CK5
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It's not gett
By default, the SmoothBoost just moves opposite of the throttle position, opening when you close the throttle and shutting as you open the throttle. It also has a PWM input that I added so I may not need the TPS input at all and maybe I can just use the PWM signal to control it however I want.
I figured out the starting issue, looks like I'm not getting crank signal again. I replaced that wiring as it was burnt, but for some reason it's giving me an intermittent signal. I had a ton of issues with the crank sensor when I first got this engine running too.
I'm not the first person to use this system, so I'm not that worried about it. I'll figure it out. Unfortunately the Holley can do +12V, Ground, PWM +, and PWM - output signals, it can't generate a 0-5V signal.
By default, the SmoothBoost just moves opposite of the throttle position, opening when you close the throttle and shutting as you open the throttle. It also has a PWM input that I added so I may not need the TPS input at all and maybe I can just use the PWM signal to control it however I want.
I figured out the starting issue, looks like I'm not getting crank signal again. I replaced that wiring as it was burnt, but for some reason it's giving me an intermittent signal. I had a ton of issues with the crank sensor when I first got this engine running too.
I've seen the shared signal mess a lot of stuff up at work. One thing draws more than the other, etc.
And since it's already messing with the auto set, it's doing SOMETHING it shouldn't is what I was getting at lol.
If it works it works. But with it causing issues with auto set, I'd say it may do more than you think when it's actually running
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There are modules you can use that convert 12v signals down to 0-5. We use them at work for 24v to 0-5. Both sides are adjustable.
There has to be something out there.....?
But if you can make it work...
And since it's already messing with the auto set, it's doing SOMETHING it shouldn't is what I was getting at lol.
If it works it works. But with it causing issues with auto set, I'd say it may do more than you think when it's actually running
.There are modules you can use that convert 12v signals down to 0-5. We use them at work for 24v to 0-5. Both sides are adjustable.
There has to be something out there.....?
But if you can make it work...
The issue is that I need the Dominator to put out a 0-5v signal that varies based on throttle position, this is the same signal that the ECU reads from the throttle pedal.
I pulled a system log, crank signal looks good, but there's no cam signal. That reminded me that I went from a gen 3 to a gen 4 and I needed to flip the wires on the cam sensor 
. It runs! It's missing real bad for some reason, but all 8 cylinders were warming up. I'm going to put water in the radiator and intercooler systems before I run it anymore.
. It runs! It's missing real bad for some reason, but all 8 cylinders were warming up. I'm going to put water in the radiator and intercooler systems before I run it anymore.
The new mufflers are WAY quieter, it's making me hear noises in the engine that I could never hear before. We just finished the first heat cycle, it's cooling down now. It seems like it's going to need a bit more idle speed to compensate for the blower.
Where is the video!!!! Even if it runs like chit we need to hear fire In the pipes
Thinking I need to quiet my exhaust when the supercharger goes on, but I want to hear both. Right now it’s the size of a 12oz beer can and a tall can wide.
Well, I've got a video, it's actually running pretty good now. But something weird happened and I'm not quite sure what's going on. We ran it through one heat cycle until the fans kicked on and shut it down. After it cooled, we added some more coolant as it had pulled some in and kicked the idle up so it would run better. We were watching it heat up and suddenly it started boiling over and overflowing the coolant reservoir. I shut the truck off and turned it back on and realized that the gauge (hooked up to the passenger side head) was reading 250 while the sensor hooked the the ECU was only at 165.
I'm not sure WTF is going on, but the passenger side head isn't cooling properly. We started it up again and it started shooting up in temp right away.
I'm not sure WTF is going on, but the passenger side head isn't cooling properly. We started it up again and it started shooting up in temp right away.
Air bubble?
I hope so
Add air down through the hose going to the top/front of the water pump.
Mine did that every time I had the engine out, until I started putting water in that way too.
I fill the res, and then pour some down that tube. Basically to prime the water pump I think..
Not sure, but when I do it that way, it cools correctly right off the bat.
Mine did that every time I had the engine out, until I started putting water in that way too.
I fill the res, and then pour some down that tube. Basically to prime the water pump I think..
Not sure, but when I do it that way, it cools correctly right off the bat.
I vacuum bleed the system, so that shouldn't be an issue. How would that cause only one side to get hot though? We verified with my flir that one side is getting way hotter last night.
I never had an issue with the ls truck pump, are you using the Vette pump too?
This is the new head I bought and had to send back to Smeding for machining (1/2" studs). I started the engine with it, but it never got up to temp before I heard the piston slap. I'm wondering if they plugged the water passages and left a plug in.
I never had an issue with the ls truck pump, are you using the Vette pump too?
This is the new head I bought and had to send back to Smeding for machining (1/2" studs). I started the engine with it, but it never got up to temp before I heard the piston slap. I'm wondering if they plugged the water passages and left a plug in.
I didn't feel like messing with the video last night, but here it is. I know Shady is going to comment on the whine, but honestly before I saw the video, I didn't realize it was whining like that. I couldn't hear it at all from inside the cab.
The whine is the best part. Let's people know there's something hiding under that hood.
My wife and I agree, but @shady doesn't.
So here's where I say "I'm an idiot" again... For two different reasons!
First off, I went out, vacuum bled the coolant system 3 times, and got a little more water to go in. Then I started it and watched it run for a bit, then checked the coolant temps. The ECU said it was 47F while the gauge was reading 100F+. Now I live in AZ so I know the coolant temp isn't 47 and yesterday I had the same issue that was caused by the wrong coolant temp sensor being selected in the tune and I fixed it, but here it was broke again... I downloaded the tune and noticed the name on it was from a tune I made on 3/19/26, last month, missing all the changes I've made since then... Somehow last night we uploaded the wrong tune and overheated the snot out of the engine because the fans never turned on.
On the bright side, that means nothing is wrong with the cooling system. I double checked and uploaded the correct tune and started the truck. About the time it hit 160F the belt started shredding. I shut it down and it became apparent that the 240 Amp racing alternator does not have the same offset as the 370Amp one that came with my kit.
Now I have a mess to clean up and I need a new belt, but I think the engine is fine at least, so I've got that going for me.
Sounds so good, the wine is the best part. Sucks on the belt, I have done that on the tune before.
All I had to check mine heat wise was the single stock location on the driver's head.
The first time it happened I thought "air bubble" about the time it hit 200, so jumped in and drove it around a half block loop. That kind of helped
The next time I tried that and it got pretty hot, but didn't seem to help. After it cooled I seen that hose (truck pump) and thought "hey, that's the highest spot, more air would come out.!"
It started up and never did it...
When I put the 454 in. I was excited and just filled the res again. It got hot, so I shut it down, managed to get more coolant in, and tried again after while.
It hit 260 before I caught it and shut it off.
I was freaking out thinking I just killed $15k before I even drove it.
Remembered the top hose deal, did that and it took a BUNCH more coolant.
Started right up and cooled fine.
No idea if it's coincidence or what. But that's how Ill fill it from now out lol.
The first time it happened I thought "air bubble" about the time it hit 200, so jumped in and drove it around a half block loop. That kind of helped
The next time I tried that and it got pretty hot, but didn't seem to help. After it cooled I seen that hose (truck pump) and thought "hey, that's the highest spot, more air would come out.!"
It started up and never did it...
When I put the 454 in. I was excited and just filled the res again. It got hot, so I shut it down, managed to get more coolant in, and tried again after while.
It hit 260 before I caught it and shut it off.
I was freaking out thinking I just killed $15k before I even drove it.
Remembered the top hose deal, did that and it took a BUNCH more coolant.
Started right up and cooled fine.
No idea if it's coincidence or what. But that's how Ill fill it from now out lol.
That whine seems more muted. And you don't have any cog belt on it. So with an intake on, and all that, it may mute it more.
Didn't seem as dentist drilly lol.
I need to hear one in person.
Maybe I'll get to if I manage to make the power tour.
Didn't seem as dentist drilly lol.
I need to hear one in person.
Maybe I'll get to if I manage to make the power tour.
