CK5
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The restoration/modification of Daisy.
- Thread starter muddysub
- Start date
What's left to replace at this point? Evaporator?
The two evaporators and the hard lines from front to rear are the only original parts left on it. I actually think it's leaking at the high-pressure port out of the compressor. I've got service port adapters between the compressor and the hoses, the other day I noticed a drip of green oil coming off of one of the fittings.
That would be a leak 
Dont give up hope it will work
Dont give up hope it will work
Kain
3/4 ton status
put some die in and find the leak....
Roll down the windows and stop bitching 
That would be a leak
Dont give up hope it will work
Thanks, I'll get it right someday.
Already did, my uv light is pretty weak (old, actually) so I'll have my friend look at it with his.
Roll down the windows and stop bitching
Says the guy that lives in the frosty white north...
Kain
3/4 ton status
use the green goo crap i did works without a uv light but dies everything green for a couple of months
Man that sucks.... I know its too damn hot out there to be riding with no a.c.. hope you can get it figured out soon [emoji53]
I had some parts rolling in this week. Today the 45° bend for my side branch resonator showed up. So I went out to the garage, measured, cut and mocked up the placement for it. I adjusted the math a little bit, I increased it to 2600 RPM which gave me a quarter wave length of 21 1/4". I still need to cap the end, the local metal shop I buy steel from sells decorative iron work parts, I've seen round end caps there, I'll have to see if they have them in 2.5".
Here it is.
I got it to fit pretty well for using a grinder.
It's going to split off the pipe right behind the muffler near the rear driveline. I've got it marked, I'll have to remove the exhaust to weld it in but that's ok. It's tucked up toward the floor, the rear driveline should never hit it, the axle would have to be hitting the frame to let that happen.
My DIY4X diff covers are here also. Hopefully the front one clears the tie rod.
Here it is.
I got it to fit pretty well for using a grinder.
It's going to split off the pipe right behind the muffler near the rear driveline. I've got it marked, I'll have to remove the exhaust to weld it in but that's ok. It's tucked up toward the floor, the rear driveline should never hit it, the axle would have to be hitting the frame to let that happen.
My DIY4X diff covers are here also. Hopefully the front one clears the tie rod.
So... whats the pipe for ?
Reduce resonance at a certain rpm
I feel your pain brother. Just remember it could be worse...like 16k worse in my case...lol.
Yeah! I agree. If you're caught running AC at Blazer Bash you have to wear the pink hat...Roll down the windows and stop bitching
Been there, man. But, I'm going to hold you to cruising The Strip in May '16, whatever truck you have.
David
Haha! I'll explain that to my wife and see how that goes over.
Come on out, maybe by then I'll have mine painted and we can cruise the strip scaring hybrids before we convoy up to the black rock desert.
I wanted to get my vintage air setup before the bash, but I don't even have a running engine yet.
I wanted to get my vintage air setup before the bash, but I don't even have a running engine yet.
I've thought a lot about vintage air, maybe that would be a better way to go.
I'm planning on Vintage Air since my truck never had AC. When I finally get it, it will be okay to use AC at the Bash.
My factory R134a AC only blows about 25F below ambient, and I've tinkered with it at length. I, too, have considered Vintage Air (made in San Antonio, TX) or Restomod Air (made in Grapevine, TX). But, they sure are proud of their product.
David
