CK5
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The Shop Truck

1971 Chevy C20 with a custom flat bed.
Now he's having issues with my flex fuel sensor. I never tested it with anything other than regular pump gas (~e10) and it will occasionally read 9.7ish but usually reads zero. I just assumed it couldn't read properly below 10%...
 
This was a 220 amp PowerMaster.
WOT shift point is currently at 6500, but he was running it out to 7500 on the dyno.
The 250 amp mechman says it's good for high RPM use.
So far mines doing good.
 
I will preface this by saying they were in the middle of moving shops and their office manager is out this week on top of that. Their communication was a bit poor and they forgot to take the dyno pull video I asked for. Not a big deal considering.
I am very happy with the results, I want to do a compare between my old tune and new one to see exactly how much they changed it, I'll probably download that later. On the short drive home it seems smoother and you can definitely feel the additional power.
It ended up costing just over $1500 with the 10 gallons of e98 plus shop time for replacing the alternator and troubleshooting the flex fuel sensor. I'm not sure exactly what was going on with that, but they had to move it to a completely different connector on the Dominator. It was just reading erratically where I had it plugged in and they couldn't figure out why.

The plan now is to take it to the Midnight Drag's at Firebird on Saturday and start progressing with the nitrous. 100hp on the first run and bump it up 50hp every run after that. Hopefully I can get 3 or 4 runs in at least, they shouldn't be too busy since it's so hot out.
 
They're pricey, but from all I've seen online, good quality.
In the stereo world, they're king.
 
They're pricey, but from all I've seen online, good quality.
In the stereo world, they're king.
They're honestly only a little more expensive than the PowerMaster alternators I was looking at. It says in their descriptions that they're good for racing applications "above 5000 rpm". I'm hoping that means 7000 if I get one. I may ask them if I need to run a bigger pully so I don't fry it.
 
I was talking to a dude from them online and was asking about pulley changing their 400 amp.
Dude got all upset about why would I do that, just buy a 250 amp and call it good.

I wasn't happy with his attitude. Wasn't until after that that I seen their 250 amp and the fact that it was good for high RPM.
He still handled the situation wrong.
It was an honest question. Hopefully he's not a real representative of what the rest of them are like.

I honestly wanted to know if I did the under drive pulley on the 400 amp, would it be a decent 330 or something. I wanted more than 250.
 
Adding a bigger pulley wouldn't reduce the output of the alternator at speed, only at idle. They don't need to be spinning max speed to make max output. A 400 amp alternator with a bigger pulley would still make 400 amps.
 
Those numbers are a far cry from what GM put in there.

How's the part throttle, street driving manners?
I've had an off idle stumble I've been fighting that they cleaned up. I had it driving pretty good before, but it seems a bit smoother now. They tune at 500rpm intervals so the whole curve should be nice now. I think I need to turn off learning and closed loop at idle, with the rumbly cam I think it's missing and reading falsely lean so it keeps adding fuel. I'll get it sorted out then it comes back.

WOT it spins the tires on the 1-2 shift, so that's fun (and loud).
 

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