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Tow rig upgrade and trailer purchase ideas

I read the whole thread but, I'm still a little hazy. Okay, lemme see if I am getting this right:
Lil Dodge- DD, not technically yours so, functionally no point in talking about.
76 K5- yours, trail rig, intended green sticker rig, never gonna sell
73 K5- yours, current backup DD, intended tow rig?
Is that right?

My two cents:
As with a lot of others, no way in heck I'd tow a K5 with a K5.
Two reasons:
1. Insurance liability- no way in heck your insurance will cover an accident that you get in if you are towing so high above your vehicles gross combination weight rating, doesn't matter what engine, trans, axles, brakes, whatever, they just won't.
Exception:
IDK about your state BUT, in my state you can get the GVWR and GCWR raised if you show that the chassis has been strengthened sufficiently to handle the revised rates (bear in mind this means pretty much a brand new frame with all new spring mounts plus all the mods you have mentioned. Also, it is by the discretion of the DMV officer inspecting it so, if he feels it doesn't pass muster then, it doesn't).

2. From my experience, towing even with a properly prepared rig can be hairy in bad circumstances. I have a DMAX 2500HD (ext cab shortbed), 20,000lb licensed GCWR (which is the max ball hitch GCWR for it), 9999lb rated trailer that weighs 2000lb empty (four wheel electric brakes with a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller), and a 5500lb K5, this puts my K5 and trailer weight right at 7500lbs which is the limit for my truck when a weight distributing hitch is not run (I don't have one). So, everything is legal and within specs yet, I have still had white knuckle moments with that setup!


You say you wheel the 76 right now anyway, but feel the need to back off certain obstacles because it need so take you home. Well, my question is, even if you do all this work to be able to tow it with you 73 (spending a bunch of money in the process), how are you gonna be saving money for a real towing setup if you are busy breaking and fixing the 76. Why not wheel it easy for a while and save your $ to buy a good setup?

On a separate note, why not sell the 73 to help fund the tow rig?

IDK, to me it seems counter productive to pour a bunch of money into a marginal setup just to hit a few more obstacles a little harder than you do now. I've done plenty of short term thinking like that in the past and I always have ended up regretting it later. :dunno:

Heck, you still get to wheel even now with the current setup so what's the problem? ;)
 
Avery4jc said:
You're being so god dang stubborn with this crap it's annoying. If you want to tow with a freakin' blazer be my guest but when you have the biggest white knuckle ride of your life I guarantee you that you'll re-think things.

One of the first times I went wheelin' I didn't have my truck positioned so it put enough tongue weight on the trailer, that combined with a high COG (I was using a deck-over) made for one hairy situation when it got up to 55. It was about all I could do to get that train wreck stopped and I KNOW one of the reasons I was able to get it under control was because I was towing with my K3500, a crew cab long bed with some weight. It still tossed me around but I was able to take care of business and get it stopped, good luck doing that with your blazer at half the wheelbase and weight. :flipoff7:

So you wanna race competitively huh? Then start looking around at some teams you think have their act together and see what they're towing their junk to the races with. :whistle:
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So i need to be very careful and make sure that the weight is properly distributed, I'll make sure to do a test run before each trip so i can hopefully avoid that happening to me Good advice :waytogo:

As for what the racers are towing with, Thats a pipe dream right now. Check out erik millers tow rig on his FB page if you got time that thing is sweeeeeeeeeeet. Hell i wouldnt mind living in that thing full time if i had a nice sized shop.

rjfguitar said:
Clearly, I'm not interested enough to sort through what it is that you own and plan to do with them.

It's simple, sell one K5 (the one you were going to tow with) and keep the one you want to wheel, which is clearly what I meant.:rolleyes: And thank you for clarifying that you don't actually pay for anything yourself, that explains so much. :thumb:
Well i dont pay for living cost, Everything racing/wheeling related is on my 9.50 an hour budget. If i wasnt paying for anything myself i'd have the sweetest cummins tow rig and i would have been running the LCQ at the last KOH :saweet: . The 76 k5 is mine and isnt for sale for previous reasons listed, The 73 k5 is a father/son project between my dad and I and he wont sell that until he dies and then ill keep it for sentimental value, So both the ladies are here to stay. Not that it much matters the amount of cash they would pull in would be negligible since my old rigs arent worth a damn thing to anybody else. No bother to me though i love the crap out of em and i wouldnt sell em for a small fortune.

It's not just insurance and registration that a vehicle costs, maintenance is just as expensive in some cases. For example, have you priced out a set of tires lately?
:haha: I work at goodyear tires as a General Service Tech. Not only do i see the prices of tires all day i see the profit made off em and i get them at almost wholesale price. Im pretty hooked up when it comes to basic maintenence since i spend all day doing it on everyone elses car.

And lets not forget about depreciation, but that is auto economics 202, I'm afraid it's a little soon for that.:whistle:

But I'm going to end it here on my end, I don't mean to pick at you. You do whatever you'd like. Get yourself a trailer and go for it, let us know how your setup works, good or bad. And heck.... I'm over in the central valley, if you happen to be over here and have a problem, I'll help you out if you need it.:thumb:
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Thanks man, Thats very big of you. Hopefully i'll never have to make that call but if i do you can say i told you so :haha: .

blowedupmotor87 said:
I read the whole thread but, I'm still a little hazy. Okay, lemme see if I am getting this right:
Lil Dodge- DD, not technically yours so, functionally no point in talking about.
76 K5- yours, trail rig, intended green sticker rig, never gonna sell
73 K5- yours, current backup DD, intended tow rig?
Is that right?
Close, the 73 k5 is a father/son project completely funded by dad. We (dad) got just about 9k into that thing atm and dad has told me several times i cant sell it until hes dead. And then im not going to sell my first father/son project so. The old girl is stuck with us for life :popcorn:.

My two cents:
As with a lot of others, no way in heck I'd tow a K5 with a K5.
Two reasons:
1. Insurance liability- no way in heck your insurance will cover an accident that you get in if you are towing so high above your vehicles gross combination weight rating, doesn't matter what engine, trans, axles, brakes, whatever, they just won't.
Exception:
IDK about your state BUT, in my state you can get the GVWR and GCWR raised if you show that the chassis has been strengthened sufficiently to handle the revised rates (bear in mind this means pretty much a brand new frame with all new spring mounts plus all the mods you have mentioned. Also, it is by the discretion of the DMV officer inspecting it so, if he feels it doesn't pass muster then, it doesn't).
Answered this earlier in the thread,No way to get around what the paper says.

2. From my experience, towing even with a properly prepared rig can be hairy in bad circumstances. I have a DMAX 2500HD (ext cab shortbed), 20,000lb licensed GCWR (which is the max ball hitch GCWR for it), 9999lb rated trailer that weighs 2000lb empty (four wheel electric brakes with a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller), and a 5500lb K5, this puts my K5 and trailer weight right at 7500lbs which is the limit for my truck when a weight distributing hitch is not run (I don't have one). So, everything is legal and within specs yet, I have still had white knuckle moments with that setup!
A max speed of 55 and often times much much lower when neccessary will be the difference to avoid such hairy conditions. If i do run into them ill have to use a combination of the gas/brake/gearing/steering and dual trailer brakes to get things back under control or i wont and im in for one hell of a ride. Based on some of the storys ive told my dad wheeling i got at least 2 guardian angels working overtime. Lets hope one of em doesnt go on vacation while im towing :haha: .

You say you wheel the 76 right now anyway, but feel the need to back off certain obstacles because it need so take you home. Well, my question is, even if you do all this work to be able to tow it with you 73 (spending a bunch of money in the process),
Answered this earlier, All of the money on the 73 is funded by the bank of dad. Father/son project = Awesome for funding although hes not interested in a father/son KOH buggy project so thats why i work :D.

how are you gonna be saving money for a real towing setup if you are busy breaking and fixing the 76. Why not wheel it easy for a while and save your $ to buy a good setup?
When the 76 k5 is properly built i shouldnt be breaking expensive stuff very often anymore. If things are breaking i obviously am driving it wrong or have found a bad assortment of pieces. Im hoping all of the weak links wil be found in the drivetrain playing with the 76 k5 so when i put em into the buggy and get ready to race ill have less to deal with. Im almost positive that wont happend but its a good thing to hope for :dunno: .

On a separate note, why not sell the 73 to help fund the tow rig?

IDK, to me it seems counter productive to pour a bunch of money into a marginal setup just to hit a few more obstacles a little harder than you do now. I've done plenty of short term thinking like that in the past and I always have ended up regretting it later. :dunno:

Heck, you still get to wheel even now with the current setup so what's the problem? ;)
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gotblazers said:
Answered this earlier in the thread,No way to get around what the paper says. .
Click to expand...

Your missing this part dude. That piece of paper is everything. For no other reason alone. If you can't match what the paper says, there is no reason in hell to do this. Like he said tho if you can get the rating updated after the mods that might be the thing to look in to. I kno most cal dmv's bring the doushe but worth looking in to.
 
A max speed of 55 and often times much much lower when neccessary will be the difference to avoid such hairy conditions. If i do run into them ill have to use a combination of the gas/brake/gearing/steering/ dual trailer brakes/crash to get things back under control or i wont and im in for one hell of a ride. Based on some of the storys ive told my dad wheeling i got at least 2 guardian angels working overtime. Lets hope one of em doesnt go on vacation while im towing
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fixed it for ya....:haha:

Seriously man, unless you plan to tow at 3am, you'll be doing at least 55 or you'll take a Peterbilt up the rear of your K5. This is Cali man, our freeways are packed and we also have a lot of bad stretches that are beat up bad. If you think you are going to have to travel at sub 55mph speeds, I'd seriously consider traveling at oddball times. Leave home around 4am or wait until about 8pm, that way traffic will be much thinner and will provide a safer environment for you. That is what I do when I go on a long trip, I leave at 4 am, towing or not, to beat the commuters before they are out of bed.
 
Smokinthehippies said:
Your missing this part dude. That piece of paper is everything. For no other reason alone. If you can't match what the paper says, there is no reason in hell to do this. Like he said tho if you can get the rating updated after the mods that might be the thing to look in to. I kno most cal dmv's bring the doushe but worth looking in to.
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I'll give it a shot once everythings ready providing theirs no epic fees. Worst than can happen is they say no i guess.

rjfguitar said:
fixed it for ya....:haha:

Seriously man, unless you plan to tow at 3am, you'll be doing at least 55 or you'll take a Peterbilt up the rear of your K5. This is Cali man, our freeways are packed and we also have a lot of bad stretches that are beat up bad. If you think you are going to have to travel at sub 55mph speeds, I'd seriously consider traveling at oddball times. Leave home around 4am or wait until about 8pm, that way traffic will be much thinner and will provide a safer environment for you. That is what I do when I go on a long trip, I leave at 4 am, towing or not, to beat the commuters before they are out of bed.
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I'll do that too. I hate dealing with retarded drivers anyways. For KOH i left at 9pm after work and didnt arrive till 5:30 or so in the morning. I didnt crash till 8 or so pm that day either :doah:. Was going 55 or so the whole way in a convoy with a guy towing his heep on his excursion. We got passed by semi's 3 times though.
 
Other thing to think about when buying new is tax and licensing and all the bs fees. Buying used you don't have those. Might help justify a higher price
That said id still try and negotiate down
 
Sell one Blazer and Buy a CUCV M1008 from 100dollarman.com for a Tow Rig
 
Smokinthehippies said:
Other thing to think about when buying new is tax and licensing and all the bs fees. Buying used you don't have those. Might help justify a higher price
That said id still try and negotiate down
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I didnt realize that, Well lets hope the people sellin me a trailer whoever i go to dont know it either :D.

yellowK20 said:
Sell one Blazer and Buy a CUCV M1008 from 100dollarman.com for a Tow Rig
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Already answered but...
76=wheeler project and only worth 1k with 4k into it + sentimental value
73=Father/son project i cant sell and wouldnt if i could

Not to mention a military rig for a tow rig :eek1:. My dad beat on those ****ers back when he was in the marines and im willing to bet everyone else that drove em did too. I wouldnt get one of those for anything less than a total motor and wiring swap. The wheel base/weight factor is their though. Just couldnt trust em to get me around reliably IMO and 100dollarman marks the hell out of em. Im probably better off bidding on one myself if that was my route. The 6.2 is underpowered like no other but i could live with that if it was reliable although after my last 6.2 experience i dont feel like its all that great of a motor. On my old chevy carbed motors i can pretty much always get it started and get me home, I dont know half a thing about diesels. Maybe when i get the cash someday and can grab a nice diesel ill learn more about em but for now gas motors are my preference.

Most importantly, For the price of an m1008 i can get a CHERRY Burb around here that would be alot nicer to tow/camp with.
 
:eek: I just found a sweeeeeeet tow rig deal by the looks of it
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2239525813.html

3/4 ton seemingly rust free burb under 100k miles and towing package currently running,A/C actually works to :eek: 1400 bucks with room to wiggle. There has to be some huge problem somewhere. I got about 1200 bucks saved for the trailer atm to. This may be worth calling over.

Or hell pick this thing up and give it the transmission i pulled out of the 84 burb i had to trash. Thing had 21k miles on a rebuild :deal:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/cto/2236959837.html

looks just like my baby i had to get rid of :( and its gotta big block :). Swap that over to a dually and itd be sweeeeeeet.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/2235816448.html

I found at least 2 more,All this talk of long wheel bases is rekindling my secret love for burbs :o and if i think about this anymore ill have one picked up by tomorrow night :doah:
 
yellowK20 said:
Come buy my burb lol its got 1-tons now
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That trip would cost as much as the burb :haha:.After my last 6.2 burb experience im sworn off em. And no point when I got so many beautiful rust free old ladys sittin in the sun waiting for a new owner who will love them :(.
 
and as for what Hundy charges....

its a not a bad price if you ever actually been through the bidding process and paperwork and pickup from the Gov auctions it is a major pain in the ass!!! plus all his stuff is good to go.

But a Burb is nice in alot of ways too, thats probally why I have so much crap
 
I like the white one but if you have a solid tranny to use and can swap it out easy. I'd say go offer the red one $400 and see if he bites. That'd be a deal and help you alot
 
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I've been checking craigslist daily for deals and savin up my pennys and i found a few cheap potentials i could afford to pick up right now, Although not much point unless i find a absolutely smokin deal since i could only tow it empty with the heep.

Only worry here is its not registered, Ill have to figure out what that means. Definitley dont want to pick up a stolen trailer by accident and i gotta make sure its got electric brakes or adjust that into the price.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/for/2258878042.html

This one looks like a sweet deal,it cost less and comes with a winch and straps as well as ramps. Although i dont know if its just me or are those rear axles waaaaaaay too far back. Potential to seriously overload the hitch no matter how i load it?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2255337052.html
 
You don't want one with side rails, you can't take them off because they are there for structure, yout truck will not fit inn between them
 
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