LOL, I ordered that yesterday from Amazon, it was supposed to be here today but got delayed
CK5
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This one is even better in some ways I thought.GM 4l80e Transmissions: How to Rebuild & Modify (Paperback) Book https://share.google/RURqR4XL0WhoYytGP
@folkenheath
Has been in them as well.
IIRC a 12 point thin wall socket to get the center support bolt
Has been in them as well.
IIRC a 12 point thin wall socket to get the center support bolt
This guy makes excellent transmission videos. Looks like you gotta buy the 4l80 series but I've watched the 4r100 series and it's really good and detailed.
My cleaner/tester wasn't working properly so I took my injectors to AUS injection to get them cleaned and tested. Arizona driveshaft built my new shaft in record time. It's thicc.
Always liked az driveshaft they are not the cheapest but the knowledge is great.
When I told them the weight and HP of the truck and that I was adding a trans brake, they said that they couldn't warranty it and I'd be using it "at my own risk"... I'm not sure why they said that when they use the same material on the big diesel trucks, but that's what they said. They wanted to do chromoly, but there's no way with a shaft that long.
I dropped the yoke off and ordered the driveshaft yesterday at lunchtime.
I dropped the yoke off and ordered the driveshaft yesterday at lunchtime.
You got room for a larger diameter, i seem to recall you had little room in there
I'm going to have to clearance the crossmember, but I think it will fit in my driveshaft hoop. 5" was the biggest they said they could do. I wanted to upgrade the transmission slip yoke to a 1410 to match the rear, but I can't seem to find one for a roller bearing (has to be hardened chromoly).
Sounds about right. I had a weird last experience when they said a 86c10 reg cab short bed needed a 2 piece driveshaft, they stopped when I said why did it come from the factory with a 1 piece only?
I wish I could do a 2 piece, but there's no way that would hold up to the amount of power I'm putting down in that heavy truck.
All of my stuff from Amazon showed up last night, so this morning I was able to make an adapter for the transmission mount to bolt it to my engine stand. I'll start tearing it down later today.
Depending on your shaft speed at the end of the track, it could be necessary. 
I'm sure your shop did the critical speed calc.
They'd have had to ask you your engine RPM and all that.
If they didn't, you need that checked.
In my burb, the 2 piece is my only option.
So eventually I'll have to build a cross member and get it done.
They can't make one in my length that will take 6500 rpm at 1:1 (3rd).
I'm sure yours isn't as long though, so maybe eeks into acceptable..
Assuming your making it to 6000+ in 3rd anyway..
Never pondered that
Maybe it would be fine lol
I'm sure your shop did the critical speed calc.
They'd have had to ask you your engine RPM and all that.
If they didn't, you need that checked.
In my burb, the 2 piece is my only option.
So eventually I'll have to build a cross member and get it done.
They can't make one in my length that will take 6500 rpm at 1:1 (3rd).
I'm sure yours isn't as long though, so maybe eeks into acceptable..
Assuming your making it to 6000+ in 3rd anyway..
Never pondered that
Maybe it would be fine lol
I would have to hit 135mph to get to 6000rpm (28" tires, 3.73:1 gears). I've only hit 120 in the 1/4 so far, but I'm guessing I'll be past 130 the next time I hit the track. When I looked at critical driveshaft speed, the bigger shaft gave me about 30% more RPM, so if I was good to 119 before I should be good to 150 with the new shaft.Depending on your shaft speed at the end of the track, it could be necessary.
I'm sure your shop did the critical speed calc.
They'd have had to ask you your engine RPM and all that.
If they didn't, you need that checked.
In my burb, the 2 piece is my only option.
So eventually I'll have to build a cross member and get it done.
They can't make one in my length that will take 6500 rpm at 1:1 (3rd).
I'm sure yours isn't as long though, so maybe eeks into acceptable..
Assuming your making it to 6000+ in 3rd anyway..
Never pondered that
Maybe it would be fine lol
Speed is the critical point not rpm.
Good thing I don't have to worry about those things.
All my vehicles are made for slow speed and strength
Good thing I don't have to worry about those things.
All my vehicles are made for slow speed and strength
It's the RPM of the driveshaft that is critical, which in 3rd with the lockup, is the same as the RPM of the engine.
Be more specific, the critical speed of a shaft is RPM, but not engine RPM, driveshaft RPM, with which the vehicle speed can be calculated based on gear ratio and tire size, which is a better number to use in a vehicle, because that speed is true no matter what gear you are in. OD will hit the critical driveshaft speed at a lower engine RPM.
That's not a good thing.
Beat you to it @folkenheath 
