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TnA Engine Crossmember Kit

Upstate said:
So my crossmember is in route from Darren. I will post up pictures of it getting installed once I get. Also I will finally after 5 years start a build thread on the K5. The only original or factory part left is the rear wiring harness for the lights so stay tuned for that if a 6.0 / NV4500/ NP205/ Dana 60 / 14 bolt build interests you.

Finally the real reason I post this up is one of the things that we as customers suffer from these days is honest to god customer service. Darren has gone above and beyond what I would expect from anyone, I can't express the thanks enough, thanks man.
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You are welcome, my friend! I may not get to everyone's questions right away, and I'm the first to admit that once in a great while I let something slip through the cracks, but I try to be honest and up-front about everything and I really try to take care of each customer as best as I can! Comments like these really make it worth it for me, I'm in this business to help people build their rigs, and try to cover my bills while doing so - it's certainly not anything that will make one rich by any means!

That being said, I unfortunately need to raise the price of these engine crossmembers just a little in order to cover the cost of the materials, electricity to run the plasma table, lights, welders, etc...

SO, the new pricing on these Engine Crossmembers will be set at $275 plus shipping (in bare steel)

Thank you all for understanding.

-Darren


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I'm going to order one of these this spring once its warm enough to hang out in the shop.
 
BTW, do you have any pics of the lower panhard mount on the axle housing side? Just curious what you came up with.
 
thatK30guy said:
BTW, do you have any pics of the lower panhard mount on the axle housing side? Just curious what you came up with.
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Nothing new yet, still just the weld-on mounts. A u-bolt plate version shouldn't be too hard to make up though in a short amount of time. :)
 
Will your engine cross member W/ Track Bar System, work with my ORD High/Cross Over Steer system?
1988 K-5 Blazer with 5" lift, dana 60

Thank you,
Ed Marshall
 
Getting ready to do an LS swap in my '79 K5. I've had an ORD X-member that was used with a Gen 1 SBC before and liked it but I've read a lot of posts saying that it did or didn't work with an LS or that you have to get the BBC version or that you have to "massage" a few things etc. and I'm not trying to do that.

Definitely interested in your newer style HD version X-member.

Some Questions:

Can the X-member be ordered without the trac bar provision with both sides of the X-member where it bolts up to the frame rails being symetrical (there's more meat over where the trac bar provision is)?

I need some beef engine mounts for an LS engine that locates the back of the block where the trans bell housing bolts up in the factory position, don't feel like moving my trans/t-case around. Can this be done?

Are the poly bushings that are used in the engine mounts the same bushings used in the rear springs on our trucks? It would be nice to have ALL the same bushings for everything... all of the leaf springs, DIY4X shackle hangers, engine mounts etc.
 
I have a LS 6.0 with his cross member and it works great. Allowed me to dump the factory cross member.
 
handloader90 said:
Getting ready to do an LS swap in my '79 K5. I've had an ORD X-member that was used with a Gen 1 SBC before and liked it but I've read a lot of posts saying that it did or didn't work with an LS or that you have to get the BBC version or that you have to "massage" a few things etc. and I'm not trying to do that.

Definitely interested in your newer style HD version X-member.

Some Questions:

Can the X-member be ordered without the trac bar provision with both sides of the X-member where it bolts up to the frame rails being symetrical (there's more meat over where the trac bar provision is)?

I need some beef engine mounts for an LS engine that locates the back of the block where the trans bell housing bolts up in the factory position, don't feel like moving my trans/t-case around. Can this be done?

Are the poly bushings that are used in the engine mounts the same bushings used in the rear springs on our trucks? It would be nice to have ALL the same bushings for everything... all of the leaf springs, DIY4X shackle hangers, engine mounts etc.
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I can certainly make you a crossmember with both sides being symmetrical, and leave off the track bar mount if you'd like.

My LS Swap mounts were designed to keep the rear of the block in the same position as the old small blocks - so your trans should bolt right up (with the proper flywheel spacer and such of course). A couple things about using my mounts and crossmember though - the frame rails will have to be notched slightly if you are using factory exhaust manifolds. Also, the low-mount AC compressor will not work in there at all.

Yes, the poly bushings I use are the same ones as the rear leafs - probably the most common ones out there!

With the engine crossmember, it works best with 4" or more of lift, for clearance purposes.


-Darren
 
TnA said:
I can certainly make you a crossmember with both sides being symmetrical, and leave off the track bar mount if you'd like.

My LS Swap mounts were designed to keep the rear of the block in the same position as the old small blocks - so your trans should bolt right up (with the proper flywheel spacer and such of course). A couple things about using my mounts and crossmember though - the frame rails will have to be notched slightly if you are using factory exhaust manifolds. Also, the low-mount AC compressor will not work in there at all.

Yes, the poly bushings I use are the same ones as the rear leafs - probably the most common ones out there!

With the engine crossmember, it works best with 4" or more of lift, for clearance purposes.


-Darren
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F**king awesome!

I'm gonna be sitting around 5" in the lift department.

Planning on using the Schoenfeld 1302LS1 long tubes in place of manifolds and I'm not gonna be running A/C.

I'm keeping my old cast iron SM465 4 speed and I have all the stuff to properly bolt it up to an LS, should be fine still huh?

Could you PM contact info? I'd like to talk everything over with you, get a quote and place the order in September.
 
j20m715 said:
Ive got his LS mounts (haven't installed them yet) they are NICE!

Let me know how those headers work out for you.
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It's gonna be a decent while before I end up mounting everything. I'm picking up my 5.3 the second half of this month. All the TNA goodies in September, Headers and hopefully harness rework and PCM flash in October.

I'm currently in the process of disc brake swapping my 14 bolt and I have to get crossover for the Dana 60... wheels/tires and brake plumbing, probably a 3/4 ton MC and brake booster too.

Somewhere in all of the madness I have to get all the fuel stuff situated and plumbed too.

Trying to section the funds off so I can get everything done in a timely manner and not be broke... these trucks are bank account destroyers lol.
 
handloader90 said:
F**king awesome!

I'm gonna be sitting around 5" in the lift department.

Planning on using the Schoenfeld 1302LS1 long tubes in place of manifolds and I'm not gonna be running A/C.

I'm keeping my old cast iron SM465 4 speed and I have all the stuff to properly bolt it up to an LS, should be fine still huh?

Could you PM contact info? I'd like to talk everything over with you, get a quote and place the order in September.
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Check out my build, running his x member, schoenfield headers, nv 4500 and 205. If I can help, ask.
Joe
 
handloader90 said:
F**king awesome!

I'm gonna be sitting around 5" in the lift department.

Planning on using the Schoenfeld 1302LS1 long tubes in place of manifolds and I'm not gonna be running A/C.

I'm keeping my old cast iron SM465 4 speed and I have all the stuff to properly bolt it up to an LS, should be fine still huh?

Could you PM contact info? I'd like to talk everything over with you, get a quote and place the order in September.
Click to expand...

PM sent
 
Hi Darren, I am just curious about the transmission cross-members that were pictured earlier... What year model and transmission setup were those based on. Just trying to figure out if I wanted one what all I would need to change on my setep. Thanks.
 
rpcraft said:
Hi Darren, I am just curious about the transmission cross-members that were pictured earlier... What year model and transmission setup were those based on. Just trying to figure out if I wanted one what all I would need to change on my setep. Thanks.
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Well, the original transmission crossmember was designed off a tuck with a 4L60 and an NP208, iirc. But it was designed to have two symmetrical holes on either side that specifically don't line up with the factory frame holes - so that it could be positioned where needed and then holes drilled for it. I recently designed one for a 4L60 and NP241 combo, which is basically the same setup, except for the fact that I designed this one around a t-case clocking ring for a high clearance setup. This new one does use the factory frame holes. I'm not sure what setup you are wanting to run, but if you would like to talk to me about making you something in a little more detail, it would probably be best to email me at [email protected] since I don't always get the notifications from here. If you want to run a clocking ring, PLEASE contact me about it first - there are some bad designs out there that basically create an obvious leak path for tranny fluid! Not good, lol!
 
Right now I am doing an LS swap, I have the dirty dingo mounts but I am kind not liking the notched front cross member. I'd rather follow it up with your front cross member because it looks beefier and well made, plus all that nice oil pan clearance, and then I am putting a 4l60E mated to the OE np208, but your trans cross member just looks clean as heck as well. I already have the motor in now though and am probably gonna have the rest of the driveline in the over the next couple weekends so I'll just kind of revisit with you at some point because I'm probably going to be swapping to a 4l80e if the 4l60 doesn't hold up too well.
 
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