GRINCH
1/2 ton status
How much power do you think the 4L80e will hold up too? I have a 400 for my project and was looking for a OD that will handle my caddy motor. Est about 500-600 Lbs of Torque and HP around 400+.
CK5
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Time for a new project, been a loooong time
- Thread starter bigblock72
- Start date
How much power do you think the 4L80e will hold up too? I have a 400 for my project and was looking for a OD that will handle my caddy motor. Est about 500-600 Lbs of Torque and HP around 400+.
I don't know what the absolute limits of a stock 4l80 are. I do know the supercharged 454 in my dually makes close to 600 ft lbs and the trans is still hanging in there even with regular 10k loads and having 180,000 on the clock.
I feel comfortable saying that a 4l80 in good condition will easily handle your caddy motor.
The 700r4 I got from Monster Transmission is supposed to be rated at 630HP. They didn't give a torque rating though. I should prolly call them before I spec out the build on the 454.
The problem with 700s isn't so much the limits of the clutch packs, it's more to do with the input and output shafts. I generally like to stick with 500 ft lbs as the max with stock input and output shafts. Not to say that they won't hold up with more, it all depends.
I've seen stock station wagons break input shafts/drums and I've also seen 4,000 lb cars run 11s with stock stuff. Some of it is luck. The rest is how the vehicle is used, weight, engine torque etc.
On your rig I'd say if you keep the stock cylinder heads, use a streetable cam and compression you'll probably be safe. You don't seem to beat the rig too hard so it should be ok.
The 4L80E is a direct descendant of the TH400.
TH400s have been used for ages in drag cars, and all sort of high-HP applications. The correct way to build them for ludicrous power is well-understood....
If there is a weakness, I can think of only 2:
1. HP loss through the transmission is pretty high (54HP), and a bit worse than a 700R4 (42HP)
2. 4L80E is expensive, especially with a standalone controller... probably around $3000-$3500 by the time you've got it bolted in with a good TC.
TH400s have been used for ages in drag cars, and all sort of high-HP applications. The correct way to build them for ludicrous power is well-understood....
If there is a weakness, I can think of only 2:
1. HP loss through the transmission is pretty high (54HP), and a bit worse than a 700R4 (42HP)
2. 4L80E is expensive, especially with a standalone controller... probably around $3000-$3500 by the time you've got it bolted in with a good TC.
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GRINCH
1/2 ton status
The 4L80E is a direct descendant of the TH400.
TH400s have been used for ages in drag cars, and all sort of high-HP applications. The correct way to build them for ludicrous power is well-understood....
If there is a weakness, I can think of only 2:
1. HP loss through the transmission is pretty high (35HP), but still not as bad as a 700R4 (54HP)
2. 4L80E is expensive, especially with a standalone controller... probably around $3000-$3500 by the time you've got it bolted in with a good TC.
Make that 3... No OD...
Been a long time since we saw an update here. What have you been up to?
Mostly life, really.
It has been super crazy in the shop and plenty going on at home as well. I was hoping to have this all together for Blazer Bash but it didn't happen.
The biggest problem has been how this whole project snowballed almost uncontrollably. It started out as a motor and adding on to the cage in the engine compartment and turned into replacing everything.
Enough of that so here are some progress pics.
The front end is out of a 06ish Super duty. It took a whole day for Dad and I to cut and grind all of the brackets off and prep it to install. I hope to never have to do that again!!!!
The track bar and drag link were set up at full compression since the clearance on the oil pan is so tight. Looks like I'll have a little over 5 inches of compression travel and still have a half inch of clearance between the oil pan and track bar. That leaves about 11 inches of extension travel in the coilovers.
Looks like with the high pinion the driveshaft will be ok with that much travel.
The track bar and drag link were set up at full compression since the clearance on the oil pan is so tight. Looks like I'll have a little over 5 inches of compression travel and still have a half inch of clearance between the oil pan and track bar. That leaves about 11 inches of extension travel in the coilovers.
Looks like with the high pinion the driveshaft will be ok with that much travel.
As a side note I side tracked myself (ADD?) with my pickup. I thought since it hadn't been started or moved in 4 or 5 years 
it was probably time to break it out and put it back together. I forgot how much fun it is to drive. The big block still makes short work of the 35s.
I might start another thread on it when the Blazer is up and running.
it was probably time to break it out and put it back together. I forgot how much fun it is to drive. The big block still makes short work of the 35s.I might start another thread on it when the Blazer is up and running.
Getting back to the task at hand.
The motor is pretty much ready to fire up, just need to bolt up the throttle body to the blower, change a couple of things in the PCM software (injector sizing and figure out the 2 bar MAP software patch). All of the wiring is basicly done and has been function tested, the fuel system is all connected and pressure tested etc, etc.
The 4l80e is in and wired/plumbed, the t-case changed to driver's drop 241 to work with the front end. I had to change the 14 sf housing to work with the slightly narrower 8 lug axle shafts, also added rear disc brakes with dual piston calipers and 13 inch rotors to better match the rather large Super Duty brakes on the front end.
The motor is pretty much ready to fire up, just need to bolt up the throttle body to the blower, change a couple of things in the PCM software (injector sizing and figure out the 2 bar MAP software patch). All of the wiring is basicly done and has been function tested, the fuel system is all connected and pressure tested etc, etc.
The 4l80e is in and wired/plumbed, the t-case changed to driver's drop 241 to work with the front end. I had to change the 14 sf housing to work with the slightly narrower 8 lug axle shafts, also added rear disc brakes with dual piston calipers and 13 inch rotors to better match the rather large Super Duty brakes on the front end.
So what's left? I have a list of 20 or 30 items to finish up before I tear it all back apart to weld, clean up, paint/powder. Some items include: hydraulic bump stops, finish the radius arm mounts/transmission crossmember, exhaust, gears and locker for the 60, fire engine, and build a new heater box.
A lot (not all) of the gooey parts and crustiness will get cleaned up at that point. I'm going for a presentable and reliable rig that will get used hard, I already have a pretty garage ornament and don't need another.
The ultimate goal is to have it up and running for Thanksgiving. My wife insists that the Thanksgiving Moab trip will happen with or without me and the Blazer.
I think I have a lot work to do in the next 2 months.
Hopefully things will mellow out around the shop so I can get it all done and maybe do some real time updates.
A lot (not all) of the gooey parts and crustiness will get cleaned up at that point. I'm going for a presentable and reliable rig that will get used hard, I already have a pretty garage ornament and don't need another.
The ultimate goal is to have it up and running for Thanksgiving. My wife insists that the Thanksgiving Moab trip will happen with or without me and the Blazer.
I think I have a lot work to do in the next 2 months.Hopefully things will mellow out around the shop so I can get it all done and maybe do some real time updates.
Nice goin' Chad! 
Couple of quick questions.....
What is your 4L80E setup going to be...MVB, or standalone controller? CompuShift?
As I've been going through my own head-scratching about cagework and suspension, I'm really paying attention to how other people tie-in the cage to the frame and still deal with the flexible body mounts. Did you decide to give up on bodymounts and just go solid in those spots? I see that you're tied in to the frame (across the body mounts) at the firewall but I don't see any sort of flexible mount there to de-couple the body from the frame?
I'm really having a hard time coming up with a solution for the rear coilovers in mine. I want to build the upper mounts to the cage like I see everyone else do, but the cage and body are soft-mounted to the frame with the rubber body mounts. So as the shock compresses, it's going to want to flex the body mounts every time also....not good.
Couple of quick questions.....
What is your 4L80E setup going to be...MVB, or standalone controller? CompuShift?
As I've been going through my own head-scratching about cagework and suspension, I'm really paying attention to how other people tie-in the cage to the frame and still deal with the flexible body mounts. Did you decide to give up on bodymounts and just go solid in those spots? I see that you're tied in to the frame (across the body mounts) at the firewall but I don't see any sort of flexible mount there to de-couple the body from the frame?
I'm really having a hard time coming up with a solution for the rear coilovers in mine. I want to build the upper mounts to the cage like I see everyone else do, but the cage and body are soft-mounted to the frame with the rubber body mounts. So as the shock compresses, it's going to want to flex the body mounts every time also....not good.
LUBA
1/2 ton status
Awesome cage. I am going to bend one for my blazer soon. There are so many nice designs on this site. Your dash is pretty cool. What size tube did you run?
Nice goin' Chad!
Couple of quick questions.....
What is your 4L80E setup going to be...MVB, or standalone controller? CompuShift?
As I've been going through my own head-scratching about cagework and suspension, I'm really paying attention to how other people tie-in the cage to the frame and still deal with the flexible body mounts. Did you decide to give up on bodymounts and just go solid in those spots? I see that you're tied in to the frame (across the body mounts) at the firewall but I don't see any sort of flexible mount there to de-couple the body from the frame?
I'm really having a hard time coming up with a solution for the rear coilovers in mine. I want to build the upper mounts to the cage like I see everyone else do, but the cage and body are soft-mounted to the frame with the rubber body mounts. So as the shock compresses, it's going to want to flex the body mounts every time also....not good.
The 4l80e will be controlled by the GM computer that runs the 6.0l.
Nice and simple.As for the cage I have mine tied solidly to frame while the body floats on the stock style urethane mounts. Having the cage soft mounted hampers the cages ability to strengthen the frame so you definitely need to mount it solidly. Having the body soft mounted seems to work fine even with the cage being mounted solidly. My previous cage was set up the same way, so I have almost four years of having it mounted this way with no stress related issues to speak of, except for my broken front fenders from the additional stress on the unsupported front section of frame.
When I originally mounted the cage to the frame I noticed a difference in the way the blazer handled and also the number of creeks and pops the body made went down a lot. The one thing that I didn't notice was an increase in noise and only a barely detectable amount of driveline vibration that I hadn't felt previously. As far as my results go it was a win-win situation.
I'm hoping the additional support from the front half of the cage will reduce body/frame flex even more and make it feel even more solid on rough roads and maybe even fix the broken fender issues.
LUBA
1/2 ton status
As for the cage I have mine tied solidly to frame while the body floats on the stock style urethane mounts. Having the cage soft mounted hampers the cages ability to strengthen the frame so you definitely need to mount it solidly. Having the body soft mounted seems to work fine even with the cage being mounted solidly. My previous cage was set up the same way, so I have almost four years of having it mounted this way with no stress related issues to speak of, except for my broken front fenders from the additional stress on the unsupported front section of frame.
When I originally mounted the cage to the frame I noticed a difference in the way the blazer handled and also the number of creeks and pops the body made went down a lot. The one thing that I didn't notice was an increase in noise and only a barely detectable amount of driveline vibration that I hadn't felt previously. As far as my results go it was a win-win situation.
I'm hoping the additional support from the front half of the cage will reduce body/frame flex even more and make it feel even more solid on rough roads and maybe even fix the broken fender issues.
So other than the floor plates, your cage isn't tied into the body at all? I thought I saw some mounts on the front of your cage that possibly bolts or ties into the windshield frame?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Way cool to see. Any chance of some overall pictures of the engine bay and shock mounts?
That's what I'm talkin about!
79rustyk10
3/4 ton status
thats a damn sexy lookin truck! Im a sucker for a two tone 71 or 72 though.
