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TnA's 86 Jimmy Shop Build / Product Development Thread - (Trailing Arms?!?!)

Wow - It's nice to hear someone with the same (or similar at least) opinion as mine on flex. I have been saying for years now that you can have too much flex, or articulation. Years ago I set out to build a full-size that could keep up with the Jeeps on the rock trails out here. I did it, to a point. I have a 1994 K1500 with a big block on links and coilovers with about 3 feet of wheel travel at each corner. It's really soft and flexes unbelievably. BUT, the only way I can even come close to maxing the suspension articulation is on a fabricated ramp or with a forklift, lol. I've had the thing flexed out crazy on the trails, and then when you go and inspect it, there is always still more travel left. It's just too much. It always gets to the point of rolling over before the suspension is maxed out. ....And the worst part is when it's in a really awkward position, and its so damn soft that if you give it any throttle it just twists the suspension more and wants to roll. I've added soft anti-sway bars to it to help keep it under control, which is basically taming down everything I built into the truck. It's completely pointless.
That being said, there is something else that I've been saying lately, and that is that there is differing "quality" of articulation too. Two vehicles that have the same flex on a ramp, same amount of wheel travel, etc... and one "walks" over rocks and they other twists and jumps over rocks. So far, the best system I've come up with is a reverse-triangulated 4-link in combination with either decently soft coil springs or coilovers. That setup seems to make the tires travel in the best arc, fit up into the wheelwells ideally, and overall just ride the best in terms of passenger comfort. It's a pain in the butt to build as opposed to some other designs, but it definitely works awesome on the trail.
SO.... I'm thinking that a reverse triangulated 4-link with soft leaf springs with shackles or sliders at either end and flex joints might be a sweet setup in terms of performance, and also a compact setup to fit under the full body of an SUV like a K5 or a Suburban. I'm sure I'll experiment with something like that in the future ;)
Oh, and I completely agree with lockers NOT being overrated! They kick ass, and are absolutely required for most of the harder trails out here.
One of the guys from my old wheeling group had a little Toyota pickup, all beat up but with lockers front and rear. Near zero flex at all. We named the truck "Tripod" because he was always on three wheels with one in the air somewhere. It made for some decent pics at first, but nowadays I'd rather snap a shot of someone all flexed out with all tires on the ground than someone just hanging a tire. But you are right, most of the camera-holders like the photos of the stiff rigs more.

-Darren

Yah everything times 2

Same rear suspension as what I like although I have done several different types and I don't think I am sold on one particular setup.

Quality of articulation and equality is something I have been preaching for years. Get just a bit more flex out of the rear than the front. Keep it controlled 18" coilovers are for showoffs and rookies LOL

I have always wanted to do a leaf sprung link suspension. I may just in Horton but who knows. Its gonna stay its basic leaf sprung self for a while now.

Yah my buddies ram charger had oh I don't know about an inch or so of flex. I kid you not, but man was it stable, and lockers front and rear. He had 40s on 4" of lift and wheels with 2" of backspacing long, low and wide, it was a good thing he didn't mind body damage or lifting a tire. We had to beat stuff around pretty good after a trail ride so he could open the doors sometimes.

Good stuff man good stuff
 
Well, I didn't get to the shop today until after noontime, then boxed up some stuff and brought a bunch over to FedEx. Glad to get some shipments out the door again!! I think I am mostly all caught up on customer stuff for the moment. That brought me to three o-clock, and then I finished up a few welds on the new engine crossmember, and got it into the booth for some epoxy primer, color, and clear.
I was feeling like I was running late, so in my haste, I filled my gun with basecoat before I realized I hadn't put the needle into it yet. Yay. So almost half a gun-load of nice basecoat peed out all over my table and onto the floor before I could pick up the gun and dump the rest back into the mixing cup. Stupid mistake!! Cost me about a half-hour of cleanup!! Man, did I feel like an idiot, lol! And that is what I get for trying to rush things - you'd think I'd know better by now, but nope, apparently not!

Anyways, after some more time in the booth, this is how I'm ending my day:


IMG_20130826_175427_398.jpg





IMG_20130826_175517_452.jpg




Can I just say that I think it's pretty damn cool to be able to go from drawings in the computer, to plate steel, to cut pieces, to welded pieces, and all the way to finished, really nice looking base-clearcoated pieces, all at the same shop!!! It's pretty bad-ass if I do say so myself!


-Darren
 
...and one last thing before I head home for today...

IMG_20130826_184039_469.jpg



IMG_20130826_184008_883.jpg



So here is the basic rear upper shock crossmember bolted in place (yes, I actually designed something that you have to drill the holes to mount! Lol). I think I am going to do standard shock tabs for the upper, at a slight angle so the shock will come down and outwards towards the wheel. This will allow you to mount the crossmember in either direction (shock tabs facing forward or rearward) to tailor your shock angle to your liking. That would put them either at almost the same angle as stock, or angled forward a fair bit more than stock. That would allow you to fit a slightly longer shock in there to gain a little more travel, but still not have too much of an angle so that they still function properly. I'll get the lower mount posted up sometime tomorrow hopefully.


Also - I started working on the rear bumper design a little today. More to come tomorrow! ;)

-Darren
 
Well I could have used something like that on my rear shocks... Then I wouldn't have had to make the freddy kreuger brackets :haha:
 
:cough: transfer case crossmember :cough:

I sorta made a basic one of these already. I just didn't make any skids for it yet. What are you thinking about that you would want? I might be able to come up with something fairly quickly.
I looked at doing a t-case clocking bracket too, but in my K5 at least, there isn't any room to clock the case. It is surprisingly close to the body already, I can barely get a finger between it and the floor pan. If you had a three inch body lift then maybe you could clock it but I don't think that anyone here wants one of those - 1" max maybe. I think I ended up building the crossmember so that it pushes the trans/t-case a tiny bit higher than stock after looking at it more closely, so maybe that's why I'm so close to the body.
Talk to me, and let me know what you want!!!! Give me specifics ;)


Well I could have used something like that on my rear shocks... Then I wouldn't have had to make the freddy kreuger brackets :haha:

Freddy Kreuger brackets????? Sounds pretty cool to me! My girlfriend doesn't watch scary movies, so it's been a while since I've watched anything like that. Great, thanks for giving me the craving for a scary movie now!! I might have to go put one on the TV and get in trouble!
BTW: If anyone wants just what is shown here so far, I'm sure I could make it pretty cheaply. Then you could weld on whatever tabs you want!

-Darren
 
Read from post 1899 to 1906.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289554&page=190

And heres installed.


Like 4 hours of measuring and cutting with a grinder and tacking and bs lol.

If only I had your setup. I coulda made them in like 30 min lol.

One installed pic.


Lol, yeah I think I had the drawings done, the 1/4" plate cut and the tube cut, ready to be welded together in about 30 minutes. Just couldn't finish it that day due to me being a tard and running out of welding wire. I think it took me longer to drill the damn holes in the frame than it took me to build what I've got there so far. Well maybe not, but it sure seems like it. I hate drilling frames from underneath. I'm not a fan of hot metal flakes falling directly on me. Of course I end up doing it all the time. My eye doctor loves me so much (from taking out various pieces of metal very frequently) that I was actually invited to her wedding a while ago. I'm not so sure that's a good thing. But it was a cool wedding and she's super nice so that's a plus.
Oh, and I don't think I could work with you - the beer cans in every picture just wouldn't work. Now if they were all bottles of Captain instead, we might be able to get along, lol :) (allergy to hops, I get sick off half a beer!!)

-Darren
 
im VERY versatile on the alcoholic beverages I can consume. Beer is just cheap lol
 
Here's the new crossmember in place, bolted in and tightened up very nicely! I'm very happy with the design on this one ;)


Complete with greasy fingerprints:

IMG_20130827_095012_827.jpg



-Darren
 
I sorta made a basic one of these already. I just didn't make any skids for it yet. What are you thinking about that you would want? I might be able to come up with something fairly quickly.
I looked at doing a t-case clocking bracket too, but in my K5 at least, there isn't any room to clock the case. It is surprisingly close to the body already, I can barely get a finger between it and the floor pan. If you had a three inch body lift then maybe you could clock it but I don't think that anyone here wants one of those - 1" max maybe. I think I ended up building the crossmember so that it pushes the trans/t-case a tiny bit higher than stock after looking at it more closely, so maybe that's why I'm so close to the body.
Talk to me, and let me know what you want!!!! Give me specifics ;)

-Darren


What I would really like to see is sort of a niche market product, a belly pan with t-case mounts for a doubler. Something like the ones offered for a Jeep -
http://www.rokmen.com/rokmen-high-clearance-belly-pan.html

I realize the problem is the frame differences from early to later K5's (before / after '83?) and then pick ups also.

I just want something like that for mine. :D I think most folks would be happy even if I hung the same depth as an OE crossmember, just a smoother belly with t-case mount(s). At the moment, there are no production crossmembers for people with doublers.

Lastly, if you could build & sell it for $59.95 that would be bitchin too. :thumb:
 
This thread makes me want to blow my k10 apart and put it back together all awesome like
 
Also - I started working on the rear bumper design a little today. More to come tomorrow! ;)

-Darren

You can't say this and not post anything by almost 4pm the next day!! Come on :D

Seriously though, it looks like your products are top notch, so I really want to see what you come up with here. :waytogo: Plus, being in the same state as you could make it nice for me to not have to pay shipping on something (just gas I guess)
 
This thread makes me want to blow my k10 apart and put it back together all awesome like

Lol, that's awesome!

You can't say this and not post anything by almost 4pm the next day!! Come on :D

Seriously though, it looks like your products are top notch, so I really want to see what you come up with here. :waytogo: Plus, being in the same state as you could make it nice for me to not have to pay shipping on something (just gas I guess)

Sorry man! There's nothing to show just yet, just some dimensions in the computer. I got stuck dealing with radiator and header issues today, and didn't get crap accomplished (well other than motor put in...). Just got back with a new radiator and decided to ditch the headers for now and just run factory exhaust manifolds. Prolly good too since I hate exhaust leaks, lol.

-Darren
 
Well I think I've had it for today. I got the engine in, a new radiator in, got the whole serpentine setup on, and got the exhaust manifolds on too. I even managed to sneak in cutting some shackles on the table. Seems like everything fought me today, to the point of using a 3 foot pry bar on both of the exhaust manifolds to get the front bolts in - it's amazing how much heat-cycling metal warps it, lol. But at least it's done, and now it's on to the wiring harness and rear bumper. Sorry I couldn't get anything up on the rear bumper today, the stuff fighting me plus the almost 100 degree temps in the shop just beat me down. Now I've got a looong drive home and crap to do at the house still. Hopefully tomorrow I will accomplish a bunch, because Thursday, Friday and Saturday I have to go out of town on a job.

Later!

-Darren


IMG_20130827_174749_105.jpg
 
Just got back with a new radiator and decided to ditch the headers for now and just run factory exhaust manifolds. Prolly good too since I hate exhaust leaks, lol.

-Darren

Headers were cool when I was in high school :whistle:

Now I realize they leak and get crusty unless you spend 1000$
 
Headers were cool when I was in high school :whistle:

Now I realize they leak and get crusty unless you spend 1000$

Yup they definitely have a place for hp. But after running a set and then having a vehicle with stock manifolds, man the clearance is soooo much nicer. It'd be worth losing the 10-20hp for ease of use
 
Everything I have put headers on ran better without. I also think the must only benefit complete engine builds that match the additional exhaust flow.
 
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