Now he's having issues with my flex fuel sensor. I never tested it with anything other than regular pump gas (~e10) and it will occasionally read 9.7ish but usually reads zero. I just assumed it couldn't read properly below 10%...
The 250 amp mechman says it's good for high RPM use.This was a 220 amp PowerMaster.
WOT shift point is currently at 6500, but he was running it out to 7500 on the dyno.
I've had good luck with PowerMaster, but I'll look at other options too. There's a ton out there.The 250 amp mechman says it's good for high RPM use.
So far mines doing good.
Fake campfire stories around Moab.
Didn't know he did them.
LOL, the tradition lives on.Fake campfire stories around Moab.
I even brought it home.LOL, the tradition lives on.

At the hubs, but close enough.Thats not bad at the wheels.
.The tuner also recommended a Mechman alternator.The 250 amp mechman says it's good for high RPM use.
So far mines doing good.
They're honestly only a little more expensive than the PowerMaster alternators I was looking at. It says in their descriptions that they're good for racing applications "above 5000 rpm". I'm hoping that means 7000 if I get one. I may ask them if I need to run a bigger pully so I don't fry it.They're pricey, but from all I've seen online, good quality.
In the stereo world, they're king.
I've had an off idle stumble I've been fighting that they cleaned up. I had it driving pretty good before, but it seems a bit smoother now. They tune at 500rpm intervals so the whole curve should be nice now. I think I need to turn off learning and closed loop at idle, with the rumbly cam I think it's missing and reading falsely lean so it keeps adding fuel. I'll get it sorted out then it comes back.Those numbers are a far cry from what GM put in there.
How's the part throttle, street driving manners?