CK5
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The Purple Camaro

I think from a drivability standpoint hydro is the answer. Cheating the leverage as much as I could the pedal effort was terrible in the mechanical realm. At the end of the day I want to enjoy driving the car, and that made the decision for me. It's still a man pedal, even if a child could use it...:whistle:
 
We’ll see how this goes. I haven’t figured the applied force measurements to push the clutch in. Gonna set it up and push and see
 
Making progress. Having to do conversion things. Making sure everything is lined up properly and done right. Probably have to rebuild the driveshaft loop for clearance

Clutch pivot and bell crank is in
 
Shot of the crossmember holding this whole mess up in the back. Hopefully :saweet:

View attachment 437143
Whenever I see those G force crossmembers for street/strip cars, I always think, all the G force is down with those behemoths.

How much does it weigh?

I think you should make your own, you could do better I am sure of it.
 
It is fairly heavy, but I have nothing to gain by building one. It clears the exhaust and bolts up nice. Plus it’s powder coated
 
You are correct, nothing to gain, but how much do you have to lose? ;) (Meaning on both vehicle scale and your ET slip!)

I have no affiliation with these guys, it just looks a lot lighter?...but depending on how much that one actually weights will determine if its worth it or not.

Tubular crossmember

It appears Hurst makes one too...according to my Holley document it weights 7.7 lb shipping weight, not exactly a lightweight chrome moly unit, but has to be a lot lighter than what appears to be 3/8" thick steel plate?

Hurst Model
 
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It’s 100 lbs per .10 Et

So I could gain .0077 seconds by eliminating
It

I think my wallet being lighter would gain more.
 
Although 100 lbs per .1 is the rule of thumb I have always used (you can type it in my app you have if you want a more accurate result, because it depends on your ET how much it helps, but that is very close for decent street car)

However, you are eliminating the lighter one in your .0077 calc, the hurst one weighs 7.7 lbs. That one you have had to be way heavier than that, looks like it weighs 40 lbs or something?

Now I agree, lbs/$ is a good factor. I made my own crossmember that weighs probably 2 lbs with $10 in material, and my own seat brackets. engine plates, etc. Saved some weight for not much money. But an alumimum block was another $4k, $4k for 100 lbs is 40 $/lb, a LOT of cost. I went with iron to save a lot of money.

But yes ultimately you have to decide how much its worth to you. Did you put the g force on a scale? Maybe its not as heavy as it looks. To me it looks like a lot of weight...

And the lighter one....
clears the exhaust and bolts up nice. Plus it’s powder coated
 
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Nah, that G force is 15 or so pounds max. Probably added 40+ in the scattershield and flywheel :haha:

Doing some maths before with Rene, figure I’m close to our G/SA weight of 3270
Added fuel and scattershield
Subtracted weight and ballast, close to 100 going away from iron heads and intake. Lightest Camaro I had was my ‘68. Rollbar and subframes, full sized tank. Glass hood and Aluminium top half on the engine. It routinely scaled 3080 with no interior.

No way I get more than 50 out of this car and still be within the HRDW rules. Lower weight limit for my class is 3200, and my butt is most of the overage
 
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