The RedBurb

[campfire]

Still seems like there’s enough room to put the 6.2 balancer on the 6.5 crank, but alas, I must follow instructions. It’s a 6.5 block, with a 6.5 crank, with a 6.5 reluctor, so it requires a 6.5 balancer.

But still...if it won't fit tightly on there, what exactly is going to keep it from sliding inward and wrecking that aluminum timing cover?

Also, your truck still has the stock timing chain, unlike the example engine you showed. That SHOULDN'T make a difference, but I'd hate to overlook a potential opportunity to overthink things more thoroughly...

 

[AugustDiesel]

But still...if it won't fit tightly on there, what exactly is going to keep it from sliding inward and wrecking that aluminum timing cover?

Also, your truck still has the stock timing chain, unlike the example engine you showed. That SHOULDN'T make a difference, but I'd hate to overlook a potential opportunity to overthink things more thoroughly...

Perhaps .... my measurements ... are wrong ...

I dunno. I talked with Leroy more and he was adamant that if I put the 6.2 balancer on, the pulley would be WAY out of alignment and I’d never get the belts on. Like you suggested earlier.

What I gather is this: with the reluctor wheel in place, the shorter 6.5 balancer will butt right up against the reluctor. If there was no reluctor, then the 6.2 balancer would actually press INTO the timing cover against the gear. I suppose there is always the option of removing the timing cover and deleting the reluctor wheel, but I don’t want to get into all that right now. And the 6.2 balancer is already on its way back to rock auto. I suppose if I ever swap from a timing chain to a timing gear, THEN I could delete the reluctor and run a 6.2 balancer.




And it just hit me.

My measurements ARE wrong.

The 1.5” or so of crankshaft extending from the timing cover HAS to account for MORE than JUST the balancer shaft, it HAS to account for the balancer itself, also. The end of the crank has to be flush-ish with the face of the balancer. So let’s remeasure:




So that’s roughly 1.5” from the reluctor to the end of the shaft, then let’s add another .25” or so for the beveled edge of the shaft, to be joined with the 6.5 balancer that measures 2” - 2 1/8” to the seating surface of the bolt/washer. Relatively minimal difference IMHO, if any difference at all in reality.

The 6.2 balancer would have been at least 3/4” too long if not more.

So there ya go. That’s what I get for being a goof and measuring the wrong area.

 

[campfire]

So that’s roughly 1.5” from the reluctor to the end of the shaft, then let’s add another .25” or so for the beveled edge of the shaft, to be joined with the 6.5 balancer that measures 2” - 2 1/8” to the seating surface of the bolt/washer. Relatively minimal difference IMHO, if any difference at all in reality.

The 6.2 balancer would have been at least 3/4” too long if not more.

So there ya go. That’s what I get for being a goof and measuring the wrong area.

Excellent. Yes, the crank snout needs to be the same length as the inside mounting surface of the balancer (so the bolt will be completely buried in the crankshaft, with no exposed shank). Your earlier measurements made it look like it wouldn't be touching the reluctor ring. More importantly, it needs to be tight against the timing sprocket, or that will also be able to walk around the shaft. As long as all your schtuff is tight you will be fine. Even if you did have it open at a later point, I don't think there's any benefit to switching balancer styles. Just keep the reluctor ring on there and you'll be fine. It's just a spacer, as far as you're concerned.

I am a little surprised, after all this thinking, that you're not changing the timing chain and water pump while you're in here. You're soooooooo close...

 

[AugustDiesel]

Excellent. Yes, the crank snout needs to be the same length as the inside mounting surface of the balancer (so the bolt will be completely buried in the crankshaft, with no exposed shank). Your earlier measurements made it look like it wouldn't be touching the reluctor ring. More importantly, it needs to be tight against the timing sprocket, or that will also be able to walk around the shaft. As long as all your schtuff is tight you will be fine. Even if you did have it open at a later point, I don't think there's any benefit to switching balancer styles. Just keep the reluctor ring on there and you'll be fine. It's just a spacer, as far as you're concerned.

I am a little surprised, after all this thinking, that you're not changing the timing chain and water pump while you're in here. You're soooooooo close...

Lol ... you’re right, I am pretty close, but, I also need to get this truck back up and running in time for a trip to see may parents next weekend. It’s getting cut pretty close, as my time is running short this week.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Speaking of time running short, I’m at a stand still for the next couple of days:

- seal arrives tomorrow, but I need a seal puller to get the old one out, and that doesn’t arrive until Thursday (screwdriver didn’t work).

- was going to reinstall my injector lines, but I want to clean them off first and the cleaner doesn’t arrive until tomorrow.

- and I’m waiting on a 6.5 balancer now which hopefully will arrive later this week.

Not to be outdone, I moved on to a different project:




Would not make much of a difference to some people, but it makes a huge difference to me!

 

[AugustDiesel]

Slight progress today.

New crank seal is in.

Correct balancer has arrived.

Got fuel lines # 5, 6, 7, and 8 reinstalled.



Today is a short day. Tomorrow should be able to get the harmonic balancer installed during lunch. Then it’s date night.

Saturday, the whole day will be committed to getting as much done as I can:

- reinstall fuel lines 1, 2, 3, and 4.
- reassemble engine topend less intake manifold
- drop transmission pan and install new gasket.
- prime power steering pump.
- refill power steering fluid
- refill coolant
- refill engine oil
- refill transmission fluid
- reinstall and tighten all belts
- remove epr junk from exhaust manifold.

...

......... okay that seems like a pretty short list. Maybe I’m closer than I thought. Seems like I’m forgetting something ...

Next week I’ll get the intake manifold installed, got some minor work to do on the headlight harness, adjust headlights, paint and install the rear side drip rails, and this thing should be ready for a little road trip.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Managed to snag a few minutes and get the balancer cranked on.

 

[AugustDiesel]

200 ft lbs ain’t no joke

 

[AugustDiesel]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but the balancer pulley bolts get torqued down to 35 ft lbs correct?

 

[AugustDiesel]

Harmonic balancer and pulley are in, and the injector lines are all in too. Tomorrow will primarily be focused on resealing the transmission pan and some other odds and ends.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Now I just have to figure out where these three connectors go. I don’t remember unplugging anything on the passenger side of the engine, but I also don’t remember them just hanging there either. Any ideas?



I know these connectors on the driver side went to the EPR and EGR solenoids, which I am ditching according to @campfire ...



Which if I am not using them, I will have to figure out how to keep vacuum for the AC ...



Time to ponder ....

 

[campfire]

Now I just have to figure out where these three connectors go. I don’t remember unplugging anything on the passenger side of the engine, but I also don’t remember them just hanging there either. Any ideas?

View attachment 294808

I know these connectors on the driver side went to the EPR and EGR solenoids, which I am ditching according to @campfire ...

View attachment 294809

Which if I am not using them, I will have to figure out how to keep vacuum for the AC ...

View attachment 294810

Time to ponder ....

The two weatherpack connectors went to the stock box-style fuel filter assembly (which you don't have anymore). The third one might, too. But I don't remember for sure. The only electrical thing that should be on that lonely corner of the engine is the temperature switch down in the head (which doesn't use that style of connector).

Look up pictures of the Stanadyne housing, if you don't have yours anymore.

 

[campfire]

Which if I am not using them, I will have to figure out how to keep vacuum for the AC ...

Simply plug off the lines you're not using. I used a spare bolt, threading it into the end of the unused line. There are more sophisticated blockage methods, but it doesn't need to be overly complicated.

 

[campfire]

My truck originally had a light-duty 6.2 with cruise control, heated fuel filter, air conditioning, emissions solenoids, and a 700R4. After deleting emissions, switching to a conventional filter, upgrading to an NV3500, and (temporarily?) removing the dead A/C compressor, I wound up using less than HALF of the wiring that originally ran to this drive train.

Cruise is coming back, though. I just needed to find a functional solenoid.

 

[AugustDiesel]

The two weatherpack connectors went to the stock box-style fuel filter assembly (which you don't have anymore). The third one might, too. But I don't remember for sure. The only electrical thing that should be on that lonely corner of the engine is the temperature switch down in the head (which doesn't use that style of connector).

Look up pictures of the Stanadyne housing, if you don't have yours anymore.

You are correct on the temperature switch and I already have it reconnected.

I could hang bells from these loose connectors and then I would have wind chimes ...

 

[AugustDiesel]

So while I have the transmission pan off, I inspected my TV plunger per @Greg Ducato ‘s advice, because I have had issues with the early shift and the shift points getting thrown off under full throttle. Looks to me like the plunger is not being depressed enough. Any thoughts on how to correct this? Assistance courtesy of my five-year-old son

 

[AugustDiesel]

Got my tv plunger issue resolved. At least I think I did. Won’t really know until I get the truck fired up and test drive it.

Transmission pan is resealed.

Rewired the headlights so that the full bulbs come on with in respective low beam and high beam modes, instead of all 4 half bulbs at low beam and all 4 full bulbs at high beam. Still need to be adjusted.




Went to auto zone and picked up engine oil, trans fluid, PS fluid, and coolant.

Still waiting on some parts to finish up my air intake. Should have those by Monday. Then put all that together.

Still got to delete the EPR stuff, and plug the vacuum lines.

Still got to prime the PS pump, fill the fluids, and pull the GPs to get the air out of the fuel lines.

Then I should be able to crank this thing up after almost 4 months.




I put out these lists mainly to keep myself on track and accountable.

Andy

 

[campfire]

Still got to prime the PS pump, fill the fluids, and pull the GPs to get the air out of the fuel lines.

Pulling the GPs won't help with bleeding the air, aside from making it easier to crank. It's much more helpful to crank with the injector end of each line loose until fuel starts leaking out. Then shut them and the engine should start on the next round of cranking. You don't even need to crack all of them, really. If you get 4 or 5 cylinders firing they will drag the other 3 with them.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Pulling the GPs won't help with bleeding the air, aside from making it easier to crank. It's much more helpful to crank with the injector end of each line loose until fuel starts leaking out. Then shut them and the engine should start on the next round of cranking. You don't even need to crack all of them, really. If you get 4 or 5 cylinders firing they will drag the other 3 with them.

Now that you mention it, I remember reading that somewhere a while back. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Guess what broke again...



Upper AC Compressor support bracket...

Anyone got a spare I can buy off of you??? Need it pretty quick ....