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The Mistress 1982 K10 (Rockwell Mud Slut)

I redid it last night. Sun was coming up when i walked inside.
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I think it looks pretty sweet
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Not much of an update. Been too tired in the mornings (noon-ish) to go out and work on the truck. So heres the list of incoming goodies.


Incoming parts list includes
1. Diy4x double ripper beadlocks (15" wheel)
2. Diy4x shackle flip kit
3. Diy4x spring plats (dana 60)
4. Ridged Industries dually led lights
5. Smitty built xrc 10k winch
6. (250) steel lock nuts (needed 128 for the beadlocks. So i bought extra)
7. (300) steel zinc washers (needed 256 for beadlocks. Again bought extra)

Still waiting to ger the beadlocks in so i can figure out my bolt length.
 
Not much of an update. Been too tired in the mornings (noon-ish) to go out and work on the truck. So heres the list of incoming goodies.


Incoming parts list includes
1. Diy4x double ripper beadlocks (15" wheel)
2. Diy4x shackle flip kit
3. Diy4x spring plats (dana 60)
4. Ridged Industries dually led lights
5. Smitty built xrc 10k winch
6. (250) steel lock nuts (needed 128 for the beadlocks. So i bought extra)
7. (300) steel zinc washers (needed 256 for beadlocks. Again bought extra)

Still waiting to ger the beadlocks in so i can figure out my bolt length.

Do yourself a favor with that winch and seriously consider cutting 20' or so of cable off of it. They've got a lot of big cable on the drum, and any pull where you cant watch it and help it spool correctly will likely end in breaking the cross ties and will eventually lead to failure. Mine just failed the other day. Pulled it out of the bumper in 3 pieces. Mine was mounted feet forward, broke the lower (out of sight) cross tie on the second or third pull. The second tie got broke a few months later during a snow storm, I was too cold to keep spooling out the winch and rolling it up neatly on the drum to keep it from stacking up and breaking the ties.

That being said it worked flawlessly pulling my 8,000 pound dodge and numerous other vehicles out with the cross tie supports broken out for two years. I finished it off pulling a buried to the frame mega cab cummins out of a hole. I had to go home and get the bulldozer after the winch gave up. They work very well. I'm fairly certain with a new foot and cross tie mounts mine will be good as new.
 
Do yourself a favor with that winch and seriously consider cutting 20' or so of cable off of it. They've got a lot of big cable on the drum, and any pull where you cant watch it and help it spool correctly will likely end in breaking the cross ties and will eventually lead to failure. Mine just failed the other day. Pulled it out of the bumper in 3 pieces. Mine was mounted feet forward, broke the lower (out of sight) cross tie on the second or third pull. The second tie got broke a few months later during a snow storm, I was too cold to keep spooling out the winch and rolling it up neatly on the drum to keep it from stacking up and breaking the ties.

That being said it worked flawlessly pulling my 8,000 pound dodge and numerous other vehicles out with the cross tie supports broken out for two years. I finished it off pulling a buried to the frame mega cab cummins out of a hole. I had to go home and get the bulldozer after the winch gave up. They work very well. I'm fairly certain with a new foot and cross tie mounts mine will be good as new.


I'll be starting on my winch mount soon XRC10 as well. Would you recommend feet forward for the mount?
 
I'll be starting on my winch mount soon XRC10 as well. Would you recommend feet forward for the mount?

I prefer it. It might make the control box mounting a little difficult if you've got a tight space, the leads from the motor to the box are pretty short and it's intended to be mounted across the cross ties, which will be facing the radiator if you mount feet down. I just kind of wedged my control box in between the motor and the bumper. I planned on building a bracket, but it worked and it was out of sight, so it stayed like that for years. The winch pulls hard, it just seems like feet forward is the better way to go about it.

That being said, my friend has the same winch mounted feet down in a Ranch hand front replacement and he's had zero problems with it being mounted that way. I wouldnt go out of my way to mount it feet forward if I didnt have the room. If I were building a front bumper and I had the room I would mount them feet forward. Thats a lot of pull on those four small bolts.
 
I prefer it. It might make the control box mounting a little difficult if you've got a tight space, the leads from the motor to the box are pretty short and it's intended to be mounted across the cross ties, which will be facing the radiator if you mount feet down. I just kind of wedged my control box in between the motor and the bumper. I planned on building a bracket, but it worked and it was out of sight, so it stayed like that for years. The winch pulls hard, it just seems like feet forward is the better way to go about it.

That being said, my friend has the same winch mounted feet down in a Ranch hand front replacement and he's had zero problems with it being mounted that way. I wouldnt go out of my way to mount it feet forward if I didnt have the room. If I were building a front bumper and I had the room I would mount them feet forward. Thats a lot of pull on those four small bolts.


Good to know.
 
I prefer it. It might make the control box mounting a little difficult if you've got a tight space, the leads from the motor to the box are pretty short and it's intended to be mounted across the cross ties, which will be facing the radiator if you mount feet down. I just kind of wedged my control box in between the motor and the bumper. I planned on building a bracket, but it worked and it was out of sight, so it stayed like that for years. The winch pulls hard, it just seems like feet forward is the better way to go about it.

That being said, my friend has the same winch mounted feet down in a Ranch hand front replacement and he's had zero problems with it being mounted that way. I wouldnt go out of my way to mount it feet forward if I didnt have the room. If I were building a front bumper and I had the room I would mount them feet forward. Thats a lot of pull on those four small bolts.

:thumb: Thanks for the insight! At leasr now i know im not crazy foe buying it! Haha i plan on mounting mine feet forward as well due to tight spacing.
 
:thumb: Thanks for the insight! At leasr now i know im not crazy foe buying it! Haha i plan on mounting mine feet forward as well due to tight spacing.

We've had very good luck with them lugging our heavy Cummins Rams around. You wont be disappointed. Just keep an eye on the cable bunching on one side of the drum. One good pull and you'll see what I'm talking about.

I was a little surprised to find T-MAX stamped on the inside foot casting. I've always heard good things about them. Just didnt expect the smitybilt to be a rebrand.
 
We've had very good luck with them lugging our heavy Cummins Rams around. You wont be disappointed. Just keep an eye on the cable bunching on one side of the drum. One good pull and you'll see what I'm talking about.

I was a little surprised to find T-MAX stamped on the inside foot casting. I've always heard good things about them. Just didnt expect the smitybilt to be a rebrand.

Haha ive had my cummins pulled out before. They're no lightweight. Im going to take your advice and shorten the cable.

That is strange, but i did read a good review on t-max winches in four wheeler. So either way it sounds like a good deal. Im excited to see it perform
 
Looks sooo sick!!
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cant wait to get em on and see the finished product.

On a side not. Im also biying a set of DIY4X heavy duty FUSH brackets. And moving its location to a better spot. My shackle angle blows....
 
The rings are made to be offset from each other. They just look like 1 ring. Notice the singular bolt?

Huh... Why? lol. Ive never had beadlocks nor do I really understand them but why not just cut it out of one ring? Or is one on the inside of the bead or something? :dunno:

I feel like an artard :haha:
 
Huh... Why? lol. Ive never had beadlocks nor do I really understand them but why not just cut it out of one ring? Or is one on the inside of the bead or something? :dunno:

I feel like an artard :haha:
One is welded to the inside of the lip on the wheel and the bead sandwiches between it and the outer ring. The claws are just asterics.
 

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