CK5
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The RedBurb

Every Part Is Replaceable
I do not have a 180* die for my bender, so when I build a hoop it has to be a two piece deal. I had always wanted some kind of tie in plate, but by the time I finished this first version, I was flat too worn out to cut it out myself.

“Work smarter and not harder”, they say. I guess sometimes that means outsourcing work to people with better equipment than you have. I tapped @stan1688 for the tie in plate as well. Shane designed our company logo, so it was relatively easy work to come up with an abbreviated version that could be cut into this tie in plate. The finished product is outstanding and worked out perfectly.

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Welding around curves and long stretches is not my forte, but I’m happy with how it turned out.

Of course, to get the rig hinging off the main tube, the license plate had to be relocated. We tapped Shane again for another plate to locate the license plate to the tire rack, which also doubles as another tie in plate.

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The final task for the weekend was locating the Hi Lift Jack mounts. I’ve always had my Jack mounted on the pillar above the barn doors inside the cab. It’s a decent out of the way spot but that Jack makes a ton of noise. So my original goal was to get the Jack out. Here, I cut out my own tie in plates, cut down and positioned the original Jack mounts from the pillar and burned it all in. It’s the perfect spot.

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The finished produce from the weekend is something I am thoroughly pleased with. The good weather has helped tremendously, and the overall experience has been one that left me enjoying the process.

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Good things are planned for the week ahead.

Andy
 
Looks good.

Just so my CDO does not flair up. If you are adding the side angled braces from the vertical tubes to the outer tubes again, please line the tubes up with the interior cross bracing.
 
Looks good.

Just so my CDO does not flair up. If you are adding the side angled braces from the vertical tubes to the outer tubes again, please line the tubes up with the interior cross bracing.

Fortunately for your CDO I won’t be adding the side angled braces back. What you see above is the finished product.
 
Looks really good! :waytogo: Are you working on your power clean and press exercises at the gym. That's going to be some weight to lift up there into place.

Not to worry, I’ve got something in the works to help with that, had been in the back of my head and on the shelf for the last year and a half and finally about to come to fruition.
 
I will divulge all my secrets in due time, promise. :wink:

I may even go ahead and spill the beans in case there’s something someone else thinks of that I am not, but in the meantime, there’s another hurdle to overcome before I can focus my mind on the lifting mechanism.

Reconstruction is not totally complete.

I knew from the beginning that moving the tire rack to the top of the bumper, without any modifications to the rack itself, would result in the tire being somewhat high. I just wasn’t sure how high. Well, yesterday I mocked it all up and the top of the tire is higher than the roof line. I’m sure in general it would be okay, but that’s just not what I wanted and I need to get this right this time around, so the rack is going back under the knife today.

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Ignore the strap, it’s temporary.

The plan is to cut the tire hoop loose from the bumper hoop and pivot further around to end up with more of a 90ish angle rather than a 45ish. The length of the legs is also excessive so they’ll get cut down between the bushings and the gussets.

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Wednesdays are short days for me so the most I’ll likely be able to get done is the cutting and cleaning/prepping, then it’ll get reassembled tomorrow.

I’ve also been looking for over a week for some full thread 9/16-18x3” bolts to use to mount the tire to the rack. They either don’t exist or are impossible to find, so I made my own.

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Andy
 
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I will divulge all my secrets in due time, promise. :wink:

I may even go ahead and spill the beans in case there’s something someone else thinks of that I am not, but in the meantime, there’s another hurdle to overcome before I can focus my mind on the lifting mechanism.

Reconstruction is not totally complete.

I knew from the beginning that moving the tire rack to the top of the bumper, without any modifications to the rack itself, would result in the tire being somewhat high. I just wasn’t sure how high. Well, yesterday I mocked it all up and the top of the tire is higher than the roof line. I’m sure in general it would be okay, but that’s just not what I wanted and I need to get this right this time around, so the rack is going back under the knife today.

View attachment 391463View attachment 391464View attachment 391465

Ignore the strap, it’s temporary.

The plan is to cut the tire hoop loose from the bumper hoop and pivot further around to end up with more of a 90ish angle rather than a 45ish. The length of the legs is also excessive so they’ll get cut down between the bushings and the gussets.

View attachment 391468

Wednesdays are short days for me so the most I’ll likely be able to get done is the cutting and cleaning/prepping, then it’ll get reassembled tomorrow.

I’ve also been looking for over a week for some full thread 9/16-18x3” bolts to use to mount the tire to the rack. They either don’t exist or are impossible to find, so I made my own.

View attachment 391466

Andy
Why do you need full length threads?
 
Why do you need full length threads?

I probably don’t need “full” length, but longer than the standard so that the tire can bolt down. I used 5/8 “tap” bolts last time. Tap bolts are full thread, but 5/8 is too big, not really even sure why I used that, just went off the sizing of the wheel mount hole I guess. But we all know wheel studs are 9/16-18 and I wanted to match that, but I could not find 9/16-18 tap or full thread bolts anywhere.

Problem solved.
 
I probably don’t need “full” length, but longer than the standard so that the tire can bolt down. I used 5/8 “tap” bolts last time. Tap bolts are full thread, but 5/8 is too big, not really even sure why I used that, just went off the sizing of the wheel mount hole I guess. But we all know wheel studs are 9/16-18 and I wanted to match that, but I could not find 9/16-18 tap or full thread bolts anywhere.

Problem solved.
Ok now I see where you are using them and I get it.
I had the same problem on my car dolly and I got some grade 5, those come in full thread, but they were too soft and they ripped off within a couple of months.
 
Ok now I see where you are using them and I get it.
I had the same problem on my car dolly and I got some grade 5, those come in full thread, but they were too soft and they ripped off within a couple of months.

I could not even find full thread in grade 5.
 
This is the goal and preference for where the tire should end up by the time this is all said and done, but spaced out from the doors better to make room for the yet-to-be-revealed lifting mechanism.

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And much to my dismay, this hood needs yet more work. Not sure if it’s cheap “stainless steel” or if the paint scraped off when we put the bolts in. Probably both.

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Andy
 
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