I run the lines and Y in the front, and then put the regulator on the firewall out the back of the fuel rails, it fits easier.
CK5
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That's how it used to be before the blower, but my return lines weren't equal length because the regulator was mounted on the passenger side.
I'm at the track and through tech.
We're right next to the tech booth. All the spots by the track were "spoken for"..
I'm at the track and through tech.
We're right next to the tech booth. All the spots by the track were "spoken for"..
Equal length lines won't change it, don't worry about that.
They didn't have the same bends either. One side had 180 fitting into the regulator, the other was straight.
I don't think that's a problem either, a good hose end is not enough restriction to matter at ~60 psi.
Are you measuring fuel pressure after the rail? If you still got proper pressure after the rail you should be good if it's split before the rail.
Are you measuring fuel pressure after the rail? If you still got proper pressure after the rail you should be good if it's split before the rail.
I'm measuring where the supply line comes into the back of the right fuel rail. I'm only running 45psi base pressure
I would measure after the rail, theoretically it should be about the same but then you know with certainty that the pressure is correct on the outlet, not the inlet.
At 45 psi is fine too I just meant EFI pressures aren't as sensitive to elbows and such as the suction side or even the 6 psi pressure side of a carbureted fuel pump.
At 45 psi is fine too I just meant EFI pressures aren't as sensitive to elbows and such as the suction side or even the 6 psi pressure side of a carbureted fuel pump.
Would it need to be more than 45 PSI though ?
43 and 58 psi are both pretty standard injector flow rating pressures. You can customize the pressure based on how much fuel you actually need.
It's a VE based table so it adjust pulse width based on fuel pressure. My injectors say to set the base pressure at 44.1psi (4 bar) some want 58.8psi (5bar). I have a rising rate regulator so it maintains that base pressure drop across the fuel injector. Boost = pressures over 45, vacuum = pressure under 45.
I’ll be at the track tomorrow around 8:30am
Still no traction to be found. I keep spinning the driver's side wheel as soon as the front fully extends. I dropped the leave to 2500 and it still blew the tire off.
At this point I think it's a combo of bad track prep and a glitter bomb in my rear Detroit tru track
At this point I think it's a combo of bad track prep and a glitter bomb in my rear Detroit tru track
I've already thought of a fix for this and it comes from the land down under.
Yes I think once you go transbrake you need a spool, not an ARB. The transbrake doesn't preload the drivetrain like footbraking, it's violent in a fun way.
What shocks do you have? Do you have an antiroll bar on the rear axle? Any preload in the 4 link?
Your MPH shows you about how much HP you are making, your ET and 60 ft shows you how well you are getting it to the ground.
For drag racing axles and such I like Strange Engineering, I think they have the best quality for the price. There are more expensive options and there are less quality options but I think they are the best option for many. I have a Strange spool in my Regal.
What shocks do you have? Do you have an antiroll bar on the rear axle? Any preload in the 4 link?
Your MPH shows you about how much HP you are making, your ET and 60 ft shows you how well you are getting it to the ground.
For drag racing axles and such I like Strange Engineering, I think they have the best quality for the price. There are more expensive options and there are less quality options but I think they are the best option for many. I have a Strange spool in my Regal.
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Putting a spool in it would make it horrible on the road, that's not an option. I know I've put more load on a 14 bolt ARB than I did on the Truetrac that I have in this one with no issues. I already have onboard air and I can just have the ECU engage it when I push the race mode button.
The rear end started having issues in Michigan. It did the same thing where it spun the right wheel only on a launch at Ubly.
Shocks - QA1 double adjustable
Anti Roll Bar - 1-3/4" chromoly from Rhodes Race Cars.
The only preload is the crane in the rear left corner
I will put a drag axle under the next rig I build, this one is keeping 8 lug.
The rear end started having issues in Michigan. It did the same thing where it spun the right wheel only on a launch at Ubly.
Shocks - QA1 double adjustable
Anti Roll Bar - 1-3/4" chromoly from Rhodes Race Cars.
The only preload is the crane in the rear left corner
I will put a drag axle under the next rig I build, this one is keeping 8 lug.
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When you watch the launch in slow motion, the right rear breaks loose right when the entire weight of the car is on the rear wheels with the majority of that being on the right rear. It's obvious something is wrong in the diff. I've noticed a few times when making a tight turn that it will drag a tire a bit, which shouldn't happen with the trutrack.
Today I'm going leave it at 2500RPM launch but pull 10° of timing out at the launch and bring it back in over 1.5 seconds. If that doesn't go down I'll just swing right back around and foot brake it with a soft leave just to see if I can get a 10 second time slip.
Today I'm going leave it at 2500RPM launch but pull 10° of timing out at the launch and bring it back in over 1.5 seconds. If that doesn't go down I'll just swing right back around and foot brake it with a soft leave just to see if I can get a 10 second time slip.
A spool will not be friendly on the street and I believe his goal was a street driven truck he can take to the drag strip.Chit, you don't have to go to Australia to buy a spool...
Bet you can find one closer.
Bolting a tractor wheel weight to that flatbed would help too lol.
ARB will make that happen
A quick google search also says that this isn't going to work with an ARB. I'm not sure what I'm going to do.
