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The restoration/modification of Daisy.

Overview Gallery Discussion
She looks much better without that body lift in there. The complete mounting kit from LMC worked out great. Hey rust belt guys, check this out.


Rear shock mount, before removing the body lift.


Goodbye ****ers!! Anyone got any ideas for a good use for these?
 
y5mgisi said:
Why don't you want to run an original one?
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Because all the linkage is long gone, I trashed it all planning to run a floor shifter but this is much less work. I still do t want a column shifter but I want the damn thing running and driving.

kgblazerfive said:
from experience, you should gusset the angle iron that the trans mounts too.



It will bend
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Yep, I'm ordering gussets today. This weekend I'll notch the crossmember and throw in about 6 gussets.
 
muddysub said:
i'm sticking this here for future reference. beats the hell out of installing a floor shifter.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-aca-1804/overview/
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I got one of those to put on my blazer, and the mounting bracket that goes around the column wouldn't fit as intended. The firewall was in the way.

I also ended up modifying the bracket that mounts to the column lever.

This is the best pic I have of it:

8189127974_453fd7b4b7_b.jpg



As you can see, I had to zip-tie it to somewhat hold it in place (it was still sloppy). Yea, the cable is broke. That's what happens when the insert the cable threads onto can't pivot. :doah:



I thought I had found a picture of a rig that was in the 73-87 body style that had a similar cable shift linkage, but I'm not finding it now. My guess is fabricating those brackets to fit your application is going to be the best option (at least the brackets that mount to the column and selector lever).
 
Myself personally, I would just run to the junk yard. Get a whole setup off a truck with a 700r4. Couldn't cost more than a few bucks and should be plenty of them in there.
 
The restoration/modification of Daisy... [wiring and tire decisions]

I got the other crossmember built today, still need to add gussets to both but they're in there.
redane8a.jpg


I have a question for anyone that's done a belly pan type setup like I'm trying to do. How much room should I have between the transfer case and the skid plate? As is, the bottom of the square tube is only 1/16"-1/8" below the case. That's doesn't leave any room for things to shift around. I'm thinking I'll have to do a steel plate with a hole cut in it to make room for the case and some 1/2" UHMW (Delrin) under that. If I do 1/4" steel it'll leave me with a nice solid skid and 3/8" or so between the plate and the case.

We (my friend is helping with wiring) also started wiring the engine and ****.
 
muddysub said:
Rear shock mount, before removing the body lift.


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So did you just simply remove the load sensing brake proportioning valve deal or bipass it somehow? Looks like all your brake lines are run the same minus the proportion valve
 
COCHEV said:
So did you just simply remove the load sensing brake proportioning valve deal or bipass it somehow? Looks like all your brake lines are run the same minus the proportion valve
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The prop valve is there, there is no arm on it connecting it to the axle right now. I'm gonna grab another one from a junkyard to connect it.
 
I have one on my suburban. I believe it's what some of the other guys are saying where is proportions some of the brake bias but also I believe it's also to keep slack in the brake line when flexing the suspension. It's really nice to keep the brake lines out of the way of the drivetrain when your flexing on the trail
 
The restoration/modification of Daisy... [wiring and tire decisions]

I'm trying to stay busy on Daisy as much as possible right now, she's getting so close. Yesterday I was waiting on parts so I did a little body work. I got most of the drivers rear quarter panel stripped and primed. Also got the little piece that goes under the grille stripped and primed. When I was done I went inside and ordered 10 more stripper wheels.
tematugu.jpg


Today some parts from DIY4X came in, 4.5" shackles and ten 90* gussets for my crossmembers.
y8e8a7u8.jpg

So I installed the shackles today to get rid of the Hill4WD shackles and that last inch of lift to set the front end at 5". I need some slightly longer bolts it seems, 1/2" will do it. I wanted to get rid if the 25yr old OEM bolts in my front springs. All the new parts under here really makes me hate my front springs. I've always wanted better springs anyway, these things might be going away.
a8yjeryg.jpg


abu9ebud.jpg


Final ride height, 5" of lift.
aju5ery8.jpg


Anyone want some 6" cross tied shackles? Drilled for 9/16" bolts, 3/8" thick sides.
pe5uzeju.jpg
 
y5mgisi said:
Looks way better! It was pretty tall for a while.
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Yeah she was way too tall. It's still 1" low in the back and my rear springs are pretty beat because the driver side is an inch lower than the passenger side. Eventually I'll have four new springs underneath this truck and it'll sit level.
 
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