you went through the travel...Now it is 3 linked..." and i think you wrote you're going 4 link, panhard bar with crossover for street driving.
if you go to 4 link with panhard bar it will move side to side just like your radius arms did. yes it will most likely articulate more than the radius arms.
I would think the radius arms have a better street manner then 4 linked running without a swaybar(you said you didnt have room for one)
but anyways just thinking out loud.... i like the idea of 4 link with panhard and swaybar(i would really try to fit it). i wouldnt really be too concerned of axle deflection on the street you're not a indy car and in the dirt you shoudnt really notice it...
hmmmnn actually more that i think about it with your 18 inches of travel your going to have to have a really long pan hard bar to minimize the deflection. so now i see how you felt the axle move so drastically. when you ride through the desert you could strap the front for shorter travel.
some people have success with the "small" travel because the front end will skim across the terrain.
through the 18 inches of travel and longest panhard youd probably get at minimum 3 inches of deflection throuout the entire cycle.
i guess thats why some guys can get away with radius arms , they have bout 12 inches of travel and can be designed to have little movement left and right.
but yea articulations not so great. but i dont know..
..again just thinking a loud...
what heims/ bushings did you use for the arms?
panhard bar heims/bushings?
any pics?
i just wanted to see how it was setup trying to figure out what left you hating them. and what broke? people race with radius arms and they can work(i'm not saying other things wont work). moss bros are an example of r arms in class3 who have won.
"I did not like the way the front end moved side to side as you went through the travel...Now it is 3 linked..." and i think you wrote you're going 4 link, panhard bar with crossover for street driving.
if you go to 4 link with panhard bar it will move side to side just like your radius arms did. yes it will most likely articulate more than the radius arms.
I would think the radius arms have a better street manner then 4 linked running without a swaybar(you said you didnt have room for one)
but anyways just thinking out loud.... i like the idea of 4 link with panhard and swaybar(i would really try to fit it). i wouldnt really be too concerned of axle deflection on the street you're not a indy car and in the dirt you shoudnt really notice it...
hmmmnn actually more that i think about it with your 18 inches of travel your going to have to have a really long pan hard bar to minimize the deflection. so now i see how you felt the axle move so drastically. when you ride through the desert you could strap the front for shorter travel.
some people have success with the "small" travel because the front end will skim across the terrain.
through the 18 inches of travel and longest panhard youd probably get at minimum 3 inches of deflection throuout the entire cycle.
i guess thats why some guys can get away with radius arms , they have bout 12 inches of travel and can be designed to have little movement left and right.
but yea articulations not so great. but i dont know..
..again just thinking a loud...
Sorry it took so long. I did not see the post. I do not have good pictures of the initial build on the front end.
Heims at the back of the arms, neo. bushings on the front top and bottom.
Panhard bar, heim at frame and bushing at the axle. Bar was level at static. At full droop i had 2.25 inches to the right. Full compression was .5 inches to the left. Almost 3 inches. Did not notice anything on the street. Was easy to drive. The lack of articulation is was tore it off of the truck. Ran great at 50mph in the desert. Went down a was at 5mph and tore the right arm mount off of the frame.
Heims at the back of the arms, neo. bushings on the front top and bottom.
Panhard bar, heim at frame and bushing at the axle. Bar was level at static. At full droop i had 2.25 inches to the right. Full compression was .5 inches to the left. Almost 3 inches. Did not notice anything on the street. Was easy to drive. The lack of articulation is was tore it off of the truck. Ran great at 50mph in the desert. Went down a was at 5mph and tore the right arm mount off of the frame.
Just found this thread and what a great build it has given me a few ideas for my next project, a 91’ burb with a 454, 4l80e with about 6” of lift. I’m looking at doing some sort of 3 or 4 link front suspension so I can run the beach (Padre Island National Seashore) with out getting bounced around so much. Thanks for the info.
later
Trey
later
Trey
badmix
1/2 ton status
Nice build up. , Im basically going with a less fabbed version of 4x4 pre runner on my Blazer. Im going with the deaver springs and some good shocks, I didnt think about the sway bar til I read this thread. Ive got mine still attached and have had it off, I like the tighter feel with it on, but do most pre runners and street/dirt trucks have them? I never really thought about it. Without it, would it make the suspension absorb better (less felt on the driver?).
, Im basically going with a less fabbed version of 4x4 pre runner on my Blazer. Im going with the deaver springs and some good shocks, I didnt think about the sway bar til I read this thread. Ive got mine still attached and have had it off, I like the tighter feel with it on, but do most pre runners and street/dirt trucks have them? I never really thought about it. Without it, would it make the suspension absorb better (less felt on the driver?).
Nice build up.
If you are daily driving it. Leave the sway bar. If it is dirt only, works better without it.
nicks93kblazer
1/2 ton status
I'm going start the cage/rear suspension phase on my build and I was wondering if you have gotten the cargo area sealed off from the elements where the rear shocks come through the floorboard? Trying to figure something out so I can keep the truck pretty streetable still.
Yes, but it looks like crap. I was learning how to work sheet metal at the time.
nicks93kblazer
1/2 ton status
hmm...yeah sheetmetal was kinda what I was thinking so far. not really sure what else I could do that with 
The other option was fiberglass sheets, then form the round areas.
