Awesome, sounds like they did some good fine tuning instead of just looking for numbers.
You said they're moving - where they moving to?
You said they're moving - where they moving to?
CK5
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They're expanding into the space next to them, they had already moved the dyno over but are in the middle of getting everything sorted out.
I have an off idle issue too. But only when changing from park to gear.
Been thinking about taking it to a tuner about a half hr from me.
Need the cash first.
I'm surprised they didn't shut off learn. Once it's tuned that should be done.
Been thinking about taking it to a tuner about a half hr from me.
Need the cash first.
I'm surprised they didn't shut off learn. Once it's tuned that should be done.
They don't usually shut it off, but they'll limit how much it can change things, usually 5% on learn and CL comp. Honestly I haven't looked at the tune yet to see what they did there. They may have already turned that off at idle.
I just looked, he turned off the learn table. CL is still set to 50% correction though.
The new alternator is already struggling, it's barely putting out 13.2V. I ordered a MechMan 240Amp billet racing alternator, hopefully it lasts.
Little surprised the graph line is wavy like it is, although I'm assuming its because it's a nitrous cam.
It's not really a nitrous cam anymore, but it does have a bit more exhaust overlap than most.
The plan was to go to the midnight drags tonight at Firebird, but plans changed unfortunately.
We got the new MechMan alternator and got it installed, along with making a much larger charge wire and ground.
With that taken care of, I needed to figure out how to swap the nitrous jet at the back of the intake manifold. The vacuum reference line I have going to the fuel pressure regulator and MAP sensor was in the way so I removed it, and fuel poured out of the line.
Apparently the Motion Raceworks/Fluidworks regulators aren't as resistant to ethanol as they said. This is my first tank of e-anything other than standard pump gas (e10). The silicone is delaminating from the fabric on the diaphragm.
The rubber/silicone is flaking off too, thankfully that's on the intake side so I don't think it got into my fuel injectors.
We got the new MechMan alternator and got it installed, along with making a much larger charge wire and ground.
With that taken care of, I needed to figure out how to swap the nitrous jet at the back of the intake manifold. The vacuum reference line I have going to the fuel pressure regulator and MAP sensor was in the way so I removed it, and fuel poured out of the line.
Apparently the Motion Raceworks/Fluidworks regulators aren't as resistant to ethanol as they said. This is my first tank of e-anything other than standard pump gas (e10). The silicone is delaminating from the fabric on the diaphragm.
The rubber/silicone is flaking off too, thankfully that's on the intake side so I don't think it got into my fuel injectors.
I haven't heard of MechMan before. What is their story?
I had never heard of them before either, but they were recommended by my tuner and @shady here. They make high quality high amperage alternators for car stereos and racing purposes (there is an ultra 4 car on the box). They claim they can handle extended runtime above 5000RPM. That will be important at Willow Springs.
Dyno runs to 7500 and a 6500rpm shift point at WOT killed my PowerMaster.
The PowerMaster I was running was about $380 for a 220Amp alternator. The MechMan equivalent was about $430 for a 250amp alternator. I went one more step and got their billet racing alternator (240amp) for $499.
I did start it briefly to test the alternator, it immediately went to 14 volts so I shut it back down. My Autozone special was down to about 13.2V on startup.
Never thought about an alternator having issues at a constant high RPM, but it makes sense.
The tuner stated it's pretty common to have them fail on the dyno.
I wonder what Nascar cars use for alternators?
If you're only running at high RPM you can just put a bigger pully on the alternator to slow it down, but doing that will drastically reduce how much amperage it can provide at idle. Since mine is street driven primarily I need something that can do both.
Big pulley stuff like the mechman. I remember reading somewhere that the alternator is the most common component failure in nascar.
David
Motion had to talk to their engineers about the issue I had. Apparently this is the second one they've had fail like this and they think they got a bad batch.
They're sending me a new one free of charge along with a spare I'm paying for and a free t-shirt. I see so many people on youtube using the Motion regulator, I knew it had to be a fluke. It just sucks that I missed the test and tune session, the next one isn't until the end of August.
They're sending me a new one free of charge along with a spare I'm paying for and a free t-shirt. I see so many people on youtube using the Motion regulator, I knew it had to be a fluke. It just sucks that I missed the test and tune session, the next one isn't until the end of August.
Sorry for the lack of updates recently. I've actually been working on the truck for the last couple weeks. Physical therapy is going well and I'm able to use my right arm more so I decided to tackle some wiring. I'm not sure if everyone has this issue, but on my custom rigs once they get built they tend to have a lot of circuits added on for things I didn't plan on originally. This truck was probably the worst case of that so it had inline fuses and relays all over the truck (with no labels of course).
I started by cataloging all the different circuits and decided I would run power distribution in 3 locations in the truck (besides the Painless harness). I've finished 2 of the sections, but I'm waiting on a custom relay box from Leash Electronics.
The first area I addressed was the mess by the battery. I unfortunately forgot to take a before picture, but you can see it in the background of the alternator picture above so here it is zoomed in.
I replaced the battery clamps with some nice Moroso ones and replaced the bus bar with an MSD SSR box.
The Recoil box is a 3 fuse box to supply power to the MSD relay, the relay box at the back of the truck and to a bus bar under the center console. The MSD is controlling the 2 16" fans on the radiator which are now programmed to soft start with PWM over 3 seconds, it also controls the Nitrous solenoid (PWM there too) and the condesor fan (no PWM).
At the back of the truck I installed a "True Mods" relay box for loads at the back of the truck. It controls the nitrous heater blanket, the fuel pump, power for the airbag ECU, trans cooler fan (now controlled by the Dominator), and a relay for an oil cooler that I'll add at some point.
Previous to that, there were inline fuses coming off the 4 gauge wire I had supplying power to the air compressors. Of course I forgot to take a picture of this too.
I have been wanting to add a canbus switch panel, but Holley doesn't make that cheap or easy. The only way to do it is to buy the RacePak PDU and switch panel and wire it in to the Dominator. The $2500 price tag made me do this with relays instead, especially since I'd need a spare since it's not serviceable in the case of a failure. I still wanted some physical switches rather than relying on virtual switches in my Holley Pro Dash. I picked up some nice looking switches on Amazon and installed them in the center console. They're all wired to the ECU, but I've only got 2 programmed currently (Nitrous enable and purge).
I did some rewiring inside the cab under the center console, but it's still a mess of wires, relays and inline fuses while I'm waiting for the relay panel. I did mount bus bars wired directly to the battery for power and ground in this location to keep the Holley computer, dash, and coilpacks happy.
I started by cataloging all the different circuits and decided I would run power distribution in 3 locations in the truck (besides the Painless harness). I've finished 2 of the sections, but I'm waiting on a custom relay box from Leash Electronics.
The first area I addressed was the mess by the battery. I unfortunately forgot to take a before picture, but you can see it in the background of the alternator picture above so here it is zoomed in.
I replaced the battery clamps with some nice Moroso ones and replaced the bus bar with an MSD SSR box.
The Recoil box is a 3 fuse box to supply power to the MSD relay, the relay box at the back of the truck and to a bus bar under the center console. The MSD is controlling the 2 16" fans on the radiator which are now programmed to soft start with PWM over 3 seconds, it also controls the Nitrous solenoid (PWM there too) and the condesor fan (no PWM).
At the back of the truck I installed a "True Mods" relay box for loads at the back of the truck. It controls the nitrous heater blanket, the fuel pump, power for the airbag ECU, trans cooler fan (now controlled by the Dominator), and a relay for an oil cooler that I'll add at some point.
Previous to that, there were inline fuses coming off the 4 gauge wire I had supplying power to the air compressors. Of course I forgot to take a picture of this too.
I have been wanting to add a canbus switch panel, but Holley doesn't make that cheap or easy. The only way to do it is to buy the RacePak PDU and switch panel and wire it in to the Dominator. The $2500 price tag made me do this with relays instead, especially since I'd need a spare since it's not serviceable in the case of a failure. I still wanted some physical switches rather than relying on virtual switches in my Holley Pro Dash. I picked up some nice looking switches on Amazon and installed them in the center console. They're all wired to the ECU, but I've only got 2 programmed currently (Nitrous enable and purge).
I did some rewiring inside the cab under the center console, but it's still a mess of wires, relays and inline fuses while I'm waiting for the relay panel. I did mount bus bars wired directly to the battery for power and ground in this location to keep the Holley computer, dash, and coilpacks happy.
