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Transfer case options. Doubler or magnum

I will say that my Suburbans massive length has helped me in the doubler/driveshaft department.

I can get away with all 1350 stuff and be ok. But I'm still going to 1410s just to avoid limit strapping it. Plus 1410 stuff is super easy to find in junkyard's around here so there's that as well.
 
mrk5 said:
In considering all the options, don't forget about driveshafts. My buddy Nate is learning this the hard way after putting a Doubler in his K5.
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It's kinda like when people say, "Just LS swap it, you can pick up a used motor for $600 and you're done!" BAHAHAHA....it's always gonna be about 3x more money to do the bigger projects then what you think it will after all the other crap (applies to axle swaps, motor swaps, doubler swaps, cage work, etc.).
 
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Kay86K5 said:
It's kinda like when people say, "Just LS swap it, you can pick up a used motor for $600 and you're done!" BAHAHAHA....it's always gonna be about 3x more money to do the bigger projects then what you think it will after all the other crap (axle swaps, motor swaps, doubler swaps, cage work, etc.).
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Was that pointed at me? Lol
 
Kay86K5 said:
It's kinda like when people say, "Just LS swap it, you can pick up a used motor for $600 and you're done!" BAHAHAHA....it's always gonna be about 3x more money to do the bigger projects then what you think it will after all the other crap (applies to axle swaps, motor swaps, doubler swaps, cage work, etc.).
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He's still learning about fab stuff to. The weekend I helped him fab a crossmember for the Doubler and build new exhaust to fit he had this list of about half a dozen things we were going to get done. I told him "dude, you're going to be lucky if we can get the crossmember and exhaust done only because there are 2 of us working". Normally I'd only plan on getting one of the things done.

skunked said:
snowball......

my front shaft cost as much as my eco box build
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He was quite shocked when I opened his eyes on the cost of 1350 CV shafts.
 
Bent77 said:
:haha:


Ugh hope mine lives, it’s two halves and some pipe
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but you can always cobble something together with the better working angles you have.

mrk5 said:
He was quite shocked when I opened his eyes on the cost of 1350 CV shafts.
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if 1350 scared him he should see what the 1410 HAD shafts run. If he can run 1350 he should look for a couple used stupid duty shafts.
 
I talked him into swapping 56" rear springs in and moving the axle back 4". Then I think he can run single 1410 joints on both front & rear shafts. That's what I did in my K5 and it was okay. With the Doubler he'll be a little shorter than I was on the rear shaft but he trailers his a lot.

I have the 1410 HAD CV in my crew cab, so I was able to scare him even more with that number as well. Figured then he'd feel better about dropping 5 bills on the 1350 CV if that's the route he ends up going.
 
mrk5 said:
I talked him into swapping 56" rear springs in and moving the axle back 4". Then I think he can run single 1410 joints on both front & rear shafts. That's what I did in my K5 and it was okay. With the Doubler he'll be a little shorter than I was on the rear shaft but he trailers his a lot.

I have the 1410 HAD CV in my crew cab, so I was able to scare him even more with that number as well. Figured then he'd feel better about dropping 5 bills on the 1350 CV if that's the route he ends up going.
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if he's not driving it on the road he could also run a tom woods superjoint up front at the t-case.
 
You can take a SD CV apart, and grind it all over the place for clearance. The majority of the problem is in the centering ball mount. Grind it flush with the actual ball thing and you gain more than you would guess. Mine has quite a bit of angle capabilities now.
 
Tom's website says $479 is the base price for a 1350 CV shaft. Don't know what the "base" model covers and if that number is up to date.
 
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