Thanks! Once I get mine off (have to take the fan off first) I’ll compare it to this and see if it looks the same.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Thanks! Once I get mine off (have to take the fan off first) I’ll compare it to this and see if it looks the same.
Fan shrouds seem to be a pain in the butt always, at least the few I've had to do. The ones you can find never fit right if you can even find one. I bought one from Rock Auto once for a '79 K10 with a small block and it had to be trimmed and I ended up extending it with some copper sheeting to get it to be close enough to the fan to work properly. It turned out nice.
I think I have a spare OEM 6.2 shroud still. I definitely have a 6.5 shroud (same radiator, different shroud mounts). Been tripping over it for at least five years. 
I think I have a spare OEM 6.2 shroud still. I definitely have a 6.5 shroud (same radiator, different shroud mounts). Been tripping over it for at least five years.
I probably need a 6.2 since it’s a 6.2 setup?
Either way, it definitely looks the same as the 454.
Deconstruction is complete. Waiting on parts to show up now.
Andy
The 6.2 fan shroud is specific to the 6.2 because the radiator is 34 inches wide.
Hard to find also.
Hard to find also.
Shroud looks OK in that picture. Is it cracked?
Mine cracked and I epoxyed it, works just fine.
Mine cracked and I epoxyed it, works just fine.
Yes it’s cracked and some of the mounting tabs are broken off
If you have the pieces it might be worth trying to save. Could try a plastic welding kit.
Unfortunately I don’t. No idea how long the bottom mounts have been gone
This. I'd break out the epoxy & fiberglass and replace the missing material. That shroud looks fine. The tabs can be rebuilt with some patience.
I'm not trying to talk you out of a sale (
), I'm just telling you what I would do.
I figured while the parts waiting drags out, I’d post up how my shocks turned out. The replacement passenger shock from ORD arrived and I was able to get it installed during lunch.
They are Bilstein 5125 shocks mounted on Ford extended shock towers and diy4x knuckle/tube shock tabs.
Personally, I think they are compressed too much. Only 5-6 inches extended on either side. The driver side, I’ll admit, is compressed more because the truck is leaning toward the driver side, which could be because my driveway is sloped.
The over compression could be because of how the tabs were mounted closer to the top of the tube, which is about all that appeared to be available at the time. But, as @stan1688 pointed out, looks like another inch can be gained by redrilling the holes closer to the axle tube. If not, new tabs may be in order.
Other than the over-compression, I’m happy with how they turned out.
They are Bilstein 5125 shocks mounted on Ford extended shock towers and diy4x knuckle/tube shock tabs.
Personally, I think they are compressed too much. Only 5-6 inches extended on either side. The driver side, I’ll admit, is compressed more because the truck is leaning toward the driver side, which could be because my driveway is sloped.
The over compression could be because of how the tabs were mounted closer to the top of the tube, which is about all that appeared to be available at the time. But, as @stan1688 pointed out, looks like another inch can be gained by redrilling the holes closer to the axle tube. If not, new tabs may be in order.
Other than the over-compression, I’m happy with how they turned out.
Some sheet metal photography. I can tell that this radiator support is not as thick gauge of steel as the original, but I think it will still get the job done. Mocked it up to see how it looks. Not too shabby.
It’s been a long productive weekend. The truck is looking like a truck again. Suspension is repaired. Front clip is installed. All aluminum radiator mostly installed. The PSC box is leaking from the tip of the input shaft so I pulled it and will ship to PSC tomorrow for a full rebuild per their direction. Picked up some nice doors. They need paint but otherwise are in excellent shape. There are some alignment issues with the passenger fender and hood, which is likely due to the bent frame. Still have a lot of work to do but this is good progress. I’m happy with how it’s turning out and think I’m even liking the white. I’m definitely digging the Custom Deluxe 20 emblem. I should get a matching one for the passenger side shouldn’t I? Yes. I should. 
Andy
Andy
Nice! Gettin it done!
Great work!
I was just thinking, you probably need to add a sacrificial anode in the radiator. I think @AgDieseler put one where the radiator drain is.
Agreed. I remember that issue he had. Just went back to page 13 of his build thread and read through that again. Adding it to my to do list. Thanks for the tip.
I’m sure I’ll be showing my ignorance with these next two questions, but hey I’m learning ...
Perhaps I may already have one? I pulled from my old radiator and reinstalled into the new radiator what looks identical to this (but with a wire attached to it). I assumed it was a temp sensor, and it likely is, but worth asking:
Next, is there any rhyme or reason to where the anode is installed? I’m seeing a lot of options for sacrificial anode radiator caps, as well as, the drain plugs.
The wire would be to ground the radiator. I don't know much about it or sacrificial anodes but all radiators in semis have a ground wire from the radiator core to the housing they are mounted in always.
Could be except when I trace the wire it runs up and into the firewall ...
