CK5
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We didn't make it as far as I was hoping today. I was just going to do a quick cleanup on the interior wiring, but we decided we really needed to go through it all. This was shortly after we started.
This is why I was bitching about the Holley harness. It's way too long for some runs and in order to clean this up properly I'd have to completely rebuild the harness, that's not happening right now. We spent about 6 hours rerunning wires, unpinning things, bundling them, etc. It's not going to look great, but it will look better than that.
Other than that, we got the brakes bled, and I installed the steering wheel.
We've got a couple of switches that aren't working properly that we need to fix in the morning, then we need to run all the A/C hoses and put the dash back together, install seats, install the hood and it's good to go.
This is why I was bitching about the Holley harness. It's way too long for some runs and in order to clean this up properly I'd have to completely rebuild the harness, that's not happening right now. We spent about 6 hours rerunning wires, unpinning things, bundling them, etc. It's not going to look great, but it will look better than that.
Other than that, we got the brakes bled, and I installed the steering wheel.
We've got a couple of switches that aren't working properly that we need to fix in the morning, then we need to run all the A/C hoses and put the dash back together, install seats, install the hood and it's good to go.
After liking at the Holley the builders harness seems may suiting. But I’m not sure I want to do that. I just want to go.
Wow that made no sense
You drunk?
If you smell burnt toast, call the Amberlamps!
Yet you didn't clarify what you were trying to sayWow that made no sense
.I'm assuming you were trying to talk about their unterminated harness kits. For 70% of the price you get 1/20th the connectors!
If you've ever tried to find the right connectors that you'd need to finish those kits, you'd quickly realize how difficult it would be to go this route. Not only do you have to find the connectors, but you need to figure out which pins you need and any seals or locks (they don't come together unless you order them from someone that builds kits and marks the price way up). Then you'd need to figure out what tools you need to properly install each of these pins and connectors. I figure it would only cost about $2000-3000 to go that route, but it would take a ton of time to find everything you need.
Yes that was what I was trying to get out.If you smell burnt toast, call the Amberlamps!
Yet you didn't clarify what you were trying to say
I'm assuming you were trying to talk about their unterminated harness kits. For 70% of the price you get 1/20th the connectors!
If you've ever tried to find the right connectors that you'd need to finish those kits, you'd quickly realize how difficult it would be to go this route. Not only do you have to find the connectors, but you need to figure out which pins you need and any seals or locks (they don't come together unless you order them from someone that builds kits and marks the price way up). Then you'd need to figure out what tools you need to properly install each of these pins and connectors. I figure it would only cost about $2000-3000 to go that route, but it would take a ton of time to find everything you need.
I only figured it out because I read it last night when I was also drunk and it made sense...
I did have a few beverages and have been having issues with my hands.
It drives! Amber cleaned up most of the interior wiring, I'm so sick of it I didn't want to touch it. It's not great, but it's a huge imprivement. I'll be making sides for the center console to make this issue disappear.
While we were cleaning up the wiring, I noticed that there was a wire that was pulled out of the connector on the EGT box. It was the white 12V output wire going back to the next device on the canbus (a terminator right now which is why there wasn't an issue). I pulled the pin and replaced it connecting both wires in and now it doesn't work. That's tomorrows problem.
We finished the wiring, reassembled the interior, then installed the hood. I painted the underside of the hood and we got new hinges to finish off the engine bay glow up.
The battery was dead by the time we got back from our short drive, turns out the black anodization doesn't conduct electricity. I ran a separate ground cable like I was supposed to anyways and we're good to go now.
While we were cleaning up the wiring, I noticed that there was a wire that was pulled out of the connector on the EGT box. It was the white 12V output wire going back to the next device on the canbus (a terminator right now which is why there wasn't an issue). I pulled the pin and replaced it connecting both wires in and now it doesn't work. That's tomorrows problem.
We finished the wiring, reassembled the interior, then installed the hood. I painted the underside of the hood and we got new hinges to finish off the engine bay glow up.
The battery was dead by the time we got back from our short drive, turns out the black anodization doesn't conduct electricity. I ran a separate ground cable like I was supposed to anyways and we're good to go now.
How did it drive? Did you hit it a little?
I hit it. The smooth boost did a great job at taking the fun out of it. We topped off the trans fluid, checked the oil, and checked for leaks. We added a quart of trans fluid, fixed the alternator problem, remapped the dbw (it was rowdy) and took it to dinner the long way.
On the freeway I did one of the break in pulls (2/3 throttle, 2nd gear to 7k, off throttle engine break. Oil pressure dropped to zero. I have the ECU pressure sensor and a separate vdo gauge/sensor, botha at zero...
We took the next exit and shut it off as quick as we could, no oil leaks, plenty of oil on the stick, no glitter visible from the oil cap... Restart and back up to 35psi at idle. No idea what that was about.
On the freeway I did one of the break in pulls (2/3 throttle, 2nd gear to 7k, off throttle engine break. Oil pressure dropped to zero. I have the ECU pressure sensor and a separate vdo gauge/sensor, botha at zero...
We took the next exit and shut it off as quick as we could, no oil leaks, plenty of oil on the stick, no glitter visible from the oil cap... Restart and back up to 35psi at idle. No idea what that was about.
What’s the ecu pressure sensor?
I have two oil pressure sensors, one in the factory location that is connected to the ECU, and one for my gauge that is on the port on the side of the block right at the discharge of the pump. They were both reading zero until I shut it off for a few minutes.
I just want to mention that the only thing that has changed internally to the engine is the windage tray. It has new bearings, one new piston, new rings, old pump, old pickup, new windage tray. Amber and I spent quite a while modifying the tray and oil pickup to get the proper clearance to the oil pan. We're really at a loss to what happened.
After dinner we started it back up and had 60psi at idle, just like before even with the 160° oil temp.
After dinner we started it back up and had 60psi at idle, just like before even with the 160° oil temp.
I'll apologize now, but I should have taken a video/audio. The blower whine is epic, WOT is attention grabbing, the exhaust is so quiet, it's weird.
I'll get something posted tomorrow.
I'll get something posted tomorrow.
Only thing I can think of that would stop oil flow is
A. The pickup O ring cracked. Which can cause pressure to come and go. Or pickup loose..
B. If there was any tube mods..... Cracked spot there
C. Cover bolts on the pump were accidentally left loose after clearance setting.
All 3 can cause the pump to cavitate. Only takes a quick shot of air to do so.
When the engine stops and sit, oil runs back down, priming the pump again.
Also, shouldn't make a difference with the current issue, but a lot of people forget to have the gasket in play when setting the pickup clearance on an LS.
A. The pickup O ring cracked. Which can cause pressure to come and go. Or pickup loose..
B. If there was any tube mods..... Cracked spot there
C. Cover bolts on the pump were accidentally left loose after clearance setting.
All 3 can cause the pump to cavitate. Only takes a quick shot of air to do so.
When the engine stops and sit, oil runs back down, priming the pump again.
Also, shouldn't make a difference with the current issue, but a lot of people forget to have the gasket in play when setting the pickup clearance on an LS.
I think these have a regulator in the pump. Possibly coulda got hung up. Pretty weird.
The only thing I can think of is high RPM(lots of oil in the heads) + engine breaking(oil sloshing forward)=loss of suction.
What I don't understand is why it didn't come back until I shut the engine off. This is the same break in procedure I used on the last engine and I don't think I had this issue, but maybe I just wasn't looking. At some point (I can't remember exactly when) I made a "warning light" on my holley pro dash that flashes "LOW OIL PRESSURE" in bright red covering 3/4 of the screen any time the oil is below 10psi. I was watching the RPM as I accelerated to 7K, let off the throttle and looked back at the dash and it was flashing, double checked the other gauge and it was also at zero. It stayed at zero all the way down the off ramp, shut it off at the light, restarted (still zero) and coasted around a corner into a parking lot.
I'm going to cut the oil filter apart today and check for glitter. Maybe an Accusump would help? I'm going to be braking harder than that at the end of the strip, but at least it will be at idle.
What I don't understand is why it didn't come back until I shut the engine off. This is the same break in procedure I used on the last engine and I don't think I had this issue, but maybe I just wasn't looking. At some point (I can't remember exactly when) I made a "warning light" on my holley pro dash that flashes "LOW OIL PRESSURE" in bright red covering 3/4 of the screen any time the oil is below 10psi. I was watching the RPM as I accelerated to 7K, let off the throttle and looked back at the dash and it was flashing, double checked the other gauge and it was also at zero. It stayed at zero all the way down the off ramp, shut it off at the light, restarted (still zero) and coasted around a corner into a parking lot.
I'm going to cut the oil filter apart today and check for glitter. Maybe an Accusump would help? I'm going to be braking harder than that at the end of the strip, but at least it will be at idle.
The oil pickup tube did have to get modified when I installed the windage tray, pictures here:
I carefully measured and got the proper clearance between the pan and pump pickup and included the thickness of the gasket in that calculation. I am also aware of how important the o-ring is in the pickup tube, so I'm fairly confident that it's fine.
The pump definitely has a regulator in it, I'm running the Melling oil pump with the Copa Camaro oil pressure spring in it.
I carefully measured and got the proper clearance between the pan and pump pickup and included the thickness of the gasket in that calculation. I am also aware of how important the o-ring is in the pickup tube, so I'm fairly confident that it's fine.
The pump definitely has a regulator in it, I'm running the Melling oil pump with the Copa Camaro oil pressure spring in it.
